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Old 09.07.2008
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General repair costs?

Hello to all my fellow work horses of the highway.
I am considering a fore into the o/o or independent side of the industry, And while i have done a lot of research on cost in the way of operating as well as maintenance accounts. I have been unable to find even rough estimates on the cost of of rebuilding/repairing engines, transmissions , rear ends,radiator's or re-threading tires. I am sure this is due the vastness of manufactures and repair shops. So instead of calling around to many different shops to get estimates, I thought i should ask you guys what i should be paying.

So here it goes: My grand dad recently passed away and he left me his 97' pete 379 with a Detroit series 60 series and an Eaton 10 speed ( i am not sure about the rear ends). It has been siting for 3 years and because of that i want do do a complete drive train restoration so my plan is to take money out of my savings to accomplish this task.
So my question is can i have the engine completely(out of frame) transmission and the rear ends rebuilt/replaced and also new brakes and tires(rethreads on drives) put on for Under 20 grand??? If not how much more would i have to take out???? I am really serious about repairing this truck, not only because it was my grand dads but it was also the truck i learned to drive on. And i am just a sentimentel fool!

Thank you in advance for any insight....
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  ^ Top   #2  
Old 09.07.2008
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three years is nothing really if the truck was in good running order. What you want could be done but probably not with with an out of frame but there is no reason to pul the motor anything you'd ned done could be done inframe. but you're better off having the truck looked over well, fixing what is recommended and keeping your money as your operating fund. You will burn through that $20k in no time flat
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  ^ Top   #3  
Old 09.07.2008
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[quote=wahwah70;553004]Hello to all my fellow work horses of the highway.
.
So here it goes: My grand dad recently passed away and he left me his 97' pete 379 with a Detroit series 60 series and an Eaton 10 speed ( i am not sure about the rear ends). It has been siting for 3 years and because of that i want do do a complete drive train restoration so my plan is to take money out of my savings to accomplish this task.
So my question is can i have the engine completely(out of frame) transmission and the rear ends rebuilt/replaced and also new brakes and tires(rethreads on drives) put on for Under 20 grand??? If not how much more would i have to take out???? I am really serious about repairing this truck, not only because it was my grand dads but it was also the truck i learned to drive on. And i am just a sentimentel fool!

Well, The out of frame engine o/haul will trash your 20k, the whole thing I would guess. Why out of frame? has it spun a crank bearing, that would be only reason to do this. OIDA had a good article on overhauls a month or three back. Find and read. I was quoted 24K for a full inframe with the longest warrantee they sell last year on my Scaterpillar. At Houston Cat House. A factory sanctioned overhaul is worth the $ if running long. There are Detroit dealerships all over. If it explodes far from home, it makes for a smaller tow bill. My front driver had an overhaul last year, it was really trashed needed gears as wellas bearings and seals, $1800.00. Bearing kit and seals, lots less. I use an independent local shop for these things. He did my radiator too, It must not have been too high cause I don't remember. Talk to guys around your area who own trucks. If they have a mechanic they like they'll usually share. Just bought Steers Friday, BFG 280 in 11R 24.5 $534 each, mounted, balanced, bolted on.Last year in August was last drive rubber, about 360 each, There's been a price increase every quarter since then because of oil price. Call a dealer, shop like you would for an accountant. Interview them. You have cash, you are a good find for any business selling truck service. Act like it, call up ask questions, expect honest answers. Good luck, If you get it going, and find a good place to work, you'll enjoy it.

Dave

Last edited by dangerous dave; 09.07.2008 at 09.32 PM. Reason: misspelling
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  ^ Top   #4  
Old 09.07.2008
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Thanks! for the info!
I assumed that if you wanted to rebuild the whole engine it would be better to have it done out of frame.

The truck was in very good condition when it was parked in my grand dad's barn. He bought it new and took very good care of it.
He parked it when he got sick with the hope's of going back to the road, Sadly he never got the chance...

The only reason i wanted to rebuild every thing now is because i don't wanna have to down the road(literally) and eat even more in to my savings.

