Originally Posted by Ducks

Thanks, beehive, for your response. It makes sense now. What was clear to Wayne was not even a vague thought in my non-mechanic's mind -- that by attempting to repair one rusted area, I would very likely be opening a can of worms.

Wayne's a man of few words, but he's as honest as the day is long. I appreciate that you took the time to spell it all out for me. I needed that because it will be very difficult to part with my Little Red -- we've had some fine adventures together in those 18 years.

I guess it's like he said -- "Little lady, cars don't last forever, ya' know..." <sigh>

Thanks again, beehive.

Originally Posted by beehive

I think Wayne was thinking about both...using a cost disadvantage for you as a reason to keep you from wanting to get it fixed

For example (since I don't do body work)...car comes in for a fuel leak...it's got a rusted fuel line near he fuel filter and gas tank...there's also a few weak spots in the floorboards, and the steel brake lines also look like they're gonna start to leak soon.

So, do I repair the fuel leak and be done with it? No. First, I explain the fuel leak...the entire line is in poor shape, no way to cut and flare a patch of new line...the line is rusted solid to the filter, so it needs a filter...problem is, the line on the other side of the filter to the fuel sender (in the rotted gas tank) will also need replaced...and down the line, the sender needs replaced because, while it's not yet leaking, it will once I touch it...same for the gas tank that needs removes to replace the sender.

So, a repair that would run maybe $200 for an isolated area of rust will now be upwards of $1000...

If they are prepared to spend that money (if nothing is salvageable), then it's on to the brake lines...they are run in the same area as the fuel lines...and will likely break while replacing the fuel line, just from disturbing them...the bleeder screws may snap off of the rear calipers from rust, since they will need bled afterwards...the aluminum abs assy. may need replaced when the steel fittings are removed to replace the brake lines that were disturbed...steel and aluminum don't like each other, and corrode nicely over time. Now, our simple fuel leak may have an addl. $1000 in brake lines and abs unit.

Then there's the weak, rusty floorboards...no holes yet, but you could take a screwdriver and poke one if you wanted to.

This is all going on under a car valued at $1200.

Sorry for the lengthy explanation, but this is the reality of mother nature...there comes a point when it's not cost effective to repair anything...it arrives at the same point the a technician doesn't want to work on the rusty car, for fear of "collateral damage".

It's also the point where good morals overtake greed. Their money would be much better off in purchasing a $2000 car, rather than trying to keep this one up. I'll gladly tell someone it's not worth it, at the expense of a few dollars that paycheck...but now I'm trusted, and I have a customer for life.

Originally Posted by smurf-316

I agree with beehive.
However I would have a person who does the Inspection to have a look at it and tell you if it would pass. It is possible to have a welder to just spot weld a few pieces of sheet metal from the inside of the car if it's ONLY the floorboards that are really bad. Just peel the carpet back and then put it back in place and you will never know the difference.
I did this to my sisters Dodge Omni and she drove it for 4 more years before the engine blew.
But if you have lots of rust damage under the car, then like beehive said, it's probably not gonna be worth it.

Originally Posted by Mastertech

That's a good explanation...I am SO GLAD I rarely see rusted up vehicles like that in my shop. The few I have seen, and worked on, have been a PITA!

Originally Posted by Ducks

Thanks for your suggestion, Smurf! Wayne not only maintains my car, but inspects it as well. After reading your idea about spot welding some sheet metal to the floorboards, I think I'll call Wayne to ask the extent of the rust damage. I'll also ask if having the spot-welded sheet metal is sufficient to pass inspection. If it appears to be a workable solution, I might go for it. I appreciate your thread of hope.



What caught me by surprise on this was that aside from perhaps a 2" round rust spot at the one wheel well, the car doesn't appear rusted at all. It's all dimpled, kinda golf ball style, since a hail storm in 1995... but it's a clean-looking, well-maintained car. In fact, I just replaced the door speakers about two years ago as the original ones had turned to powder.

Man, I hate to see a reliable, smooth running little car like that wind up in a parts yard. And sentimental old fool that I am, I'm gonna bawl my eyes out. It's silly, I know. But I don't handle these things well.

Originally Posted by Ducks

Thanks, beehive, for your response. It makes sense now. What was clear to Wayne was not even a vague thought in my non-mechanic's mind -- that by attempting to repair one rusted area, I would very likely be opening a can of worms.

Wayne's a man of few words, but he's as honest as the day is long. I appreciate that you took the time to spell it all out for me. I needed that because it will be very difficult to part with my Little Red -- we've had some fine adventures together in those 18 years.

I guess it's like he said -- "Little lady, cars don't last forever, ya' know..." <sigh>

Thanks again, beehive.

Originally Posted by Mastertech

That's a good explanation...I am SO GLAD I rarely see rusted up vehicles like that in my shop. The few I have seen, and worked on, have been a PITA!

Originally Posted by Mastertech

It's not silly at all....heck I have lots of customers that get attached to their cars and will have me keep them on the road at all costs.

Originally Posted by beehive

Most folks don't wax the underside of their vehicles...underbody washes don't do any good, it needs protection...I've used Eastwood's Anti-Rust on the past several cars my wife and I have owned...it's essentially a DIY Ziebart (or Waxoyl in Europe). It works wonders.

Originally Posted by Ducks

I never know you COULD wax the underside of a vehicle.

Originally Posted by Ducks

Question: Do you apply the Eastwood's Anti-Rust regardless of whether or not the car is manufacturer/dealer undercoated? And is it effective being applied to used cars (since Yours Truly will probably be buying used cars from here on in...)?

Originally Posted by beehive

Sorry...sarcasm

Originally Posted by Mastertech

I have forgotten to check this thread for questions.

I would recommend having the front suspension and steering components checked to see if something is worn, if the front end checks out OK I would recommend having an alignment done to make sure it is within specifications.
As far as expense goes, depends on what the problem ends up being. Some parts can be pretty pricey to replace.