Air tank drain valve replacement

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Hanadarko, Dec 17, 2010.

  1. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    I put new KW pull-cord style valves on my W9 last spring ($12 each).
    Well as expected, the ice and crap is causing me issues with freezing up and/or leaking.

    I want to replace these with some sort of 'stay open' manual valve, so I can let them drain out at night during the summer and yet not worry about them when its really cold out.

    I am thinking of something like this (sort of..)

    [​IMG]

    ..anyone have any recommendations?
     
  2. Flying Finn

    Flying Finn Heavy Load Member

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    Those would work. Even any sort of air compressor tank valve would work. Some will do an auto drain function when below something like 8 psi. I'm with you, either those cable operated valves freeze up, gunk up from dirt and crud or the cable breaks off.
     
  3. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    use brass--with some sealant--the only bad part is you have to crawl under that low beast to turn them
    did you service your air dryer?
    generally you dont have to leave them open like on worn out construction equipment as the amount of water and oil is usually very small
    the pull ones work so nice--i just pull them while i am fueling
     
  4. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    Yea well I did that today. Pulled it while fueling and it stuck OPEN :biggrin_25524:

    ..had to crawl under the rig and beat the #### out of it until it stopped hissing. Stupid....I was warned. I didnt heed the advice.
    They work good in the warm weather...really good. But they do gunk up and any water that shoots out of them when its really cold and it freezes the valve open....

    :biggrin_25513:

    Anyone know what size these are on a KW ? I am thinking 3/8" but not sure.
     
  5. blackw900

    blackw900 <strong>The Grandfather of Flatbed</strong>

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    First thing I do when I get a new truck is pull those P.O.S. cable valves off and #### can them!
    They're worthless junk and will stick/leak when you least expect it.
     
  6. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    that is their bad point--doesnt take much to screw them up
    you could throw some methyle hydrate in the compressor outlet line and get rid of the water
    one place i worked--we used alcohol injectors in the air system--and the tanks were always nice and dry
    but i am not sure if that is really reccomended or not
     
  7. dairyman

    dairyman <b> Hopper Thread Greeter</b>

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    I actually use 1/2 inch brass ball valves with 3/8 reducers on mine, Hanadarko, and put a 90 degree piece of plumbing pipe so i can reach it without climbing underneath. It probably is a little over-kill,but the ball valves don't ever leak and i hated the factory pull string valves too,but my 'ole 20 year old Pete may be totally different underneath than your W9.

    I am enjoying following your adventure,and for what it's worth,i think your going about the right way,imo:biggrin_25525:
     
    Hanadarko Thanks this.
  8. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    99&#37; of ais tank drain threads are 1/4 NPT.
    You can run a 5/16 plastic line from each tank and make a manifold remotly mounted. Then you can drain the tanks without crawling under.
     
  9. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    While I appreciate the suggestion, does anyone else see the possible inherent issue here?

    Plastic Pipe+Cold Air+Water Vapor=.......

    :biggrin_25512:
     
  10. Prairie Boy

    Prairie Boy Road Train Member

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    If there's water in them, service your air dryer.