COULD SOMEONE EXPLAIN TO ME HOW TO FLOAT GEARS. I'M GETTING TIRED OF DOUBLE CLUTCHING. EVERYONE SAYS IS EASY, BUT WHEN I TRY IT ALL I GET IS GRINDING. PLEASE EXPLAIN TO ME HOW TO DO IT. I ALREADY HAVE ONE LEG STRONGER AND BULKIER THAN THE OTHER ONE DUE TO THE WORK OUT I'M GETTING BY DOUBLE CLUTCHIN

It takes timing and coordination yankeefan. I will try and explain. You have a shift window for each gear. The top of the shift window will be around 1600 or 1700 rpm's on your tach. The low end of that shift window will be around 1200 to 1300 rpm's. When up shifting you need to pull the gear shift out of (lets say 1st gear for just starting out) gear, and stop in the neutral position. Let the rpm's drop (meaning you take your foot OFF the throttle) about 400 hundred revs. When the tach shows 1300 you pull the gear shift into second gear from the neutral position. If your timing is correct the gear will slide right in with no grinding. After getting the gear shift into 2nd gear you will then accelerate to 1600 to 1700 rpm's. Pull the gear shift out of gear (stopping in the neutral position) while simultaneously taking your foot off the throttle to let the rpms's drop to the low end of the shift window. When you see the needle dropping to 1300 push the gear shift to the 3rd gear position. When the stick is in 3rd gear then accelerate again. Repeat this process for each gear. Downshifting is the same concept except now you will have to rev up the engine when in the neutral position. So when the tach drops to around 1300 rpm's you will pull the gear shift (lets say 10th gear) out of 10th gear into the neutral position and then with a quick tap of the throttle shoot your rpm's up to 1700. Slide the stick shift into the next lowest gear.
For real pros that use "progressive shifting" they will use the idle as their low end of the shift window. They concept is still the same though. They will shift out at say 1000 rpms to 1100 rpms then pull the gear shift to neutral and let the tach drop to the idle setting before going for the next gear. This will result in better fuel economy and if anyone is watching and listening a much quieter shift with little to no engine hop (when the engine revs and actually tilts upon the motor mounts causing the front end to actually rise on 1 side).
Floating gears takes time and is a valuable skill to have. In the event you ever have your clutch fail you can still drive. Starting the truck from a dead stop requires alot of force however and may result in broken teeth in the transmission or flywheel so be very careful.
Many drivers will use an engine brake for pulling the engine rpm's down faster so they can speed shift to the next gear when up shifting. I do not recommend doing this. Use the engine brake for the mountains and not flat ground or truckstops.

When I traveled with my band, our tour bus was a Silver Eagle with the old 4 speed. Not many could drive it without tearing it up. You had to clutch to come out of gear into neutral, but then float into the next gear by feeling the rpm's and catching it in the sweet spot. It was strange at first, but it would really go when you got the hang of it. The first gear was a real "granny", but being a 4 speed, the gears were so far apart, it seemed like it took forever to go from one gear to the next. Kinda Fun!!!

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Holy Shoot, I didnt know you could shift without using the clutch.

My leg got all tired just from driving the thing around the parking lot. I will surely cut and paste this, better yet, pummel my trainer to show me how!

Love the picture of your weenie dog, newbiewanna. I have wanted a miniature one for a good 10 years now. I have a pit tho, so not too sure how that will mix up. I think she might try to play with it to death. Do you take yours on the truck with you??

One of the major reasons most buses are automatics is the problems of having the shift linkage being 25-30 foot long. You either had an incredibly long cable doing the work, or some sort of servos and actuators shifting the bus. The linkage in old cabover tracrtors was bad enough, and it was usually only 6-8 foot long. At least on a conventional tractor, the stick goes right down into the trans to do it's work.

This Eagle bus was a 45 footer with an extension to 48 feet and a raised roof, with dual rear axles. They last forever, but they're very picky. (maintenance is essential) Greyhound would run them 1 million miles, then sell them to Continental Trailways, who would run them over 500, 000 miles, then sell them. Some Bands and Gospel Groups would buy them, convert the interior and run them another 10 to 15 years!!! There are alot of them out there right now, that were built in the 60's and 70's, still going strong and running bands to over 250 dates a year across the country. We just sold our 1979 to another band who is going from Florida to California as we speak!!! The engines are mounted sideways AND the engine runs BACKWARDS!!! I can't tell you the number of times I've pulled into a truck service place, and the mechanic took one look in the engine compartment and said, "No Way!!! Take it someplace else." You are right about the linkage and controls. You are driving and shifting up front, like a cab-over, but 45 feet back, the engine and transmission are being manipulated and controlled. There aren't many vehicles out there that drive, operate or feel like a bus. It's 48 feet, but no hinge in the middle like a tractor trailer. Kinda like driving a truck that's 45 feet long, but very easy to back. Plus it sleeps, showers and relaxes 6 musicians for weeks at a time and hauls all of their instruments and sound equipment in the luggage bays under the floor.

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