For anyone else reading this topic, when you have excessively high SWR readings [3.0 and higher], you should be looking to increase the size of your antenna ground plane. Your objective is to interconnect multiple large metal components into one larger antenna ground plane.
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.First, you BOND the antenna mount to the door using a SHORT ground strap. Next, you bond the door to the chassis door frame. Then, bond the chassis door frame to the frame.
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.Do not run a long wire from the antenna mount directly to the frame because that wire can act like an additional antenna. And, it does not include the door and cab chassis as part of the antenna ground plane.
Antenna tuning question
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by dino360, Mar 2, 2014.
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Thanks for the info. If the bed of my truck is grounded by the metal screws where it bolts to the frame should I still add more grounding straps?
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After I tune my swr do I switch it to s/rf for normal everyday use?
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I'll bet a dollar if you mount your antenna on the tool box you never will be able to get a decent SWR. It looks good, but it isn't an easy location to get a decent SWR. Now if you use some braided bonding straps to the bed, then bond the bed to the cab, you might luck out. I gave up on my 2000 Sonoma and drilled a hole in the center of the roof. No more SWR problems. It also had a good SWR on the driver's side front fender, opposite of the AM/FM radio antenna. But, I decided to move it to the roof.
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The difficulty with this type of installation is with keeping the loading coil away from metal. Coils hate metal; it changes their tuning.
Two exceptions: Base loaded antennas, and non-loaded antennas (102" whip). Both of these will work just fine on a toolbox. Yes, a 102 will whack a few leaves going by... I absolutely love the Larsen NMO27. Mounted in the center of the roof, it's hard to beat for performance, and the SAC (Spousal Acceptance Factor) is about as high as you're going to get. Hint: Get a professional radio company (*NOT* a CB shop) to install it for you. They'll punch the hole, run the coax, and put on the PL259 for you. I've had them installed for $50... including the mount. They can probably get the Larsen antenna for you, as well.
And no, the hole in the roof does NOT affect the resale value of the vehicle. If you're worried about it at sales time, get a cheap SiriusXM antenna and attach it to the mount.
As for bonding, I'd go box to bed, bed to frame, and cab to frame. Try to keep the lengths of braid to under six inches each. The slickest toolbox job I saw was where the installer had one bolt going through the bed, with both the box and frame straps attached to it. -
Well, I got it all mounted up with the aluminum tool box. I went with mounting it to the driver's side of the toolbox close to the cab. I used the existing ground that ran from the frame to the antenna mount and bolted it to one of the bolts holding the box to the bed rail. It seems to have pretty decent ground and I was able to drop swr to 1.8 on 1 and 40 with a1.6 on 20. It looks good, sounds good, and still gets out about 10 miles or so. I'm still planning on running ground straps all over to see if it improves.
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