Thanks!
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Old 09.08.2008
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I do not know about rebuild and the previous posters knows more than I about it and gave you great advise. As a Child I watched and learn from a guy my father worked for. And he did make money. He would never put rethreads on his truck or trailers. All new. Cost more upfront, but saved more in the long run.
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Old 09.08.2008
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You didn't state how many miles are on current engine/tranny. Mountain Man is right. Find a mechanic you trust and have it looked at. May just need fluids/filters changed, new rubber, batteries. I would check the fuel tanks out real well. No telling what is brewing in there even if it had some type of stabilizer added when parked. Also hoses may need to be replaced. You need to have as much in reserve as you can. You drop 20k and take off you can bet the few things you didn't replace will lay down on you and then you're stuck. You may be able to get it road worthy and inspected for a lot less than you think. Then save all you can for a few months of running so you're ready for THE BIG ONE. Good luck.
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  ^ Top   #7  
Old 09.08.2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Duker View Post
You didn't state how many miles are on current engine/tranny. Mountain Man is right. Find a mechanic you trust and have it looked at. May just need fluids/filters changed, new rubber, batteries. I would check the fuel tanks out real well. No telling what is brewing in there even if it had some type of stabilizer added when parked. Also hoses may need to be replaced. You need to have as much in reserve as you can. You drop 20k and take off you can bet the few things you didn't replace will lay down on you and then you're stuck. You may be able to get it road worthy and inspected for a lot less than you think. Then save all you can for a few months of running so you're ready for THE BIG ONE. Good luck.
Yuppers on that. If the motor is in good shape as far as running goes, I'd just do seals on it. Front (while there examine balancer, the rubber between the outer hub and body can dry rotted andcracked and loose, if it comes off its new radiator time), rear ( while at rearcheck out clutch, less than 60%, replace), Tranny seals, check u-joints for slack, all seals on rears. What used dealers call lot rot sets in on used vehicles that sit for an extended time. The oil seals will leak when you start to drive it again. If it had conventional oil, don't dare switch to synthetic without changing ALL seals. Don't know about Detroit, buttmonkey, Scatapillars are bad about waterpump seal leakage after sitting. Do not change coolant types without a very thoughow flush. Hoses, especially the big ones are not cheap. but if you consider walking to a gettin place and gettin a new one and new coolant, then doin it again a week later when anotherone pops, er uh, well, you get the picture. I had a dum-bass attack earlier this year. Now every hose on the whole bleep truck is new. New policy is if one pops, replace all. All are same age, if one goes, others not far behind. Look carefully at exaust system. Especially flex pipe. A crack under the truck could cause a trip to the morgue instead of waking up and stumbling inside for a cup of coffee. One poster above said no recaps. I agree, at least for me. My business is severe service. If you are going out on pipe line right of ways, drive threw ditches, similar jobs, no recaps. Even on trailer. Ain't no feelin like Petermobeelin! Gitter done and go have fun. Oh, if you could get a job like mine, you could lease on, pick loads off board not going very far at first. Gitter back home and fix what pops up while you were out. As long as you check out all the major stuff before you ever leave out. Good luck.

DDave
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  ^ Top   #8  
Old 09.08.2008
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My thanks to all.
As far as miles, the best i can assume is 1.5 million(OD says 530,000).
My dad and i have already replaced all the filters the fuel & coolant lines. I drained the little oil it had and replaced it with oil i bought from the company i currently drive for. If my memory serves me when he parked it he only put enough oil in it to coat every thing and then shut it down... I took it out a couple days ago and the engine was strong, the breaks are bad( i saw my life flash before my eyes, bad) and second gear is going out of the transmission, The drive tires could probably pass a DOT( put i won't pull a load with them down a road with your family or mine)
Right now my biggest concern is the brakes, tires and the tranny , i haven't inspected the rears in detail put they appeared to be fine when i drove it,but who knows how they will react with 40,000lbs on them.
I have been a company driver for around 8 years, but i confess i don't know that much about the repair side of the industry. I've asked the guys in shop where i work some questions, But be perfectly honest i wouldn't let them but oil in my four wheeler let alone trust them to give me accurate info on a big truck..
Thanks again!
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Old 09.08.2008
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personally I would run the motor, fix the brakes and yank that whole tranny out in favore of a 13, 15 or 18 speed. unfortunatly that would cst more because you'd have to pay the core charge since you don't have a 13, 15 r 18 to trade in on it
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  ^ Top   #10  
Old 09.08.2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MedicineMan View Post
personally I would run the motor, fix the brakes and yank that whole tranny out in favore of a 13, 15 or 18 speed. unfortunatly that would cst more because you'd have to pay the core charge since you don't have a 13, 15 r 18 to trade in on it
Yuppers, love my 18, again choose close loads out 'n back, fix something when you get home.
Cheers, have fun DDave
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