2007 International 4300 shuts down after coming to a stop

Discussion in 'International Forum' started by 11Todd, Mar 21, 2015.

  1. 11Todd

    11Todd Bobtail Member

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    Mar 21, 2015
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    hello there, i am not sure if this is the right spot to post but i figured id give it a try. i have a 2007 international 4300 tow truck and for some reason or another after driving it for about 20 minutes then coming to a stop the thing shuts off and has extremely hard time starting back up. i just replaced the primer pump on it about 20 minutes ago and it is still doing the same thing :( i went to an international dealer and told them that the old primer pump (when used) would leak a little diesel in my hand and they said yes replace it, it must be sucking in air, now i got a brand new one on and still no luck. about a week ago i just got it back from the dealer because they told me it would be somewhere in the general region of $7000 to start working on the thing. they told me that there were wiring issues etc. the truck came with the business and was one of the stronger trucks that we have however it was rigged here and there some wires are spliced into but i still could not justify paying 7k for them to start hooking up wires again here and there. the dealer told me that they could not use the scanner to identify the problem since the truck was not communicating with the computer. anyway i am kind of stuck in the middle of nothing now and not sure what else i should replace.any kind of advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks
     
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  3. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Ok, I am assuming it has an automatic transmission, is the trans possibly not downshifting properly and actually stalling the engine? Try shifting into neutral to see. Is this a Maxxforce DT engine? If it is shutting down when coming to a stop I am thinking either fuel or oil is being forced forward in the fuel tank or oil pan from momentum and either the fuel pump is sucking air, or oil pump is sucking air of which either situation will cause a shut down and then hard start. Both the fuel or oil levels would have to be very low for this to happen. The force of slowing down could also cause some wiring to get pulled as the suspension leans down during a stop and kill the engine. This should be creating a fault and set an engine light or show some kind of electrical fault in the LCD display. If the engine is experiencing some kind of wiring problem causing a no start it may be because the ECM has lost power. There are two good ways to confirm this. At key-on, it is actually the engine that turns on the yellow and red engine warning lights for a bulb check. If the engine ECM is not powering up those lights will not come on at key on. The next thing to check for is during cranking the tach will not show any rpm if the ECM is not powering up or if there is no cam or crank signal. The ECM has a separate power and ground feed directly from the batteries. There are fuses at the battery box for the engine. Check the fuses and the connectors for any corrosion or melted terminals. Follow that harness up the engine as best as possible and make sure it isn't rubbing through anywhere and possibly shorting out when coming to a stop.
     
    goodname Thanks this.
  4. bad-luck

    bad-luck Road Train Member

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    I would steer clear of the dealer like the plague... find a small reputable shop. Maybe you could talk to the previous owner and find out worked on it before
     
  5. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    I know not everyone trusts dealers and there are a lot of bad dealers out there, but there are also good ones. Just because one dealer shot themselves in the foot doesn't mean they are all like that. I have seen many customers waste thousands in repairs because they went to a "small reputable" shop who basically in the end had no clue what they were doing and guessed the whole time since they didn't have the right wire diagrams, computer software and engine diagnostic manuals. Nothing wrong with small shops for a lot of work. But when you have something specific and odd wrong with your truck that is possibly electrical or electronic in nature I always recommend taking it to the right shop with technicians that have been trained and have the proper diagnostic materials. I will never defend another International dealer because they are all independently owned and operated. For someone to call and explain their truck is stalling when coming to a stop and the dealer instantly says it will be $7000 to start working on it doesn't sound right to me. I have to assume there was some kind of misunderstanding. People bend the truth and exaggerate all the time, no offence, but I always take comments like that with a grain of salt.
     
  6. Fajo

    Fajo The Dark Knight

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    Every International dealer I have ever taken my truck to has messed it up worse then it was when it went in. Good example, I went in for a fith wheel rebuild as it would jam and not release and not latch from time to time, Fith wheel needed rebuilt. Instead one of there Professionally trained techs figured it was the 5th wheel air release line that was causing the problem. He changed the service air line and the solenoid attached to it. Needless to say he was wrong, luckly I did not have to pay for none of it as Knight agreed they should of never changed those parts. Ended up taking it to a mom and pop shop had the fith wheel rebuilt in 4 hours and was on my way.

    Cummins here in Boise, ID. Is about the only shop I trust to work on their engines all other dealers I avoid like the plague.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2015
  7. 11Todd

    11Todd Bobtail Member

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    Mar 21, 2015
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    yes it does have an automatic trans. i forgot to mention one other thing in my original post...sometimes you dont even have to drive the truck and come to a stop for it to shut down. if i let it sit and idle for a while, then get inside and shift out of P and say put it in R or D, right when i shift it will die too, but there is no pattern to that, it is kind of random. there are some wires that are cut by the fuse box i have to try and find some kind of a diagram that i could follow in order to trace the wires and figure out where they go, i guess i could just color code them since they are cut in the middle, as in i could find a yellow cut wire and another yellow cut wire and i would assume they have to connect. one other thing...i just went outside and it started right up...now when i was cranking it (holding the key ON) the tach stayed at 0, only after it fired up did it start reading the RPM
     
  8. 11Todd

    11Todd Bobtail Member

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    ok figured i'd add one more thing....i feel as if it only acts up once the engine is warmed up..
    i started the truck shifted through all of the gears ..moved the truck back and fourth ..everything fine...once it sat and idled for maybe 20-30 minutes i tried to shift it in D and the thing stalled right out. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT..now it wont start, keeps cranking
     
  9. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Ok, I am suspecting a fuel problem. The engine won't even crank if the ECM and trans TCU don't talk to each other first, so if it cranks the ECM is at least booting up. Your oil pressure for the injectors is ok, if it was too low that would cause a CHECK ENGINE light. There is no fault codes for fuel pressure if unless your engine has the optional fuel pressure sensor, but most do not. I would suspect a fuel pump and/or pressure regulator. What engine to have, is it a Maxxforce DT, 9 or 10?
     
  10. 11Todd

    11Todd Bobtail Member

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    Mar 21, 2015
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    hmm
    the engine that my truck has is a DT466 220 horse
     
  11. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    DT466 and Maxxforce DT have almost the same fuel system.
     
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