2012-2013Kenworth t700 cummings

Cummins.

 

I have a 10 speed with about the same mileage. Bought it new. It still drives rock solid. We've had zero issues with ours. Just have to get the dpf baked once a year or so.

 

You better hope your dpf doesn't get popped for a random, bro.

 

What do you mean? I meant we take to KW dealer to have DPF filter baked in the oven when it start's getting clogged.

Sorry - my 2013 is a T660. Rock solid.
My 2011 is a T700. Looks nice. Spent a fortune the first year working out the bugs - glad I bought it from that guy a year later

 

My 12 T660 has some bugs... but easy enough to work out.

 

T700 was just a warmed over T2000. Not a design I'm particularly fond of, especially when we get into how the bumper brackets have one bolt each directly under the radiator. Interior's kinda flimsy, moving the headlights to the hood was a definite improvement over the 2000. Battery box is a hell of a lot easier to get to, as is the 90 fitting atop the transmission which is always prone to leakage, since you only have six bolts on each side to remove in order to take the skirts off.
Of course, the electronic components are all multiplexed, which makes some sense in some instances, but absolutely none in others. Case in point, windshield washer pumps - they've operated fine for many moons without any need to reinvent the wheel in order for them to function, so there's no ####ing good reason to make them be wired into a harness which goes back to the ####ing chassis node (making the wiring harness conveniently run behind the SCR, by the way), but some 'genius' engineer apparently is prone to disagree about that.
If you're interested in learning how to replace oil pan gaskets and fuel pump seals, the ISX is good for that. Check the dosing injector - if it's red, I'd insist the dealership replace it before I committed to buying the truck, because they do go tits up, you're in the right mileage range for it to, and they're going to flag you for 11 hours to replace it. Also make sure there's no leakage from the rear structure and crank seal. First thing I'd do is add some UV dye to the oil and check it with a UV light nightly, especially during the time when it should still be under warranty from the dealership.

 

WitchingHour, I agree with most of your assessment. What's that about a red dosing injector? Can you tell me more about that tidbit?