Stryker 955HPC?

To quote Professor Henry Higgins, "By Jove, I think she's got it!" (Kindly excuse the obviously incorrect personal pronoun.)
Although if the K40 pair seems to be tuned correctly now and works well, you can likely leave it in place safely. My personal preference is for a single antenna in most installations, and use the general rule that the longer the antenna at resonance, the better it will perform (because coils don't radiate; they merely allow antennas to be shorter, but it's "non-coil" length that actually works as the antenna).

Re: coax length question, I'll couch the answer with a set of caveats that must be satisfied to be able to give my blanket answer. The antenna must be tuned ("resonant") when metered at its feedpoint, with a really short length of coax (just long enough to get the tech and his/her/its meter out of the antennas's field; the coax must have the same characteristic impedance as the antenna, and be what the radio expects to see at its output -- we generally assume 50 ohms for all three. So, given those caveats:
The coax proper length is that length that will reach from the radio's connector to the antenna's feedpoint..... plus *I* personally add several inches at each end to allow for putting a meter in line for tests, and for replacing one or the other of the coax's end connectors after the inevitable hundreds of fiddling around with things by the owner, swapping things in & out, etc. If there's no slack at either end, there's nothing left to put new connectors onto.

An operator who uses a single frequency, and who is able to accurately measure the length of the coax, including properly-installed connectors at both ends and figuring in the velocity factor, can use a half-wavelength of coax to accurately show the same VSWR at the radio end of the coax as it is at the antenna end. But only at that one frequency; move off a couple of channels, and you need a new length of coax. But start out with an antenna that's resonant in the middle of the frequency range that you need, then just run enough coax to reach your radio (with that little bit of spare for new connectors eventually) and you'll be fine. No sense buying a bunch more coax that will turn into a rattle above the headliner or roof pillars. The difference in signal loss at CB frequencies over an extra 10 or 12 feet of any coax larger than about RG-174 won't make any difference, but if you get to where you're also using VHF or UHF (or higher), loss figures go up quickly with extra length.

But if you can make the antenna coax run with 9 feet, I'd suggest using 10 or 11 feet, with the actual left over tucked in at the ends, rather than used up in a big lazy "S" in the middle, so it's accessible when needed. The rest can be either cut off, it it comes in a kit, and used for a jumper by putting connectors on it, or just not bought in the first place, if you get to buy it by the foot.

I'd say you nailed the essence of my rather long, wandering narrative; kudos for being able to boil it down to the essentials. Remember that the antenna system will have a greater effect on both the transmit and receive performance than any other component or fixture in your kit. I get through to a lot of stations by a lot of patient listening and timing of my calls, rather than brute force, but if I were driving at the same time, I probably wouldn't have the luxury of that amount of patience.

Good luck with it all, and ask away if any of it is still foggy.

73

 

You can take a regular stock radio to a tech that knows what hes is doing and make it loud and clear, without using a amp or a 10 meter radio. Problem is most of the guys tweeking radios have no idea what they are doing.

Loud and clear does not need to splatter all over the band, it just needs to be tuned correctly, maybe changing a couple of diodes, transistors, and a resistor or two, plus adding a good mic Roadking or equal. Good antennas need not kill you either, My personal favorite is a Monkey Made good braodband but for straight 27mhz use a 5' Francis or firestick have always performed well. Proper soldering and grounding as well as securing a positive connection with enough current available all go into the mix. But you really do not need a amp for truck to truck talking.

 

SR-955HPC of the best Stryker product in market.We have been know for SR-955HPC in all ham radio dealers in usa but this is not it.We are on peak across the global with all amateur radio dealers.
Stryker SR-955HPC 10 Meter Amateur Radio Important Features

High Power – The SR-955HPC is uses four FQP13N10 mosfet transistors that produce 70+ watts PEP. If you want be heard, the SR-955HPC has the power required to do some serious talking.
you can search it from stryker radio.

For further detail please visit the source website http://strykerradios.com/find-store/

 

You can never go wrong with a cobra 29 with a 100 watt upgrade. get a good mic and the right antennas for your rig and your golden.

Cost, about $250 for the radio new, used about $150. Mic about $50.00, Antenna's $50.00.

The number one mistake people make is buying the most expensive antenna they can find. can't tell you how many monkey mades I've seen on Kenworths T-680's. It's the wrong antenna for that truck. You'll get out good in front of you but people behind you won't hear you, and you won't hear them. A 4.5 to 5' francis will out perform it, for a lot cheaper. plus people don't steal them as much as MM's

There is no "Best antenna out there" it's all about getting the "RIGHT" antenna for your application.

For most modern over the road trucks. "I'm not saying all so don't flame me" but for most the tallest Francis that won't clip bridges is the best deal.

 

Know in all of the Ham Radio Dealers in the USA? Really? All Amateur radio dealers that sell real Amateur radios would not sell such JUNK! And get hit with a huge fine by the FCC. They are Illegal to sell in the USA. So you if you want a REAL Ham radio spend about $100 more and get the 100 watt Alinco DX-SR8T. The Alinco DX-SR8T covers 160 to 10 meters in SSB, CW, AM and FM.

 

Most REAL amateur radio dealers not only *may* not "know" about such radios, but will actively SHUN them. While such radios as Connex, Stryker, et al, certainly "work" on the 10 Meter band, they are certainly are NOT up to the standards of the discerning amateur radio operator. Some dealers *may* call themselves "amateur radio dealers", but they most certainly are NOT! Those who deal in the so-called "10 Meter 'amateur' radios" are after one thing: the dollars that come from the illegal CB crowd. Worse, these are usually the ones who do the "snip & clip" mods to make 'em "loud 'n proud" so craved by that same bunch that does not care if they interfere with other users. Indeed, the more interference they can cause, to their minds, the better, for this makes them king of an imaginary hill. The same dealers also promote the idea of "extra" channels, of which there are NO such thing. Again, for those who have no compunction as to where they operate, this is supposed to be a plus. The odd thing is, there are 40 channels, most of whom go begging, while people congregate on one or two, then claim they "need" to go onto them "quiet" channels to talk.

Most of the popular CB radios, the 40 channels ones, are quite capable right out of the box. They DO what they were designed to do! People buy cars every day, drive them off the lot without a problem. Do you have someone "peak and tune" your new car right after you get it home? NO! If it didn't perform right, and had to be "tuned", you'd be MAD. But then there's a warranty. So must radios be "peaked & tuned", usually right after purchase and and at additional cost? People, driven by the "mo' power, mo' watts, mo' modulation, mo' channels" myth have been taught by these crafty dealers to believe that their radio simply must be "peaked and tuned" after having already spent several hundred bucks!! Why is it that REAL amateur radios rarely have to be "peaked & tuned". They are ready to go right out of the box, with the rare exception. Beware of these so-called "amateur radio" dealers who sell the "10 meter 'amateur' radios", too!

 

Gadfly you should have made comment on post #14. And not me. I was only commenting on his post. That says all Amateur radio dealers sell Strykers. Most Export radios only go to 28.305 Mhz. And only have AM/FM. No SSB no CW. So they really are not for 10 meters. Also I see every post by one person is only selling Stryker radios.

 

Heck, I was AGREEING with you!

 

I'm sorry Gadfly.