after 1,228,197 miles

Wow where you getting these prices called KW two weeks ago for my TRW they told 1200 plus 800 core charge. Call Russ Fisher and Illiana got 650 with core. Instead had it rebuilt for 450 but had to send off.

 

I took it to my local parts house(crossroads in Bedford IN) they sent it off. I know they beat prices from deals by more than half and beat truckpro on most items they get. So long as its not an OEM specialty they seem to get most items.

 

Want to get clucths redone cheap and generally pretty fast kyclutch.com did an off the wall Volvo 18" single disc complete rebuild in about two hours and cost 485. New clucth w throughout bearing and pilot bushing was 1400 and could not find any used.

 

I have a 2000 W900L that I just had an all wheel alignment done by a real reputable shop that does frame straightening, alignments, etc, and is very thorough. He found a bent right-front wheel, so we replaced the rim. Also found a bad left-front wheel bearing...replaced that as well. That shows me he's on the ball. He spin balances the tires on the truck, and found the right one was not capable of correcting by adding weights. The dynamic balance was not correctable, meaning the side-to-side wobble was not acceptable. Those steer tires only had about 2000 miles on them, so I took them off (new Kelly's) and replaced them with new Bridgestones and the shimmy in the wheel disappeared completely by replacing tires. Tires will do funny things.

I still have this same situation going on the rolling coal seems to have though. I have what's called "sawing", in that I have to constantly correct the wheel from left to right all the time. It's aggravating to say the least. I ran a 2000 379 Pete for the past 3.5 years that somebody else owned that I could let go of the wheel and that thing would stay as straight as an arrow until it was time to do something. I run my 1978 W900A all the time and that old girl goes down the road the same way as that 379 did; straight as an arrow for as many miles as you want to and never touch that wheel empty or loaded.

This W9L doesn't have bad kingpins, that was all checked by them and myself, I do it every time I jack it up and YES...relieving the weight off the front end to grease the pins is helpful. Think about it. There's a top and bottom bushing and a bearing that the spindle sits on between the bottom of the axle "eye" and the spindle itself. By jacking up and relieving pressure, it ensures that the grease travels into both top and bottom bushings and around the pin...so it doesn't hurt. I am guilty of not doing it every time myself, but it's good practice that any good shop worth their salt will do every time they PM a truck. It's a common sense practice more than anything else.

Getting back to this sawing issue. I'd love to hear about anyone who's had this that's found the problem. I have a buddy that swears that his did this until he started using glass bead balancer inside his steer tires. Once he used them, he said the whole problem disappeared and now he doesn't even have to correct the wheel one bit. I'm hard pressed to believe that, but again, tires do funny things. Just because you buy a new set doesn't mean they're round, I'm living proof of that myself. They can be out of round, casing could be screwy resulting in that dynamic vibration issue I just corrected by getting those new tires off...so they are critical for good front end comfort.

 

One thing that will cause this is a dry 5th wheel.