steering column in a KW

Discussion in 'Kenworth Forum' started by rollin coal, Aug 21, 2014.

  1. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    No I haven't called any out of state shops. We're just going to see what brand new springs with proper arch and a correct caster setting does. Visually I look at my springs and they don't look exactly the same from one side to another appear to sag. But I know it's hard to tell without them laying beside new springs though. I did have the spacer block switched from left to right to level the truck. Several years ago I had it put on the left to level it. That's why I had intended to get springs after New Year's cause I figured something was going on with them. Springs should be here by the end of the week maybe. They are not cheap $750 apiece.
     
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  3. Kenworth #1

    Kenworth #1 Light Load Member

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  4. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    Thanks for the videos it explained a lot. Now I understand what "in spec" means. I know you guys have already told me that it really doesn't mean that something is good but I understand where it comes from now. We used to say "it ain't going to the moon - close enuff" which is good enough for farm equipment lol. That's what "in spec" means at the factory also, a nice way to put it, eyeballing it so to speak. Like someone said in a thread about buying new trailers they're usually not in alignment from the factory and the factory considers alignment to be dealer prep work before the customer takes delivery. The production line has to move and these things have to be put together quickly...

    I'm not sure if the alignment was done with the weight off the front end or not but that makes perfect sense about how it should be in "as driven" condition with the weight on everything. A buddy of mine has asked me about that says the shop he uses does alignment with the tractor on the ground. Otherwise things change. I see what he was talking about now. Video said toe out condition could cause my symptoms but I have to ask why have I never had that problem any other time they did an alignment? Why only now after kingpin job was done? The springs are going to be a done deal, they need to be changed out. I'll find out what the procedure is when they align the front, if it's in a free state or not - I want it done right.
     
  5. Kenworth #1

    Kenworth #1 Light Load Member

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    Look up MD Alignment, they have locations all over the US. There may be a shop near you.
     
  6. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    New leaf springs are in. Made a 1,200 mile turn. Truck still does not recover itself 100% at slow speeds when making turns at stop signs or red lights. At highways speeds 65-75 mph it does somewhat better recovering itself from lane changes and is not so hard to drive but again it's not like it should be, or was before the king pin job. Caster was set at 4.1 and 4.5 after my request that it be set a little over 5 on one side and at 5 on the other. They said if I wasn;t happy with that bring it back and they'd adjust the caster... ....so yeah I really want to waste another day and burn up 180 deadhead miles to do that. I wish they had just done it as I had asked in the first place. But they know what they're doing and I don't right? Also the aligment is off since the leaf spring install and now the truck pulls to the right.

    I'm certain if I could find agood aligment tech that the truck will be much more driveable than it was and I can live with it as is. It still pisses me off I've sunk $4,500 in king pins and leaf springs plus another $500 misc expenses trying to figure out why it never did work right after the king pin job was done and I end up with something that sucks. I had intended and planned on these expenses. What I had not intended on was the job getting screwed up after the kingpins and the experts not able to figure out what they screwed up or make it right. So at this point I'm just going to try and connect up with an MD alignment shop and throw another few hundred at the problem. Confident that it will still be screwed up in the end but at least my truck won't pull to the right anymore. It does ride well and everything is basically brand new up front now. If I had things to do over again I would just pony up and buy a brand new axle and not bother with anyone re-doing king pins. Which is crazy cause I readknow some of you guys on here do your own kingpins in your backyard so wtf can't a place that does them all the time get mine right!?!?
     
  7. allan5oh

    allan5oh Road Train Member

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    If the truck pulls to the right that's either your drives are out (thrust angle, or could be your steer axle isn't centered) or your camber is out. Here's your old specs next to mine:

    Your specs aren't the same, but they're not too far out either. According to my sheet your specs are "within range". My truck is a T800 and it handles like a dream. Kaiser kingpins I did myself, TRW reman box, bearings at .001" everything EXCEPT the steering shaft/column.

    I would do the following things before sinking another penny into this, they don't cost much money or time:

    1) Adjust the steering box - This will give you the complaint you talk about. Does your steering feel loose? How much slop is there without the truck running? Was it adjusted when it was put in?

    2) Check the kingpins with a dial indicator - Using your hands for "feel" is a complete ######### method, just like wheel bearings. There are instructions on the net how to do this, and it is very precise no grey area here.

    3) Grease the snot out of your kingpins - Jack the truck up HIGH, turn your wheels all the way to the left, and grease the snot out of them as someone turns the steering wheel slowly to the right. Do again on the other side. Concentrate more on the bottom of your kingpins that's where the thrust bearing is and if it doesn't get enough grease it will cause binding. Make sure to get 100% clean grease coming out of 360 degrees of the upper and lower. It's common for new kingpins to be a bit tight and they don't grease properly.

    I'm willing to bet it's a bit of #1 and #3. Something tight on the bottom, and something loose on the top.
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2014
  8. allan5oh

    allan5oh Road Train Member

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    Toe out will cause very "loose" steering that is absolutely HORRIBLE in any sort of cross wind or road ruts. You constantly have to "see saw" back and forth even on perfectly smooth road with no wind.

    Drives being out will feel like toe out but not as bad, usually you will have a pull to the right and/or it will "fight" you horribly going over any sort of crease in the road. For example when they do road construction in one lane and you have a hump to go over to get into that lane. You go over the hump, but the truck suddenly pulls you back the other way. That's usually your drives out. It constantly feels like there's a crosswind but there isn't.
     
  9. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    I had them align the drives when they did kingpins. As far as number 1- steering adjustment is good, not too loose not too tight. It's a new "reman" TRW box. #3 might help but I don't know. I serviced the truck Saturday and geased both the topside and bottom side of the kingpins with it sitting on the ground and then also raised it off the ground and greased top and bottom. It seems like the bottom takes grease better when it's on the ground then not so well when I lift it up and the top reacts in a similar but opposite manner.

    I guess I can shoot a couple of tubes of grease in those again when I get back home with a helper turning the wheel back and forth - and see what happens. They tried that at the shop that did the kingpins the first time, before they re-did the right side king pin, and they tried it again afterwards. They didn't work the wheel back and forth. I'd be surprised if it helps but I will give it a shot.
     
  10. allan5oh

    allan5oh Road Train Member

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    It's worth a shot. I do it once in a while and do notice it makes a difference, but my kingpins are very tight.
     
  11. allan5oh

    allan5oh Road Train Member

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    This could be your problem right here. Drives that are fighting each other will cause the "veering" situation you speak of. I wouldn't worry about the return to center so much, I would worry about the veering.
     
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