steering column in a KW

When I don't know something, I will be the first to admit it. I don't know what your axle design uses fror a thrust surface/ bearing. To me it would be very doubtful if kingpin work itself had to be repeated as long as they machined the pin holes exactly perpindicular to the thrust area. If they didn't then the spindle is only resting on the high spot which means the weight is not distributed ove the whole thrust area. Which could in theory, cause a bind issue because of concentrated weight and the fact it would wipe the lubrication off the contact point. Depending on how much it is out of square it would probably "wear in" to the point of steering halfwy normal again, but that premature increased wear is likely to cause other issues. Could be as simple as bad thrust washer that somehow got cracked or tweaked on reassembly? Like I said I don't know how your axle is designed to deal with thrust.

 

Dont blame you. Needs to be done anyway. I am assuming whomever left it at near 2* is also the one(s) that concluded 1/32 for toe in as satisfactory also? 1/32 may well be "within spec"- kinda like the 2-2.5* but it is less than ideal for driveability. In a perfect world .031 (1/32) might be adequate, but...... I am not a mathematician, but if your front wheel beerings adjust anything like mine do you have to put the cotter pin in the slot that allows for the least slack, but not exceeding 0 slack. The slots are not in perfect time with the threads as to allow for a .000 bearing adjustment. Either they have to be pinned a little too snug (BAD BURN) or a little loose , maybe .002-.006. If you multiply the slack from the wheel bearing out to the contact surface of the tire and multiply it by 2 so as to allow for both sides, it would greatly shock me if it doesnt exceed .031. So going down the road you are at near zero to negative toe, and that is not allowing for wear or give in anything else related.

 

You have been complaining about pointy and not centering itself. One day ago you said not correcting itself and wandering. I am not finding fault. We need to keep to the same story to figure this out. IMO Because radial tires are softer rubber than bias ply tires the closer toe in and camber can be kept to zero the longer the tires should last. I set my toe as close to zero as I can deal with. It takes a little getting used to depending on the tires. I still believe the problem is in the kingpins because that is when the problem started. Frustrating as all get out I know. Who pays in the end depends upon where the problem turns out to be. A shop did the work and they agree there is a problem so they should continue to work with you. I think what I would do is get a GOOD axle, refurb it, then change it out with what you have. It could possibly save you a lot of downtime and point you to the problem more quickly. A risk I know but you have been paddling upstream a long time. Don't give up. When the issue is resolved you and others will have expanded your "school of hard knocks" knowledge.

 

The problem isn't the DIY part if the situation has people who do this kind of work every day confused also. Have you called MD alignment in St. Louis I believe?

 

I'll second the 5 degree castor setting. That is where I like mine set...or even slightly more...5-6 degrees. A couple of degrees or so might not sound like much but makes a big difference in handling. I have found 5-6 degrees gives it a nice relaxed highway ride without always correcting.

 

RC, I have a friend with an 03 T6, he has fought the same battle you are having for years. He has replaced EVERYTHING, multiple times, and even last year put a brand new axle under it, still was not happy. I told him to take it to a shop that I use, he finally did this spring, and they replaced the front springs and shackles. He is beside himself now, the truck drives like a dream and tire wear is great. The springs on a T6 are very long, and are prone to loosing their arch and cause a lot of problems.