Need help to wrap my head around this one. Which way do you do a belly wrap around a bunch of pipe?
#1 Lay the strap or chain across the bed, loaded the truck, then go over the top and then back under the load to the other side?
#2 Load the trailer and go over the top, back under the load and then over the top to the other side?
I think there are merits to either way. And does the belly wrap count when you are spacing out the straps, i.e. 1 in the first 10 feet and then one every 5 feet of the load? So a 28 foot pipe should have 5 straps, according to the book, while a 20 foot pipe would require 3 straps?
Belly wrap
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Slay, Apr 15, 2015.
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Doesn't really matter which method you use. As long as the straps are pulling down on the load and you don't let them overlap (overlapping will prevent them from getting tight) it's all good. I always laid my straps out on the deck with the hook on the side with the winches. Then just toss both ends over the load. Seem to be the easiest for me anyway.
As for how many and how far apart, consult the regs. They've probably changed since my flatbedding days 5 years ago. I always tossed one or two more than what was required. Yeah, it was probably overkill. But I never had a load come off the truck either.MrEd and Dieselwrangler Thank this. -
Eother way works. I secure the heck outta pipe. A 28 ft section if pipe would have 6 straps at least 4 belly wraps. I am assuming single layer? If multiple layers up to 20 straps
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laying the straps underneath, you won't get as much as tension on the load pulling directly from the trailer.
vs. pulling the straps from on top of the load. you'll get more tension.
you can also use the hooks in the winches to add tension with the straps on both sides of the trailer. provided the hook doesn't bend and break. which happens once in a blue moon.
lay your straps on the trailer. and throw both sides of the strap over top to other side. and winch down on both ends.Last edited: Apr 16, 2015
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if you are hauling pipe always belly wrap 2 or three times with chains and use 3/8 or bigger, straps will stretch.. I used only 1/2 chain breaking strength 50,000# and more,,better to over chain,,if you are lazy drive a dry van,,
HOTSHOTTER432 and Macneil Thank this. -
Mudguppy, peterbilt_2005 and KenworthGuyNH Thank this.
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Make your muscles big from dragging all that iron around lol
i hauled ductile iron pipe for a year steady. Mixed sizes were the biggest pain in the ###. Belly wrap the whole load least one time per set of layers, lots of securement overtop. Feel free to belly wrap each layer with a chain and binder if you feel better that way.
I used simple math for overtop securement: 1 belly strap per stack. Then start at 5' increments. One layer of pipe = strap every 5'. 2 layers strap every 4'. 3 layers strap every 3'. 4 layers strap every 2'. 5 layers strap every 1'. Also if it's not steel banded when loading & they put it on. In layers: at least 1 strap per layer. Them there's the plus 1 strap if it's not on a headboard.
I've never had a shift problem or one come loose. Sure was fun delivering them to abandoned jobsites (had to deliver after union guys left) and string them out without breaking any or damaging the concrete liners using no machine. Specially the big stuff. Trying to roll a 18" stick off the side from the 3rd tier and get it to land on a bush/ramped out 4x4 or two...makes you really rethink all the safety videos you've ever seen where crush injuries were possible :/ -
I use straps only. Most of my pipe loads have an epoxy coating and you can't use chains. Every 2 layers I put 2 straps on. Then I'll put maybe 5 or 6 straps over the whole load.
I had a load shift once and had to go back to the shipper. I was new and that will never happen again. Scared the crap out of me. I went around a corner and watched it move. -
I never trust the wedges or just over the top straps to keep pipe in place. If I cant chain pipe (Coated pipe) Then I use 2 belly wraps per layer of pipe.
And I always hook chains to the front of the pipe that goes above my step. Not tight,.. just a hook in the bevel to catch it if I have to stop or hit something the pipe wont come crashing through my sleeper. I've had delivery question the chain on coated pipes ends from time to time. Certain places I've learned to remove the chains approx 1 mile before delivery to not get hassled over my safety requirements. No damage or marks on the pipe. They only say something if they see the chains,.. no chains,.. nothing is ever said. Everyone happy.
Hurst -
I always lay the strap or chain on the deck and then put the load on and then throw the chain or strap over top of the load. I have hauled lots of pipe this way using straps( sometimes the pipe is thin wall and they dont want chain used on it) and never had the strap stretch.
plentygood Thanks this.
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