HHO Fuel Cells

[goldenequity]

ok... what is the output of your HHO cell(s) in LPM?

[violation_rollin]

Golden, thank you for your indepth explanation from my earlier question. Your experience here continues to steer me. For a minute there I thought your were going to outline covalent banana bonds...hehe. But I digress, hell, I'm only a truck driver, what do I know...
Freddy, once you determine what your LPM out is, also check if your water temp is in excess of 115 F. If so, try bubbling the HHO gas through a coil of Brake fluid before it is delivered into the air intake. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic and will remove any vapor being carried forward with your gas. Works for me.

Good job guys keep it up.

[goldenequity]

Good advice Violation and thx.
Freddy... none of the below would help with mpg issues but I post it nonetheless in case you don't have it tucked away somewhere.
------------------------------------------------------------

From the 1994 Dodge Ram Service manual

For 1994-1996 Trucks

Earlier 2nd Gen Trucks Don't give you the P-codes they use a series of flashes

Stored diagnostic codes can be displayed by turning the "ignition" key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON Within three seconds. The fault codes will flash on the "CHECK ENGINE" light located at about the 8:00 position on the tachometer face.
This procedure works for the 94-96 12 Valve engines.
The 97-98 12 valve and the ISB all require the DRB diagnostic tool to obtain trouble codes.

As an example, a 23 code would be indicated by FLASH, FLASH, PAUSE, FLASH, FLASH, FLASH. Multiple codes may be displayed, and the sequence always ends with 55. Green codes will light the CHECK ENGINE lamp when the engine is running.

11 No crank signal detected during cranking
12 Battery was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles (Resets after 50)
15 No vehicle speed/distance signal while driving
23 Intake manifold air temp sensor voltage too high or too low
24 Throttle position sensor voltage too high or too low (automatic only)
33 An open or shorted condition detected in the AC clutch relay circuit
34 Open or short in the Speed control solenoid circuits or Speed control switch voltage too high or too low
37 Open or short in the Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT circuit or Voltage high or low at transmission Temperature sensor
41 An open or shorted condition detected in the alternator field control circuit
42 An open or shorted condition detected in the Auto Shutdown Relay circuit
44 An open or shorted condition detected in the engine coolant temp sensor circuit or A problem exists in the PCM battery temperature / voltage circuit
45 An open or shorted condition detected in the overdrive solenoid circuit
46 Battery charging system voltage too high
47 Battery charging system voltage too low
53 Internal PCM circuitry or communication failure
55 End of sequence. Last code sent to indicate the end of the codes.
62 SPI miles not being updated as vehicle travels
63 Unsuccessful attempt to write to EEPROM by the PCM -

[Freddy]

...and I've already lost 5 pounds off my waistline! But seriously, I have an 80 lb bag of the stuff and it's the dust you've got to watch for.
Anyways, I run it 1.6 lpm # 35 amps. I can take it much higher but when 1/2 inch stainless steel terminals get over 270 degrees you begin to have a problem. I don’t have an electrolyte temperature problem because it’s water cooled and controlled by a thermostat. As for gas temperature, it's a few degrees greater then ambient after being piped through 15 feet of hose and the condensation chamber and return line takes care of the vapor. Something like brake fluid could be effective but ultimately would not give us the “duty cycle” we are looking for.

Are you sure that’s the service manual for a dodge equipped with a Cummins? They didn’t put PCM on a 5.9 till 98.5. you might be looking at the manual for a gasser.

[Freddy]

Come to think of it that truck does have a PCM it's just doesn't interface with the engine.

[goldenequity]

Come to think of it that truck does have a PCM it's just doesn't interface with the engine.

If it has the PCM.... what is the point of having it if it doesn't interface with the engine?? I would check for codes and try it I think.
anyway... if it does, I'd look for error codes #23 (MAF) and #44 (engine coolant).... just a thot!

btw.... has anybody else noticed that this thread is being "pinged" by Hy-Drive (canadian HHO company)?
hhh-m-m-m-mmmm....... they're all about trading up their stock.. etc.
I'm not sure their product is all that impressive.... don't really know though...
but they've been going after the tractor-trailer market right from the beginning.
Anybody own one or have first hand experience/knowledge about their unit?
Just curious.

[violation_rollin]

Regarding the Hy-Drive.

They were mentioned in an earilier posting from a bobtail member, Wannadirveatruck, and it was the first time that I had heard of them. Nevertherless, I wouldn't blame them for listening in. This has become a firebed of tech talk on the subject.

On that note, I need some help with my truck. It has started running very irregular. The computer signaled that an injector had failed. We replaced the injector and everything has gone back to normal, but we have sent the injector out for analysis and are awaiting results before going back to HHO.

For those out there who are running their "Big Truck" on HHO, my question is this. Where do you have the gas ported into the air intake. The debate in our garage is weather or not to go through the Air to Air on the negative pressure side of the turbo, or to stay on the positive side where it is. The thought is that by moving it we could help dissipate any potential moisture being carried forward.

Any thoughts on the matter would be appreciated

Thanks, Violation

[JMF2479]

Originally Posted by JMF2479

Dont buy that hy-drive! I called them months ago and they wanted $12000!!! And said you will get 5% increase. WOW!!!! Rip off!
You can buy an Apu of better yet buy a portable generator with portable AC and Heater and be at 1000$. Slow down your speed(free) you save $11k.

Buy a pittsburgh power muffler $160 .25mpg(there's 5%)

Like I said on page 6.

About moisture in air cooler, mine runs fine ported right before turbo sucks in air. A little moisture should be fine. There's moisture In air already.

[violation_rollin]

The Boss's first concern was HHO concentration buildup in the air cooler when we first started this. He didn't want to see the front of the truck blown off. That's why I've spent alot of time overcoming the turbo pressure on the other side. But compressed gas likes to revert back to water, hence my biggest problem, and now I've got an injector out. My argument is to switch to the otherside and continue on.

I'd like to post a video of this from my computer, but all the videos I see here are from Utube links. Does anyone know how to attach a video file?

[violation_rollin]

Originally Posted by JMF2479

Like I said on page 6.

About moisture in air cooler, mine runs fine ported right before turbo sucks in air. A little moisture should be fine. There's moisture In air already.

JMF, What year is your Rig???

Does it have an EGR, and have you had any problems with your Turbo by going in that way. The guys in the shop are concerned about any possible wear/corrision on the turbo viens. We welcome your suggestions.

I've run a 2005 Columbia 14liter Detroit 60 series. By the way, they are cool with the moisture content issue. The biggest concern now is the turbo.

Thanks, Violation