60 series Detroit / head off for injector cup??

I don't know about the 12.7, but I thought a machine shop had to remove cups and press them back in (except for the screw in type).

 

These are the thread in type for a 14.0, had to buy all 6 cups. The cups in my truck or a copper colored and now freightliner says that they have been discontinued and can no longer be ordered. So I had to buy all 6, since they told me they should not be mixed. The new ones are steel, I hope these are an improvement. I will be changing it out on #6 tommorrow and retest. Still wondering what is the best way to clear head of water before removing cup.

 

bar the engine to where number 6 cyliner is at TDC. You can get a syringe and connect it to a 1/4" air line, and pull the coolant out of the cylinder with syringe.

 

All water emptied out when I drained radiator, looking for advice on what to put on the thread cups, detriot recommends nickle based anti seize, but I can't see how this would seal threads. Some others say detriot makes a high temperature teflon gasket maker. I put anti seize on and retested, still possible leak. I'm thinking of going ahead and pulling head, any Ideas on thread sealant for injector cup threads.

 

Checked harbor freight but end won't fit into cylinder because it is bigger than the threads on the cup. I took a cup with me to check it out. Home depot had one pricey at $199 but it has a 2'' long solid camera head and I was afraid I wouldn't be able to make the turn.

 

Anti sieze. Is it still leaking from the top part of the cup?

 

It never did leak from the top, you could visually see that once you pull injector. I was hoping it was leaking from bottom threads, the drip is running down back side of #6 liner under the piston, at a rate of about a drop every 5 minutes. I really can't see where its leaking.
I had hoped it was coming from threads at the bottom of injector cup. It just doesn't seem to me like anti-seize would hold water pressure. I'm pressurizing system to 10 psi. Detriot recommends Nickle based anti-seize which has a work temperature of 2400 degrees (F). I was hoping someone might know of something better to use on threads.
I am not looking forward to pulling head, hoping I didn't have to. Pulling head today, I will be really upset to find out it is the bottom of injector cup, but I quess it would still be better than say; cracked liner, blown head gasket or worse cracked head.
I was going to try to insert camera, but ID of cup is about 4mm to 5mm and cameras are all 7 mm lens, it would have to be flexible cable and be turned upward once inside cylinder. If I removed cup the camera would fit, but I couldn't leave water test on without injector cup, to veiw leak in cylinder.

 

I'll give you a little update on progress, pulled head. Head bolt between #5 cylinder and #6 on passenger side off center of head was hand tight. Had to use upward force and thread bolts out. Major soot build up in both center bolt holes. Pulled head, wire cylinder seal in head gasket was half gone and head gasket showed signs of a trough in it, leading to passenger side bolt hole. It appears to be a small channel could have been forming to water channel on passenger side to the bolt. Soot was hardened on bolts. My thought is bolt was not tight from the beginning or would heat from gasket leak cause this. Just wondering?

P.S. cleaning block and head for new gasket, head gaskets have been re-engineered, bolt torque has been changed and injector cups redesigned to allow more water around them. All this I think is because head runs hotter with EGR system. Possibly my head gasket problem.

 

Make sure you check liner protrusion before you put it back together. Hopefully the #5 and 6 liners havn't dropped at all

 

Just finished cleanup of decks and bolt holes, cleaned inside bolt threads. Will check #6 today, layed straight edge across them yesterday all are matching, put light on back side and checked matching height.
Found vertical scoring on #5 liner drivers side, will have to replace and check piston, replace rings. I'm thinking broken ring, I've seen where pistons need to be soaked upside down in clean oil and immediatley put in sleeve. I'll do this before installing.