braking on big mountains...

Discussion in 'Experienced Truckers' Advice' started by elharrison, Feb 8, 2008.

  1. elharrison

    elharrison "Iam on my way"

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    yeah im sure if your going off main highway out there in west pa, its not the best of roads

    i found that out couple weeks ago, i had a delievery in uniontown pa
    off 68:biggrin_25521:like 68 isnt fun enough at keysers ridge and get on us40 woot i found some big hills
     
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  3. TrooperRat

    TrooperRat Medium Load Member

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    Not real familier with Stoneman Lake, that hill on 17 isn't really much of a hill, but it does seem disproportionate amount of cars kissing each other goes on there. In actuality, Arizona has some very steep grades, including one 13% grade I know of and several 10% grades.
     
  4. MACK E-6

    MACK E-6 Moderator Staff Member

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    Well, there are 2 ways to bypass the PA Turnpike tunnel out at the 123mm. You can use PA-31 east from Somerset, or PA-281 north from Somerset to US-30 east. There's a pretty big hill on that part of 30, 9% for about 6 miles, but as opposed to 31 it's not real heavily traveled so you can take your time .

    All the hills on I-68 are all 6%. 40 in PA is a bit of a roller coaster ride, though. Chestnut Ridge, the last hill before Uniontown going west, is a killer.
     
  5. truckin916

    truckin916 Medium Load Member

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    Sep 7, 2007
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    Gear down to whatever gear it is that will hold you.

    Just don't be in a high gear at a high rate of speed and expect your brakes to work for too long. A little excercise that explains this is this:

    Put the palms of your hands together (like you are gonna pray) and rub them against each other at a high rate of speed....they heat up really fast!
    Now do the same thing exept rub them together slowly...they don't heat up nearly as much.

    Basically, if you are on like a 6% grade and are running heavy, try 6th at about 20-25 mph....you can use your brakes as needed, just don't ride them all the way down...you are going slow enough that they shouldn't overheat on you. Use 5th if you need to, whatever gear that will keep you slow enough and not make you constantly ride the brakes.
    Don't take your rpm's into the red either, your engine won't last long...

    Even better....get a jake brake and you probably won't even need to touch your brakes on a downgrade if you do it right...
     
  6. hawkman01136

    hawkman01136 Bobtail Member

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    Jan 26, 2008
    ocala, Florida
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    :biggrin_25525:This site is really good on geting this type of info. Thanks guys for all the posts you put up to help us all? Hawkman01136
     
  7. elharrison

    elharrison "Iam on my way"

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    Feb 8, 2007
    WV
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    yeah it was foggy and dark when i went up there, and i had a bit of a butt pucker when i seen dangerous mountain signs and flashing lights:biggrin_25521:
     
  8. MedicineMan

    MedicineMan Road Train Member

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    Is that the hill that yo hit running south off of flagstaff? That sucker is the one hill that almost killed yours truely when I started out
     
  9. GasHauler

    GasHauler Master FMCSA Interpreter

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    Forget that crap about using one or two gears down than what you came up in. You down know if the hill on that side is the same or if it is steeper. And todays engines are more powerful than when that rule was used.

    I've come down many grades with and without an engine brake. And most of those loads were over loaded. Permitted loads that grossed up to 110,000lbs going all over the states.

    The MOST important issue that was already discussed is PRE-TRIP. That's the only time that I came close to getting killed. Going down down I-68 southbound in West Virginia with a bulldozer on that grossed 108,000lbs. I had rented a Ryder Tractor with a single drop 3 axle Navy trailer. I hit the bottom where the sign says 55mph curve ahead and that's what I was
    doing. That trailer smoked for a good 20 miles.

    jlkkl77 talks about a new way but I disagree. I've been using that system for over 20 years. I was taught that way by the old timers and I've never had any problems except when I was stupid and didn't check the brakes that one time.

    After you've check the brakes and start down the grade I'll let the truck ease up to about 30mph. I'll apply steady pressure to bring the truck back down to 25mph and let it drift. When it gets to 30mph again I'll repeat the steady pressure. I'll watch for any slight signs of smoke and stick my nose out to smell. Don't stab the brakes, just a good steady pressure. Now this is with no engine brake and loaded to the max, I mean heavy.

    You've got to take into consideration that you might need the full power of your braking system if there's an emergency like an acident around the bend or falling rocks.

    If you notice that you're using more air pressure to slow you down then you can do one of two things stop or slow down. Either way you've got to cool your brakes.

    The reason you're losing your brakes is you've heated up the drums so much that they are expanding and the brake pads are not applying enough force to slow you down. In fact they are dragging more and causing more heat.

    This scenario is for a 6 axle truck with no engine brake and is loaded with a bulldozer grossing well over 100,000lbs. With a 80,000lbs truck the speeds can be increased but you still need to watch the axles and the air gauge so it doesn't get away from you.

    A truck with an engine brake is a blessing. But then again (if you're heavy) don't let that overcome your abilities to keep control of the truck at all times. Just remember that scenario of the falling rocks or an accident. If the situation required you to stop in a hurry could you???
     
  10. MedicineMan

    MedicineMan Road Train Member

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    EXACTLY!!! I've always loved that one!
     
  11. jlkklj777

    jlkklj777 20 Year Truckload Veteran

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    Oct 1, 2007
    Duncannon, Pa
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    Gas Hauler what are you talking about?

    First off dropping gears prior to descending a hill is the smart way of driving. Not sure why you would say; "forget that crap" when that so called crap has kept drivers safe for years.

    The old method with older engines was to go down the hill in the same gear you climbed it. That info came from veteran drivers that were driving back in the 1950's and 1960's. As you did state the new engines are much more powerful and can climb the mountains faster than their predecessors. This is why the schools teach "gear down 1 to 2 gears "before" you descend a hill (mountain).

    You claim you have used "snub braking" for 20 years. Thats wonderful. Perhaps it is just the label that is new. Although I am not sure what constitutes new and old in this industry anymore.

    For your comment about "forget that crap" I offer the following; "chances are you will live to drive another day if you go a little slower down a mountain than actually necessary rather than going down a mountain too fast, catching your rig on fire or crashing because you lost control."

    I think the old saying is; "it is better to go down a mountain too slow 99 times and live rather than go down a mountain too fast 1 time and die."

    Now for the comments about "stab braking." Yes this is still practiced but with the advent of ABS mandated brakes this stab brake method is actually becoming obsolete as the computer actually releases the brakes and keeps the tires rolling for traction faster than any driver could hope to.

    Technology is making great strides and it is making our jobs not only easier but safer.
     
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