Sorry if this has been answered, not very computer literate, but how's the grounding on these t660's, thinking I should run a ground from antenna to body or frame, what's your thought?
T660 antenna set up
Discussion in 'CB Radio Forum' started by crzyjarmans, Dec 18, 2014.
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OK, by the lack of response? I'm taking there isn't anyone that has any knowledge on the t660's, thanks anyways
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I have a T600, with similar mirror mounts. I don't remember the SWR readings from tuning it, but no problems with a single Wilson 2000 mounted on the driver's side factory mount. On the passenger side, I reamed the mount enough to fit an NMO style (thick) surface mount and a 2M/70cm antenna. Both radios RCI 2970-N2 and Kenwood TM-V71A seem to be working as expected. Although I have not gone any further by having a radio shop test out the antenna systems with better measurement equipment.
On mine, I believe the mirror brackets are aluminum. They mount with fairly large bolts to the cab frame. I would suppose that a separate ground lead would be a good idea, given potential for loss in the hinge of the mirror bracket plus oxidation at the antenna and bracket mounts. -
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I would go to the frame with as short a run of ground strap you can get away with....These trucks and there electronics are not real radio freindly.. -
Use a heavy duty ground strap about 1 inch wide minimum from the negitive side of the Batteries to a place on the frame close to the battery location, clean off the paint and grease, clean metal , use nuts, bolts and internal/external lockwashers, connectors should be soldered to the strap. Same spot run a grounds cable from this bole to the body, same drill no paint at connection point, on the frame bolt, lock washer, electrical connection from the ground straps. lockwasher, feed thru the frame lockwasher nut then self locking nut.
The cab, nut lockwasher bolt thru the main body I try to do this undr the cab. Connection clean and tight, paint them to seal the connection.
Now your cab is grounded, near your radio use a sheet metal screw with internal / external lockwashers to secure a ground to the radio, also use a inline fuse on the ground equal to the load plus 20 %( This is to protedt your radio from the tractor).
Same for the doors, runa ground fromm the body to the door using the same type sheet metal screws andd lockwashers,with this type of lockwasher you should not need to clear paint on doors or body it willl bite thru the paint into the metal.
Repeat this from the mirror bracket to the door if grounding is suspect, normally the door to body ground is enough, but when in doubt run from the antenna mount to the bolts securing the mirror. add lock washers if missing.
As an extra you can add a ground strap from the frame location to the engine block, but you need to consult manufacture before. It is important that your grounding does not form a ground loop situation, you do not want hjgh current item to not be grounded, never remove factory grounds, just makes sure they are clean and tight.Neverready Thanks this. -
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Running one long ground wire from the mount to the frame or elsewhere does not accomplish what you need. Many do this, and it might even improve their SWR reading, but it won't improve your performance. Powder Joints is correct. You can sometimes get away with a heavy gauge, very fine wire cable like they use in the stereo shops, or a piece of coax (the shield is braided), but flat braid is the best. You are not after a simple electrical ground, you are looking to bond the whole vehicle together so that you have a good rf ground/ground plane. Because of more and more non-conductive material in today's vehicles, this (bonding) has become necessary for optimum performance.
There are some good threads on here about this.....if I get time and can find them, I'll post the links.
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