DD13/DD15 dpf/EGR upkeep

Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by richardj87, Sep 2, 2013.

  1. richardj87

    richardj87 Bobtail Member

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    The fleet I work for has recently bought 6 Casscadias with these engines 2010s-2013s with a rumor of a few more being looked at for purchase so we can keep running California.

    I have read the ISX 871 tune up page and was wondering if there are any good tips/ practices for the detroit engine. Anything would be much appreciated i have been spending lots of my free time trying to play Catch up and learn what I can about these engines, DPF, and SCR systems to keep the trucks rolling down the road so everyone stays happy and keeps making money.

    Thank you in advance :)
     
  2. cl8936

    cl8936 Light Load Member

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    You said you read "ISX 871" page but want tips / practices for Detroit? Do the cascadias have dd15 or the cummins ISX? The biggest thing our road assist tells us to do with the def system is keep the air tanks drained, especially in winter. The def uses the truck air and if any water mixes with the def it can apparently really damage the system.
     
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  3. richardj87

    richardj87 Bobtail Member

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    my bad i should have cleared that up 1 has an ISX the rest of them have DD13 and DD15
     
  4. sdaniel

    sdaniel Road Train Member

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    Limit idle time. If you need to idle a long time ( couple hours or more) set it to high idle. Great improvement over the 08 era emissions!
     
  5. 25(2)+2

    25(2)+2 Trucker Forum STAFF Staff Member

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    Idling over 7or 8 hours will probably get the DPF light flashing, if you can drive off with it, it will do a passive regen . Forced regen takes about 9 minutes on mine.

    The 2013 I drive will do this. I don't know about earlier ones, some will use less def fluid, but the newer ones seem to get better fuel mileage. High idle is a must, set at 900 rpm by the tach.

    We have def at the shop, I have only had to fill mine once in over 100k miles, the thing is, the bulk def seems to work good, adding from a jug is messy.Only use unopened packages to fill from the jug. We have the 23 gallon tanks on the ones we drive and mine held 20 gallons at the point of derating to 55 mph top speed.
     
  6. magoo68

    magoo68 Heavy Load Member

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    1; If engine develops a miss at idle and doesnt show a code it may be the fuel meter .its amazing how much better mine runs after getting changed .it was a $245 part and took shop 2 hrs with computer reset book says 4 hr job though . 2: if u keep getting codes and/or cutting out wiggle engine harnesses to see if engine cuts out. its a pretty common problem that gets overlooked and ends up costing money changing parts that are still good . 3 avoid idling as often as possible they are really good motors when not idled .but can get codes when idled excessively always use high idle if idling is necessary to keep dpf clean . when running in cold winter weather a winter front is needed to help get exhaust temp up to do proper dpf burn offs . i like to run my engine fan for a couple minutes to cool turbo and underhood air down before shutdown .im still on stock turbo and starter .motor never been opened except for overhead in 1 .2 millon km roughly 750000 miles still zero oil consumption in 25000 mile oil changes
     
  7. porkchop_express

    porkchop_express Bobtail Member

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    Don't know how much you have had to deal with the one you have, so if you already know some of this stuff I apologize.




    1.) Burnt out bulbs can cause the check engine light to come on now, so before you take it down to the dealer, make sure that none of the lights have burnt out before you make a trip down there


    2.) If you are changing the DPF filters yourself, you will need to input the serial number off the new DPF filter with the Detroit software. If you don't have the software you will have to take it somewhere to have it done. If you don't put in the new serial number, the engine will start to derate after so many miles. (I would highly suggest you get the software if you don't already have it)


    3.) You may find that the settings you want to put in for idle times will not take in the Detroit software, if thats the case you will have to take it to the dealer to have them completely erase and re-flash the ECM. It hasn't been a big problem for us, but we have 3 trucks that this had to be done to.


    4.) with all of this talk, if you try to use the Detroit software you may find that it prompts you for a password before you make any changes. This is supposed to be removed at the factory, but for some reasons we have had a number of Casciada's show up with this password still enabled. If it happens the password will be either 0000 or 1111


    5.) The windshields will most likely leak like hell.


    6.) When you change the filters, getting the prime back can be a major pain. Detroit makes a special air operated system that you can connect tot he quick coupler near the priming plunger, but we just bought plastic insecticide sprayers and put the required quick coupler on the end of it and use that. You can buy the coupler from the parts department. The part number for a 3/5 coupler is a 3376859


    7.) Changing any dash switches will require a trip to the dealer, as it has to be re-enabled in the ECM, which can only be done by software the dealer has.


    8.) Check the hubs on all drive axles. They are regularly loose on the new Cascadia's we get from the dealer, so checking them when you inspect it and put it in to service will save you trouble a few weeks down the road.


    9.) If you have to take the bumper off for any reason, be sure to look for and disconnect the ambient air temperature sensor that is mounted in the bumper. If it gets damaged the A/C will quit working




    I know there is a lot more stuff, but this is everything I can think of off the top of my head at the moment. If I think of anything else I will let you know.
     
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  8. Roughridertransport

    Roughridertransport Bobtail Member

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    always drain air tanks with def system or you will have issues!
     
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