2007 387 some issues needs resolving

Discussion in 'Peterbilt Forum' started by Walleye05, Apr 14, 2015.

  1. Walleye05

    Walleye05 Light Load Member

    68
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    Sep 5, 2012
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    Hello,

    I just recently purchased a 2007 387 as my first truck yesterday, however there are some minor issues that does not affect driveablity except one issue, wiper water pump, that I would like to fix on my own.

    1.) The windshield wiper water pump does not work, I am wondering if a universal pump would work? I am not sure if my local truck parts store would have the correct OEM style in stock. I will be checking around this week but would like to know if a universal one will work. This issue needs to be fixed asap so I can pass DOT inspection to get a new tag.

    2.) 6 gauges don't work and don't light up, front, rear drive axle oil temp, transmission temp, pyro, air load, and air filtration. It seems common that those don't work as the previous job I had as a driver, the company trucks most gauges didn't work, they were KW T600's.

    Is it normally a gauge issue, or wire issue, or sensor issue?

    3.) The fridge, it looks like its factory as I have seen it in other 387's that I have checked while looking for the one I got. It doesn't work at all, nothing runs no noise at all. I tried playing with the fridge power switch on the bunk control panel with no luck. This was while engine was running.

    4.) Dome light switch does not work as well too. From your experience is it normally the switch itself? All the dome lights work once I open the door. But no way to get it all to turn on when closed.

    5.) Driver's mirror, it shakes so BAD while the passenger mirror holds very good. Can it be tightened up if I start taking the shroud off? Also it has exterior temperature which does not work, is it fixable or does that mean I need to buy a whole new mirror unit?

    Let me know, I plan to jump into and work on these issues this weekend before I start detailing the truck.
     
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  3. FLATBED

    FLATBED Road Train Member

    Did you not see that these items failed to work before you bought it , should have made it part of the deal to get EVERYTHING working before handing over $, fridge could get costly if it needs replacing
     
  4. Walleye05

    Walleye05 Light Load Member

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    Sep 5, 2012
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    I got the truck for a great deal plus some freebies. I knew those items weren't working, its not a big issue about those. I like working on vehicles, and I don't get to work on much anymore like I used to, I'm actually anxious to jump in and fix things, and then clean it up this weekend.
     
    FLATBED Thanks this.
  5. Dr_Fandango44

    Dr_Fandango44 Road Train Member

    1,053
    745
    Aug 27, 2012
    Austin, TX
    0
    My first truck was a 2006 Pete 387 and gave me a lot of trouble. I hope you have better luck with yours, because it really is a nice truck to drive. The gauge issue is an old standing problem with that model. My issue was the gauges going haywire. Took it to the Pete dealer in Houston. They told me it was the modular unit behind the dash that controls all the gauges. Cost me around $2500 to fix and it never got rid of all the bugs, totally. So that issue could be costly. Something that perhaps only a Peterbilt dealer can diagnose. You could do with a guy that is a wizard with electrics to figure it out.
    If the fridge doesn't work, why not buy another that's new and fresh. Personally, I wouldn't want to use a fridge that's been used and now won't work. They're not cheap but you can buy a replacement at truckfridge.com.
    The OEM wiper pump costs around $55 and its a tiny thing. Not sure if you can use an aftermarket one. The dome light could be anything so I would play around with it. Mine stopped working because it blew on the inside panel board. Cost me about $275 to replace. Nothing cheap on anything these days. But if you got a good deal, then invest the $$$ savings on fixing it up.
    Also I would have the turbo and EGR cooler/valve checked out too. Those went on mine over time. Both repairs as you know are costly.
    Good luck.
     
  6. RSQ20

    RSQ20 Medium Load Member

    Of course,most of these electrical issue could be chased down with a $5.00 meter or test light...

    ... Philip
     
  7. JackZ

    JackZ Bobtail Member

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    Jul 7, 2011
    Winston-Salem, NC
    0
    I have a 2006 387 but I'm guessing yours is the same. On the 387 the dash gauges are interconnected ("daisychained") with 5-conductor data cables ~12" long with a plastic connector on each end. The gauges that you're having a problem with sound like the ones that are all on the top right instrument panel (the B panel) and since they don't even light up, it sounds like they may not be connected or the wire may be broken. I suggest that you look behind the B panel and check to make sure that one of the gauges in that cluster is connected by one of the data cables to one of the gauges in the top left instrument panel (the A panel) cluster. If they're not, get a cable and connect it between the gauge clusters and they will probably work.

