I live in north AL. one morning years ago, maybe 4-5 I went to start truck up. it started & I watched the fuel in the davco run below the sight glass, then the struck shut off, starved for fuel. gel or ice? I dont know. later that day, I changed the filter & filled it with new fuel & it started up, it was 50 degrees when I changed filter. when i first started it, it was in the teens with a 20 m.p.h wind. so much for if your in the south your o.k. on gelling or icing. I do believe that if my truck was running the whole time, as it would of been if i was away from home & in my truck, it would not have had a problem.
fuel filter heater
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But like (Oil field trash)'s like was stating, your problem wasn't because of geling but this new ULSD fuel , the wax in the fuel will stop up your filters when sitting cold. They would say change to a less restritive filter but also less protection for the injectors.
Lets all go back to running off road diesel(Farm fuel). Oh yeah, they took the sulfur out of that too.
I've heard biodiesel is better but I think that is just a myth.
Not that I disagree with their points of fuel icing and wax dropout, I just wonder how reliable information is coming from a manuafacture promoting it's own product.
I'm not too worried about fuel tanks, just bought 2x500watt heat pads from wolverine and in pan oil heater , just took a look at filter housing and there is plug on the bottom and some wires comming out, is that some sensor or heater?
I'm using generator to plug those in
The Davco filter system is by far the best system, Detroit use to double the injector warranty if you had the truck built with the system.
If it is getting colder and you come in from a trip, draining the filter housing is easy and effective. When you shut off the truck wait a couple of minutes and drain the housing a couple of oz into a cup that way you can see the water or ice crystals. If it is real cold leave the key on to keep the heater on to heat the filter up and clean it out even better.
Taken from Davco sight
- A battery load test is recommended to ensure there is sufficient power for cold ambient starts.
- It is recommended to plug in block heaters while the engine is still warm as opposed to attempting to heat a cold engine with a block heater.
- If your DAVCO Fuel Processor has the optional 12VDC pre-heater, turn the ignition key to the "on" position. The DAVCO patented clear cover provides an easy visual to determine if the fuel is clouded. The fuel will be in a liquid form when it is heated above the cloud point with the optional pre-heater feature. (Note: Lab tests indicate 8-12 minutes of pre-heating can raise static fuel temperatures from 20°F up to 30°F.)
I also have the wolverine oil pan heater. though my type is the same as the water heater on detroits. it screws into the oil pan. getting that oil moving quicker is more important to me, than the coolant.
Starting after September the 15th, when a truck comes in for service the batteries should be disconnected, and separately charged with a Regulated charge, 10 amp works great. All the battery cables should be disconnected and cleaned and put on a little Die-electric grease, when assembling. I like to add a battery cable to the right front corner of all engines, to the frame to cut down on voltage going back threw the engine. That cuts down on phantom codes.
All the heating elements, and cords should be tested. You want an oil pan heater, and an immersion coolant heater. A circulating block heater that goes to the head is useless when it gets real cold. You need it circulating in the block. The way it was explained to me was you do not heat the water at the top of the water heater.
The batteries, should sit for a while before testing. It only works if you have one bad one to change them all. Old batteries and new ones charge at a different rate and the new batteries will boil and the old ones will not be charged.
Whether you plug the truck in hot depends on how long it is going to sit, and how cold it is. Cats you want to plug in longer than a Cummins or Detroit.
If you are in a cold climate, installing a belly tarp, from the back of the bumper to mid way on the transmission is a very good idea. Tied tight to the frame rails.
Having a winter front. If you have a fuel return cooler, covering it to keep the heat in.
If your route takes you north to south, you might want to buy your fuel at the north end of the route.
Change you wiper blades, if in doubt.
If you have summer wash fluid do not add anything untill it is very low, and buy that at the lowest temperature you can find. -40 fluid works great all year round and actually cleans better than the summer stuff. Those little pumps when they freeze, brake and are expensive.
Your heater, check the fan motor and switch is working and the cab filter is clean. Be sure the different, diverters for the heater ducting are working. Trying to find those little cylinders when it is cold is sometimes a problem. Be sure the AC is working it does make a difference for the windshield.
Be sure you coolant is at -50 or, a minimum of -34, should be kept all year round.
Your power steering, is the pump working properly, the fluid is it clean and full.
Just a thought!
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