It is obvious to me that this is a major issue, although I only have to buy them once a year, they get replaced 3 or 4 times under warranty, until the first set is a year old, then I have to buy them again.
The more I research, the more I realize this is an international issue, and it ain't going away.
What I propose is to direct connect the compressor to a switch in the dash.
This will bypass everything until I get the thermester replaced.
It only happens when it's hot (of course), so I need the air, and dealers are horrible about getting it in quickly for warranty work (I run long haul, so the dealers don't know me).
I know I will have to shut it off every half hour so it doesn't freeze up, and it bypasses the safeties, but I am ready to accept that.
Worst that can happen is I have to buy a new compressor, and that's cheaper now than 2 thermester kits!!
Thoughts from you experts??
09 Prostar thermistor solution?
Discussion in 'International Forum' started by joec43, Sep 21, 2014.
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DO NOT direct wire the compressor. You will blow the system in no time. You have no way of knowing what the pressure is. You would have to constantly watch a pressure gauge while you are driving. Not going to work. As for the thermistors, yes, they are a weak point, but not like you are saying. I have never had a single customer that needed the sensors replaced over and over like you are saying. I think the root cause is wiring and/or the connectors. I would recommend to run new wires from the firewall connector over to the two sensors. The thermistors come as a kit now with two thermistors and new connectors. Some techs will get lazy and only r&r the sensors and not install the new connectors. Make sure they install both the two sensors, and both new connectors too!
joec43 Thanks this. -
Back to dealer yesterday.
2 new theridtors, 2 new ends, and this time they did put on the shrink wrap supplied with the kit, against their better judgement.
Say it's too hard to get it off when they have to replace them, and they know they will.
We'll see them again on a month or two I'm sure. -
Not only are they hard to get off but you cant check ohms to verify they are bad. 2500 ohms is normal for a new one. I replaced another one yesterday reading 1300 ohms.
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I can't believe no one has come up with a way to bypass these
KB3MMX Thanks this. -
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That is all computer controlled. Really nothing you can do without the proper diagnostics. If it works, then quits, then key off, key back on and it works again for 20 mins, I would say you have a pressure sensor or circuit problem.
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How about just solder in a couple of heavy duty resistors of the proper value, to the connectors. Then protect them with a pill vial or a 35mm film case. To kinda fool the controller. Telling it that the ohms are right on for optimal performance. Just a thought.
truckerbangin Thanks this. -
Is it for sure that the thermester is really the problem, because mine just went out and I am looking for options but have already spent allot of money in this truck. I want to be positive on the correct parts. As for as I have read, yes I can unplug the fuse Ann's plug it right back up and start but goes out 20-45min late..... wonder if I connect a relay.... would that keep me from having to hit a switch ever 20-45min in my sleep time?
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In the thermistor kit you buy or pay for, there is also all new terminal pins and connectors bodies for the wiring as well. Many people do not install them. Many problems are actually corroded or loose pins at the connector, not the thermistor. When the thermistors are replaced the wiring gets wiggled and can reestablish that electrical connection until about a week later and then that bad pin starts to cause problems again. Make sure they are replacing the connector ends!!!
KB3MMX Thanks this.
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