2009 Volvo continually burns out starters

Whats the outline if you can post it please? I have been doing maintenance on the sensors myself and following the regular DPF maintenance guidelines from volvo but last year still had alot of trouble. I would like to avoid it f I can this winter because I did have to spend far too much on avoidable repairs last winter.

 

Outline is drop it off to them like I said, and they deal with it. They update the ECM when they do the filter, I know that is hugely important. They service manager also told me once, never to mess with the sensors, just replace them as they go, but when one goes, the ECM must be recalibrated or updated, or things get weird.

 

Check for fuel pump and injectors if it take long to start

 

The problem is starter design and uneducated American mechanics.
I have one starter burned on my truck and starter burning and cranking engine on my buddy's truck. when grease monkey working in area close to the starter wires they do not pay attention what they are touching and how. Starter relay wire is really tiny and isolation is really bad. Once wire got touching to the starter body (ground) by the grabbing mechanic hand it just matter of time when plastic isolation will be destroyed and wire short to the ground.
Now relay contact is closed solenoid is ON ad starter is running all the time until burned. When mechanic is putting new starter in place they grab it by the same style. They never check what they did. They are certified and confident. Unfortunately I lost pictures on my old phone which wire is cause. I'll ask my buddy if he still have his.
P.S. All problem I have with engine surprisingly were after PM service. So now immediately after PM service I do check wire harness around oil and fuel filters where monkey were poking.

 

Im tempted to ask if you are not making sure you have a big starter put on. Something that will stand up to anything your batteries feed. Heat destroys parts really fast, particularly computer or digital based parts, relays etc feeding it. I am wondering why do they even put on so much crap to a basic starter cylinder which itself is a giant stator driven by two big bolted cables straight via a key turn. Why cannot be simple? ARgh.

The one time I ever had starter issues was with a R model mack, the right hand side behind the right steer sat the solenoid which with a bic pen driven in from the bottom manually cranked that starter. That giant solenoid was a goodie. You can crank it from the key button or from the bic pen. Either way that motor is going to get fed all the batteries have. You did have one rule, give it 15 seconds to rest every 10 seconds of crank or you burn it out.

Air starters were more reliable. But you must keep that engine in good condition and hooked to a warmer in winter because 10 seconds is all you are gonna get, maybe a bit longer when she starts to cough and fire on a few cylinders building compression to turn over with a roar.

If you really want some fun, listen to Union Pacific cranking the locomotives with air start. They feed such a ungodly amount of air from all the earth's atmosphere until the #### thing coughs to life or the output freezes over.