I'm with train777. use a torch. Easiest quickest way to get those stubborn bolts off. I think mine were rusted in the bottom. Top bolt came off with impact. Lowers needed torch on drive axles. Steering came off ok with impact. I use old license plate to shield behind bolt to prevent melting something I don't need melted. Sometimes a wet rag will do the trick. Put anti-seize on the new bolt when installing. Next time its easy.
Changing Shocks?
Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by mgrantes, Nov 27, 2014.
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No luck with a propane torch. I'll heat the bolt up for 5-10 min and then spray it with penetrating oil. Nothing. I've no experience with acetylene but from what I've read acetylene only makes the heating process faster. I should be able to accomplish the same thing with a regular torch, no? I've even tried mind heating and penetrating oil, much like the candlestick method. And with every method I've tried I've also hammered the hell out of the bolt. My next step is to use my lug nut torque multiplier. These are OEM shocks so there's no telling how long they've been on the truck, and yes the bottom bolts seems to be the worse.
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I would let the garage do the work.
Shocks sound like a cake walk and simple to do.
Like the previous guy said you will need some serious heat to get them separated.
Don't forget when using heat, you are replacing a gas shock. Bad things could happen if you get to close to the gas chamber.. I tried using a puller on mine. It broke. I gladly let the shop do it.
Shocks on big trucks are not easy when you don't have the tools to do it!RoadRanger^^ and mgrantes Thank this. -
I wasn't comfortable using extreme heat in that area for many reasons, so I opted to cut them out. I didn't want to use a grinder (high speed projectiles) in such a delicate area so I used a reciprocating saw with a metal cutting blade. Nothing fancy. So long as you take your time and let the tool do the work you can cut through a grade 8 3/4in bolt in about 10-15 minutes. I used some cheap blades from harbor freight as well as a milwaulkee name brand from home depot. Both seemed to cut at the same rate with about the same blade life expectancy. From there it was much easier to knock loose the remaining bolt ends.
Alternatively, I also found that I can work a bolt loose by alternating tightening/loosening it. This takes MUCH longer and I experienced hand fatigue multiple times while using a 1/2 impact for just one bolt. I'd only recommend this if you must save the bolt+nut, but mine were in such bad shape that I knew I'd be replacing them beforehand. On more than one shock the inner metal bushing turned with the bolt - it was that rusted. Heating only seemed to help separate this bushing from it's rubber surrounding, which is of no help.
When using a new bolt I typically just lube it with available grease as a rust preventative. -
Wow, 5 hours for 1 shock?
Did you not spray all the bolts several hours before with PBbalster or wd40?
If you are having that much of a problem, take it to a car mechanic (charges less than a truck mechanic )
Do NOT use an impact gun to tighten to reinstall. Ratchet and wrench is all you need.
Use anti seeze on bolts, change them every year during the same month.
Shocks for trucks don't last 200k miles. Anyone tells you they do are full of it.Rideandrepair Thanks this. -
Typically Shops first cut the shock off with a torch then cut bolt in half.
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Propane just makes something hot fast, it is not by itself enough to cut strong materials.
The only other thing I can think of higher functioning than that is Plasma. -
Sometimes it's better to take the truck to someone.
BUT, If you are going to use Heat, you must use oxygen and acetylene with preferably a rosebud torch.
You need to heat the nut only (not the stud) most likely until it's red-hot, but do not make it so hot that you melt it. At that point your air gun or a good breaker bar will be able to break it loose. The heat expands the nut so that it can back off of the stud.
Harbor Freight has a cheap little welding outfit for $99, or at least they used to. I bought it just to have a backup in case my big torches had a problem which now they do need to be rebuilt.
I think the rosebud torch that came with it was defective but the cutting torch I've been using for quite a while and it works surprisingly well. I have even cut truck frames and heavy steel with no problem.
On a side note, some guys that are really good with a torch can take a nut and cut just about half of it off and leave all the threads intact. Then take a chisel and knock the other half of the nut down.
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