    I have also included a web link below to the Ametek-Dixson service manual for this gauge system (Ametek-Dixson was the manufacturer of this system).
    www.ametekvis.com/download/Peterbilt%20387.pdf




     
  8. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    2,203
    Jan 7, 2013
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    The correct pump is about $40 and easy to change, I'd just get the right one. 1st make sure that it has power and ground to the motor.

    Your gauges are multiplexed. Pull that panel and make sure that they're plugged in. It has little jumper that go from gauge to gauge. Very doubtful that 6 failed. If they are all plugged in, trace the jumpers and bypass the 1st gauge that doesn't work to see if the others start working. If one gauge gets unplugged, any gauges after it will stop working.

    I've never had a 387 mirror apart, but on the 379's, you can buy just the outside temp sensor for about $35. The part # is hard to find, so I've heard of dealers telling people that no parts are available, but they do sell them if you find a dealer willing to find it. The part # for a 379 is H16702AT, not sure if they used the same one on a 387. They list is as a OAT sensor (outside air temp).
     
    Walleye05 and QUALITYTRUCK Thank this.
  9. Walleye05

    Walleye05 Light Load Member

    68
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    Sep 5, 2012
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    Finally got time today to work on the gauges, but first about the windshield water pump, the motor indeed was done. last weekend I went to 2 parts store, NAPA had one the same diameter, and same end for pickup, and electrical connectors, just the connector and pump body was a little longer. But it worked and fit in the snap in bracket just fine. 24 bucks.

    Now about the gauges, the rear drive oil temp, i noticed when it was dark, it was lighted up but all 5 gauges weren't. So today I took the panel off, noticed one jumper, just like mentioned by others, was disconnected from the rear drive oil temp. That gauge is the first gauge to get the main data line in. So i plugged it back in, everything worked! However now the front drive oil temp's warning light is flashing. I went ahead and checked the sensor on the front drive, it was disconnected. I didn't get chance to work on it for long, but did try and clean the gunk off the sensor then tried to plug the connector back on. It just wouldn't stay on and didn't feel like it was in contact with the sensor. Tomorrow I will clean it out better and try something out like a new connector made. See if it will work.

    No wonder why that guy disconnected it, the flashing warning light is annoying to drive with so he unhooked it. He could have just simply switched the jumper off that gauge and go to the next gauge so then all other gauges would still work. I tried it that way and all 5 work just fine. It's a nice feeling that it was a simple connector issue to fix and to have those gauges especially pyrometer to work!

    Now I have a new issue, I never tested this before buying the truck, but the bunk blower for HVAC does not work. I checked fuse box, no fuse marked for the bunk blower motor. I checked the ciruit breaker in the passenger storage compartment, there's no red light. I'm going to have to fiddle around with the connectors under the bed and give the blower its own test 12v to see if it runs to ensure the motor itself is fine.

    Is there a fuse or breaker for that blower hidden somewhere that I do not know?
     
  10. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

    2,215
    2,203
    Jan 7, 2013
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    I'm not sure on 387's, never worked on one. On 379 & 389's there is a relay in the bunk for the blower and I've had to change a few of them. I think the fuse and relays are labeled HVAC or something like that.
     
  11. Walleye05

    Walleye05 Light Load Member

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    Sep 5, 2012
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    I got a new relay for the HVAC in the passenger compartment, that didn't help at all.. I didn't get chance to dig into the wires and blower yet.

    I have another question, my friend came up to visit me today, we went for a ride earlier. I noticed that I don't like the accelerator pedal how it works. It has like almost 2 inches of downward play before the ecu sees that I am pressing down on the pedal. I tried doing a calibration known to many electronic pedals, which is key on, press and let go pedal slowly 3 times then key off. Start and see if it made difference. It did not, I even tried again by pushing down and let go 5 times. No difference.

    Is there a way I can adjust/calibrate this without needing INSITE?
     
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