Engine Sludge

I would have the oil sampled asap. I'm guessing the sludge is probably soot. Once you have the results, it will point you in a better direction. You may have to run a shorter drain interval (5-6000 miles) to clean out the engine if your company ran the wrong oil in it.

Just my opinion, but I would check out synthetics. I run Schaffers and have excellent results with protection, fuel mpg increase (about .2), and you can get free oil samples with extended drain intervals.

 

Ditto on Schaeffer's. This is a very high quality oil and it has a very good price for a great quality synthetic. You will have to locate a dealer that will have Schaeffer ship it to you direct. Usually will have to order $300 or more of the products to get free shipping. When you consider the cost of the product, the quality, and the free shipping, you will be very hard pressed to find any other synthetic you can buy at a better price. In fact, the price is not much more than buying the regular oils off the shelf at any truck stop. Of course we are talking Schaeffer bulk price compared to a single gallon purchase at a truck stop. As with any synthetic, you will experience easier starting and usually a little better fuel economy. Don't expect unrealistic improvements, but .2 mpg or better improvement is not uncommon.

The quality rating of Schaeffer is very high. Do a google on "Bob Is The Oil Guy" and check out the site and forums. There is some very knowledgable people on that site, and they have a very good regard for Schaeffer products. There is also a Schaeffer sponser on the site that will get you any product delivered at a good price.

You will not experience any "sludge problem" with Schaeffer oil, and with oil analysis confirmation, you will probably be able to extend your drains. I would recommend you install a good bypass oil filter to really get the full benefit and cost effectiveness of using a synthetic. Then you can really extend your drains and actually save more money using the synthetic than using a standard oil.

The off the shelf oils are good. Not implying that those who don't run a synthetic are stupid. But, as with most things, you get what you pay for. Even the so-called cheap oil at Walmart will work, but, done right, a synthetic will more than be cost effective and provide the best protection. After all, we are talking about a very expensive engine in a class 8 truck..... not a cheap throw away engine in a passenger car.

Most "sludge" appearance is a soot buildup in the oil. Nothing can be done about the soot except keeping it to a minimum by using a bypass filter setup. The emissions standards are to blame, now you have to counter the effect by getting it out of the oil as much as possible. A typical engine will have a soot level in the oil at 20,000 miles of about 2-3%. With a bypass filter, the soot level rarely rises above 1% and often will stay around .5% and that is even with 40,000 or more on the oil. All that is needed is to change out the bypass filter on schedule and sample the oil. The oil analysis will let you know when the oil needs changed. Be sure to use a good Oil Analysis lab, not one of the sample machines like are used at Speedco and other places. WearCheck is a very good lab and the sample prices are very good.

 

My own opinion.....its expensive but well worth it....


motorkote is the best of the best

 

If you get by a Speedco, run it in there and ask them to do the oil analysis. It will only take a few minutes and it doesn't cost that much, $20 or so. Well worth it, especially with all of this global warming we are experiencing. Better to catch something bad going on in a warm building than on the side of the road.

Mike

 

And it doesn't sound like an oil "brand" problem. Maybe the wrong viscosity, but it sounds like the OP is smarter than that. Maybe something to do with the particulate crap on these new trucks. I would want to see what is floating around in that oil that would make it sludge. Like PT said, it sounds like soot, and allot of it.

Mike

 

Will work in a pinch, but a good lab is the only way to go for a solid analysis on the oil. Also, WearCheck will do a Level II analysis (what you would want for extended drains) for $18. For a "quickie" analysis, the machines will give you a ball park estimate on the oil quality and soot, but they sometimes have problems giving good results on synthetics due to the PAO or ester content of various synthetics. A lab will take into account the oil brand and viscosity as well as the particular engine manufacturer and model. They have extensive data bases on particular engines and oils and even what each engine oil analysis should look like based on the life of the engine. The machines tend to be somewhat "generic" and the same oil will show different results on different machines. Also, the labs will keep a running record on your engine and compare the analysis results to each other and catch a pattern developing or a sudden problem.

 

Sure, all well and good. But Speedco can get him in the ballpark immediately. He doesn't have to wait for a sample bottle to be mailed out, or find that one shop that may have the bottles, etc. He can pull right in and have an answer immediately. And they do input the engine model, oil type and viscosity, mileage, etc. Speedco's machines are also using a data base. And not to get into a fight regarding Speedco's machine. Not my intent to argue who has the better this or that. I offered up a quick and hassel free way to get that oil anylised.

It sounds like there is something going on in that engine. Like I stated above, I would not want to be stuck on the side of the road when I could have done a simple test that is readily available out here. Even it it is not the very "best" place to test it. As crawling under a truck to get an oil sample is not my idea of fun. Especially in this weather.

Mike

 

Think that is why I said it will "work in a pinch". Just outlining the various issues with relying on the quick lube machines for longer periods of time.

Oh Well...... each of us must live within our own comfort level.

 

My apologies for coming across as an arse.

Mike