Wiring a radio or an AMP

Buy a good tv soundbar with bluetooth. Connect it to inverter and run music from your phone or sirius receiver. Awesome sound and very easy to set up

 

25W to 200W only gives you 1.5 more "S" units. If the band is open, the guy on the other end isn't going to be able to tell the difference. If the band is not open, the guy isn't going to hear you either way.

 

When I am up around 600 watts, rpm and speedometer go crazy as do def and fuel gages and also, if my doors are not already locked, they lock. Also cuts off the cruise control. Been that way over a year so guess no damage done.

 

Dirty amp and/or radio.

 

oh sure. gotta be that right.

 

So your saying that an increase of 1.5 S units will not make a difference. These guys are not trying to shoot skip, there trying to be heard truck to truck driving down the road because some bone head base station keys over drivers. And yes it will help local truck to truck.

Noise level and your signal are both at 8 units, now your at 9.5 to 10 and now above the noise, yes it helps. Is it legal no, but no one here is asking that either.

I recommend going to a high drive 450 though. Your radio needs to be tuned key low modulate high good swing. Also go to a great not a good antenna like a Stryker or Monkey made. Single Antenna is best for a Amp setup, short patch cord between radio and amp. Also make sure you pull your DC from the Battery directly, use a larde enough gauge wire to handle the current draw.

The Amatures on here mean well, but keep in mind the are amatures.

O yeah, you match the antenna to the frequency the radio operates on not the radio to the antenna. Once a antenna is tuned to the frequency, you do not need to retune because you change radios, unless the next radio has frequencies not covered bu the previous radio, such as a export radio.

Last thing tune your antenna without the amp in line, do not tune the antenna with the amp.

 

Yep it surely isn't the truck. when you have a dirty amp which puts out all kinds of crap in the air, it effects a lot of things. The amazing thing is the computers on the truck go through a lot of testing to see what effects it and what doesn't. It isn't like it is a harden computer system but it is better then the 1980's computers on cars.

Doesn't matter if you have the best made CB amp, if it is dirty, it is dirty.

 

I run a Galaxy 95T and never had an issue. Proper installation is everything. Good grounds for the radio and antenna system. Making sure the ground system of the truck is up to par helps also.

I always draw my power directly from the first battery of the series. Check the grounds between the battery and frame/engine/truck body/ dooors, and antenna mounts. Grounds are just as important as positive connections.

With electrical clean and tight are the only way to go. do not use grease, unless you know what your doing with it, I use a thin coat of conductive grease on my connections, but be very careful it is conductive just like a piece of wire.

 

I didn't say that. I said:

In the case of "running skip", which is what the OP was discussing, a 1.5 "S" unit difference isn't significant enough to make any real difference. When the band is open, 10W is as good as 100W.

The OP was talking about "skip". More power definitely does make a difference with ground wave. 25 -> 200W will about double the range. Assuming flat terrain with no obstacles (like hills)... which rarely happens.

As for the base stations... there is no way that any mobile station is going to compete with 1500W into a 7 element beam up 200'. Don't even bother trying.

I feel sorry for the losers who feel they have to interfere with other people. Being a big d**k in no way indicates that you have a big one... in fact, pretty much the opposite is true.