tips/tricks: loading a car in a kentucky drop deck moving trailer

Discussion in 'Car Hauler and Auto Carrier Trucking Forum' started by mugurpe, Dec 28, 2014.

  1. mugurpe

    mugurpe Medium Load Member

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    May 5, 2013
    Arlington, MA
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    hey folks, I've got a drop deck van trailer (kentucky) and a set of split melcher ramps and the appropriate car hauling straps to buckle a car into the logistics posts on said trailer. I've seen it done roughly in a youtube video and I've got plenty of experience loading up all sorts of other stuff, been a mover 12+ years. Any tips or tricks on loading cars? strapping them in? best practices? common rookie mistakes? I won't be doing it often, but I'd rather not learn the hard way what not to do.

    Thanks
     
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  3. brian991219

    brian991219 Road Train Member

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    Lords Valley, PA
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    Make sure your ramps are secure, last thing you want to do is have the ramps slip when you are driving up them. If the car is low profile you may have to use some wood to make a short transition from the ground to your ramps, watch bumper and exhaust clearances. Depending on your size you may have to load the car slightly off-center so you can squeeze out the door, or you may even have to climb out the window. I would use a moving pad between the door and the trailer wall or window opening to prevent damage to the door. Make sure to strap the wheels securely, pulling both front and rearward, maybe even use some wood dunnage and tie that to the floor in front and rear of the wheels as chocks. If you don't secure all 4 wheels the car may bounce around and slide inside your trailer, think about keeping the car from moving in any direction. Of course, be sure to inspect the car very well for damages and note them before loading and make sure someone is there to inspect the car upon delivery.
     
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  4. lasvegasmover

    lasvegasmover Bobtail Member

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    Apr 4, 2014
    las vegas nv
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    when i ran triple drops and 45ft drop trailers i use to just spend 50-60 bucks on a flat bed wrecker and drop pad bombs and corgo bars 24 yrs no claims on cars
     
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  5. mugurpe

    mugurpe Medium Load Member

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    Arlington, MA
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    brian: I saw someone use some hook-ended 1" cam straps, one hook at the bottom of the melcher ramp, the other end on the ICC bumper of the trailer to keep it from kicking out, looked smart, that the sort of thing you're suggesting?

    lasvegasmover: so you didn't ramp the cars in? just called a tow company to pop them in for you? no straps securing them, just those aluminum e-track load bars? What's a "pad bomb", that's new lingo to me, I assume you just mean bundles of folded pads between the bumpers and the walls/bars?

    do you guys check the trunk/glovebox/etc to make sure there's nothing crazy going on in there (fire-arms, grenades, cans of gasoline, animals, etc)?
    do you have the customer run the tank below 1/4?

    thanks for the info, I like to look like I know what I'm doing even when I'm doing it the first time. Gonna load up my own car next week and go for a drive so I'll have done it once before I do a customers'
     
  6. brian991219

    brian991219 Road Train Member

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    Lords Valley, PA
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    Yes, something like the strap to the ICC bar to secure the ramp. As far as the fuel, I don't really car how much is in the car, and yes, check the vehicle for other items. You have an advantage over us regular car haulers as we can't haul household goods so the car has to be completely devoid of non car items, plus we like it that way for weight, 10 cars adds up quickly especially with a 40k unladen weight on our trucks. For you, check for extra items so you can manifest them as extra cargo and charge accordingly.

    lasvegasmover has a good point about using a local tow company to load/unload, this is really easy and fairly cheap, sometimes better than building ramps. It is also advisable to have another professional they to help, do not let the customer help you load, your insurance will not cover an accident. I can't speak for him, but I think he is talking about using load bars as wheel chocks in front and behind each axle to secure the car, I have seen some freight guys do it that way, and if you have a length issue with your drop in the trailer you can build a level platform for the car with load bars and wood.

    It may be a good idea for you to pickup a portable jumpstart box from a auto parts store or even a cheap one from Harbor Freight, last thing you want to do is have a car in your trailer that you are counting on starting to drive out and it have a dead battery in transit. They range from $60 up to $200, I have one in my car hauler and one in each of my personal vehicles, they are handy to have even if you don't haul cars.
     
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  7. lasvegasmover

    lasvegasmover Bobtail Member

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    Apr 4, 2014
    las vegas nv
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    i just used a flat bed tow for the loading i always put my cars in backwards for a few feasons if the battery died it was easier to get to and easier unloading and yed pad bombs are rooled pads put buy each wheel
     
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