With aerodynamics of todays cars, it has been shown that over 45mph, the air drag from windows down uses more gas than having windows up with the A/C on. Speed, acceleration style, and then air pressure in tires, have biggest impact on gas mileage.

There is no Catalytic converter as it has an aftermarket 4" system. But you were right I did a little more research and found out about the PCV and went and looked at it and the hose had gotten kinked during the install so i fixed it and problem solved.

Thank you very much.

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2004 Kenworth T800
Red 60" aerodyne flat top sleeper

Sorry I didn't see your post sooner, Yukon.

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You sure got that right, semi-nutz.

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My friend asked me to drive her car ..she said it was wandering.... and at about 65mph it did a slight bit... no shuddering just moving...her tires are balanced and they have been rotated and there is air in them i did that myself and checked what the lbs would be........ any idea what i should tell her? and how to fix that? if its expensive ..... or not?

I have forgotten to check this thread for questions.

I would recommend having the front suspension and steering components checked to see if something is worn, if the front end checks out OK I would recommend having an alignment done to make sure it is within specifications.
As far as expense goes, depends on what the problem ends up being. Some parts can be pretty pricey to replace.

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Year/make/model?

As Mastertech stated, have the steering and suspension checked out by a professional...not a week goes by that someone comes into my shop for an alignment because "my mechanic" put some new parts on the front end...but failed to recheck his work and let the car go with more bad parts! If I ever find "my mechanic", he's gonna get it, lol.

Alignment, worn part(s), and improper air pressures can cause a wandering feel...also, I don't know what it is, but many Firestone brand tires like to wear more in the center rather than even all across, even with proper air pressures maintained...if the center is worn far more than the edges, it could also cause a wandering feel.

This isn't a mechanical problem, but I need direction from someone.

I had my 1990 Subaru Loyale with 136,000 (?) miles on it at my mechanic's a month or so ago for a "shot" of something to smooth out a sticky lifter.

When I picked up the car, Wayne (my mechanic) told me that my faithful Little Red will probably not pass inspection next August. It hit me like a ton of bricks. Little Red is the most reliable and maintenance-free car I've ever owned and I foresaw another 100,000 miles or so on it. Aside from some rust at the one wheel well -- which I had planned to have repaired in the spring -- that car has not cost me hardly anything over it's lifetime.

Wayne explained that the car is rusting underneath. (This is also what ended the usable life of my prior vehicle, a 1977 VW Rabbit. My then little boy stepped into the back seat and his little leg went through the floor and brake line.)

Not wanting to part with Little Red, I told Wayne I'd probably contact a body shop about repairing the area that is rusting. His response was that a body shop isn't going to want to deal with something like that... and suggested that I find someone to "patch it up" over the winter.

I don't have any auto body "patch up" friends. If I can't use Bond-O, I'm screwed.

Is it true that a body shop wouldn't want to deal with something like this... or was Wayne thinking from a cost perspective? I'd probably be willing to spend up to $750 on the car without too much thought. Despite it's age and mileage, it's just that good of a car.

Any thoughts from folks here?

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I think Wayne was thinking about both...using a cost disadvantage for you as a reason to keep you from wanting to get it fixed

For example (since I don't do body work)...car comes in for a fuel leak...it's got a rusted fuel line near he fuel filter and gas tank...there's also a few weak spots in the floorboards, and the steel brake lines also look like they're gonna start to leak soon.

So, do I repair the fuel leak and be done with it? No. First, I explain the fuel leak...the entire line is in poor shape, no way to cut and flare a patch of new line...the line is rusted solid to the filter, so it needs a filter...problem is, the line on the other side of the filter to the fuel sender (in the rotted gas tank) will also need replaced...and down the line, the sender needs replaced because, while it's not yet leaking, it will once I touch it...same for the gas tank that needs removes to replace the sender.

So, a repair that would run maybe $200 for an isolated area of rust will now be upwards of $1000...

If they are prepared to spend that money (if nothing is salvageable), then it's on to the brake lines...they are run in the same area as the fuel lines...and will likely break while replacing the fuel line, just from disturbing them...the bleeder screws may snap off of the rear calipers from rust, since they will need bled afterwards...the aluminum abs assy. may need replaced when the steel fittings are removed to replace the brake lines that were disturbed...steel and aluminum don't like each other, and corrode nicely over time. Now, our simple fuel leak may have an addl. $1000 in brake lines and abs unit.

Then there's the weak, rusty floorboards...no holes yet, but you could take a screwdriver and poke one if you wanted to.

This is all going on under a car valued at $1200.

Sorry for the lengthy explanation, but this is the reality of mother nature...there comes a point when it's not cost effective to repair anything...it arrives at the same point the a technician doesn't want to work on the rusty car, for fear of "collateral damage".

It's also the point where good morals overtake greed. Their money would be much better off in purchasing a $2000 car, rather than trying to keep this one up. I'll gladly tell someone it's not worth it, at the expense of a few dollars that paycheck...but now I'm trusted, and I have a customer for life.

Thanks, beehive, for your response. It makes sense now. What was clear to Wayne was not even a vague thought in my non-mechanic's mind -- that by attempting to repair one rusted area, I would very likely be opening a can of worms.

Wayne's a man of few words, but he's as honest as the day is long. I appreciate that you took the time to spell it all out for me. I needed that because it will be very difficult to part with my Little Red -- we've had some fine adventures together in those 18 years.

I guess it's like he said -- "Little lady, cars don't last forever, ya' know..." <sigh>

Thanks again, beehive.

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