Cracks in Reefer Crossmembers

Discussion in 'Refrigerated Trucking Forum' started by Catliner, Apr 10, 2014.

  1. Catliner

    Catliner Light Load Member

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    Im about to replace the wood in the floor of a 2000 Wabash 53' Spread Axle reefer. At least I believe its wood, Has anyone ever replaced the sub floor in a reefer? the crossmembers are cracking on average of 9 to 10 loads. Ive welded 3/8 alum plates over the area but I would like to fix the problem at the source rather than replace the whole trailer.......Figuring out if i cut the Duct floor out from the top or do I start removing the cross members from the bottom. Attempting this in the upcoming week. Positive input is appreciated.
     
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  3. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Cut out the floor is the wrong way. If not under the axle frame area it's fairly easy. Drop the crossmembers,replace the furring strips and put back in place. Have to string the crossmembers and cut the furring to fit.

    If under the frame you have to cut it loose,jack the trailer up(or skid out the subframe and finish the same way.

    It is a big job to do the whole trailer.
     
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  4. Catliner

    Catliner Light Load Member

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    Just doing the rear portion where the forklift punched holes and let it rot
     
  5. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Unless you really enjoy beating yourself up I would have a decent trailer shop do it. If they are above the spreads frame then you have to either cut the frame loose at each cross member or leave them attached and remove each cross member from the rails. Either way you then have to get the trailer up a couple of feet or skid the sub frame out. If you've soaked up any moisture then you have to rip out all the urethane and have it re-sprayed. You can use cans of spray foam to fill back in around the furring strips but not to completely foam the cavity. Then you need all new kemlite to replace and seal before lowering it back down.

    14 year old trailer you will most likely find that you have to keep moving forward as the foam will be saturated and the furring bad. If one part of the floor is stiff and the next part flexes it will crack the floor.
     
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  6. Catliner

    Catliner Light Load Member

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    Yeah I'm going to do the whole rear, drop the spread and use my fork lift to raise it.
     
  7. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    You'll need a soon to be ex-friend to help.
     
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  8. sdaniel

    sdaniel Road Train Member

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    Use jack stands , never trust the forklift to hold when working under any thing ! Be safe !
     
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  9. Catliner

    Catliner Light Load Member

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    Using railroad blocks to hold the trailer up. Decided to do the whole floor. It will be cheaper than have the trailer break again in the next few years. One section at a time. Getting fresh sheets of kemlite from the refridgerator supply. The trailer broke on the road and Had to get it fixed at a welding shop that didnt know what they were doing. They patched the top and never fixed the crossmember that broke. It bent the slider pin rail so A complete overhaul is in order and a new driver of my equipment may be in the future, Now that the trailer is home it can be done right
     
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  10. Catliner

    Catliner Light Load Member

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    Scrapped the Trailer, stored the unit until needed. Once the floor is gone and you tear it all out you begin to ask yourself......What the hell am i doing?
     
    wichris Thanks this.
  11. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    Seem's like a lot of work doesn't it? That 7-9K to a trailer shop is cheap sometimes.
     
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