hello and thanks for reading this. I am in the process of signing on with LS, just getting started about 4 weeks ago. I have read much here about LS and the process and how long it takes. I have not found much information on truck selection. I do know they will allow any year truck as long as it passes the LS inspection. I currently drive OTR so I notice ALL kinds of truck leased on to LS and it appears they are all across the board on makes and models. I have 3 friends currently O/O with LS and all 3 are mostly very happy. Between the 3 of them they own 5 trucks all 2003 and older freightliners. They all have the same words of wisdom for me and they all have offered me the same advice "buy a pre EGR truck, an '03 or older". they all preach the simplicity of the Detroit series 60 12.7 l engine and it's serviceable most anywhere. since I am new to the O/O end of this business I am seeking more advice on year selection and the potential problems with a 10 year old ruck or older. Not that I don't trust my friends, I do but I am trying to gather as much information that I can before purchasing a truck. I have very good credit, I own a modest home, I have a decent down payment and I have previous business ownership experience. I have driven for 3 years as a company driver for 2 large companies and just want to run my own business and most importantly, I want the independence to run where I want and when. Thanks to any of you who have the time and care to reply with advice for me, I truly appreciate it.
???'s on what year truck to buy
Discussion in 'Landstar' started by Mr Big Dog, Jul 4, 2013.
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Your friends are giving you good advice. The pre egr so 2003 and older engines are quite good. The years to really avoid are the DPF only trucks from 07-09 as they have the work reliability and fuel mileage out there.
While the Pre-egr trucks are the cheapest you do have to factor into the purchase price any major upcoming maintenance like an engine overhaul. Some people try to sell their trucks before something major breaks. They know that it will happen but are trying to unload it on you and you need to be aware and prepared if that is going to happen to you.
Whatever you decide to purchase make sure you have enough money set aside to float you for at least 2 months. Cash flow is what kills a driver especially when they are first starting up as you will be paying for many things before you receive your first pay cheque. Try to avoid the quick pay and factoring options as they take the profit margin out of your business and just let you exist. Remember a 3% discount to be paid next day rather than in a month while the upfront rate doesnt seem that much is actually a 36.5% interest rate per year you are being charged.CougFan and Mr Big Dog Thank this. -
All of your friends are correct, '03 or older for ENGINE simplicity, but the rest of the truck is going to need several updates to the suspension, transmission ect... However they're obviously not running Ca. if you're not going to run NJ. or Canada either you can run a modified '07 or older truck until the pollution police become nationwide.
Mr Big Dog Thanks this. -
Well, when you buy an old truck you make money because you don't have a big truck payment but you pay out big money to have it repaired. Find a reliable truck shop that will do your maintenance. Every time you take it in have them give it a quick inspection to help prevent problems on the road. It helps a lot if you are mechanical. I bought a 1992 9700 International COE for $9500 a few years ago and a lot of drivers laughed but I put at least $1800 in the bank every week. Detroit is a good motor, just don't take it to Freightliner for repair. Look online for a Detroit Diesel dealer. You will get better, faster service for sure. At the very least get a truck with a bunk heater or have one installed. Get a "TRUCKING" accountant. I use PBS out of CA. As an O/O for LS you will have your freedom to run when and where you please but you will always have the headache and cost of truck maintenance and after all is said and done you will make about the same money as a company driver, the big difference being the company driver has affordable benefits and gets paid vacation. Enjoy your freedomm
Mr Big Dog Thanks this. -
Wonder how many times he'll hear these same bits...
The dpf trucks are 08 to 2010 years.
EPA04 has the egr. 2005 to 2007. Acceptable to banks for financing. Prior to this, banks may balk at financing older.
EPA07 is 2008 to 2010. These had egr and dpf. Mileage and mechanical issues are known
EPA10 is 2011 and newer. Egr, dpr and def. Better fuel mileage. Bit still issues.
Engine year is typically one model year behind model year for chassis.Last edited: Jul 4, 2013
Mr Big Dog, 379exhd, MoGooder and 1 other person Thank this. -
Roughly the same as what they are on a truck that is newer. And you won the truck in a year instead of 2 or 3. Just another option to think about. Me personally I wouldn't want a newer truck it'd cost me more to redo everything to make it older but to each their own. This is good advise and something for the op to think about MNdriver. -
Best of both worlds , a glider kit. New truck with a reman engine and trans. Two of the three have to be "used" . I have been kicking around buying a powered glider. A reman motor factory installed. That way all under hood systems have factory warranty . PS , AC , engine , and wiring all have full factory coverage. Huge savings over buying "new". Eaton offers a reman transmission in almost every choice. Reman rear end chunks are easy to get in any ratio. Many shops now offer turn key gliders. Local freight liner dealer is building 40 gliders for the company I work for. We are supplying cores from trucks we were going to junk out. If done correct you can save 40% on cost, then 12% on FET. As long as Cali is not in your plans!
knuckledragger Thanks this. -
I am running a 1984 359 and for the first 3 years it cost .20 per mile for all maintenance on 120k miles. When we worked on it we always made it better with fuel mileage in mind. we are now doing PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE AND DO NOT THROW PARTS AT IT !! The last 18 mos our maintenance as been .17 per mile, fuel .49 & fixed cost .10 = .76 total. FOR ALL MY COST!! Dont write and say I
missed something. I purchased my first truck in 1980 and have had my own Authority 1994. DOT 515462. 7FB Cat, 13sp direct drive, 11R24.5 36" flat top, Flat Bed. We use quick books. Use Rig Dig when purchasing used equipment and look for reasons not to buy a truck. -
Some good info, bit something to think about if you know someone at a dealer you can have them run the Vin# and be able to tell you the history and all updates and dealer repairs, you can also have the truck hooked to a computer, dealer specific software and see the truck milage hours and updates on the truck
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With that said, the truck model years to look for to be assured of a pre-EGR original engine is 2002 or newer. 2003 was the cut-off year. Some early 03's still got pre-EGR, and the later ones had EGR. The one notable exception to this is Mercedes. Since they were not one of the North American engine manufacturers involved in the shenanigans of the late 1990's, they did not need to agree to the accelerated time schedule, so they complied on the original schedule. Look at any 2003 or 2004 truck with an original Mercedes engine for a pre-EGR version and be cautious of the 2005's.
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