2004 columbia mbe4000 power problems

I hope so too- worse case scenario is that you bite the bullet and drive slower than you want to until the maint account builds up- that's something I'm used to doing- just takes determination.

I'll drop in again tomorrow night- let us know what you find?

 

I can't remember completely, but it looks to me to be almost fully on. Tap it toward the slave cylinder and see if it stays there. These bengine brakes are know to stick in the on position, killing the engine power.

Whether on or off, the unit should be able to move somewhat freely.

You can tell by looking at the picture the shaft hasn't been working in a while.

 

The shaft is supposed to be in the cylinder. You can see the shiny section and the rusty section. The rusty section is where the shaft exits the cylinder.

You will need to use penetrating oil on the swivel points on the exhaust manifold.

 

Hi Vinnie- that bad boy's stuck mostly closed- that's what's killing your power.

Soak it good with penetrating oil and keep tapping it with a hammer- until that shaft goes back into the slave cylinder. It should go into the cylinder until only the dark part of the shaft is sticking out (The last inch or so of linkage just before the ball joint).

Unfortunately, that's also a high dollar part. It looks like a simple iron flap pivoting on a shaft- but it's more complicated than that. Inside the pipe is a steel collar that moves back and forth- when it engages, it slides down around the turbine wheel and chokes off the turbo. There's a small chance that you might oil it and work it free, then it might work well- but it could also close more and choke off your engine completely. You'll have just enough power if that happens to get to the shoulder of the road.

If it closes all the way, clamp a pair of Vice-Grip pliers onto the linkage. You want the handle of the pliers facing up. Then find a strong spring or a bungee cord- or as a last resort, a length of strong wire. Hook one end around the handle of the Vice Grips and pull the other end to something on the firewall. Should be some brackets around your A/C to fasten the other end to. That will hold it open until you find a replacement or can get it repaired. I drove mine like that for months waiting to get back to a shop.

If you don't think you need it, you might even consider just removing the turbo brake. Haven't ever seen it done, but you could probably disassemble it and throw away the inner collar, linkage and slave cylinder. Just stick bolts in the pivot shaft holes and plug the air line to the cylinder.

When it's working right, it's awesome- you can hold a load back on the steepest hills- the owner's manual says to keep the RPM's at 2,200 to 2,400- BUT "DO NOT EXCEED 2,400 RPM'S" for the maximum effect. And if you need the engine brake to help the auto trans shift in steep hills, it kicks in automatically to change gears faster.

Let us know how it goes? Good luck Vinnie!

 

But from 1600 on down, it's like sticking your arm out the window,

 

You're right about that- when it happened to me, I found the driver's manual (nobody leaves them in a used truck anymore) and looked it up.

Like always, when you can't figure out why it doesn't work, get out the directions...

 

When I ran with the Mercedes I didn't have any big hills to go down, just slowing for sharpe curves and a few things like that. It did enough at lower rpms for what I needed. I just couldn't bring myself to rev it that high for what I needed.

I had good service out of the truck until they started running it two shifts, and the other drivers drove it like a deranged dragster.

I usually get the clutch adjusted, or adjust it myself, when I first start driving a truck. After that I usually never have to have it adjusted again. When these yahoos started driving, it was a monthly thing.

After the others started driving is when the turbos and head gaskets started letting go.