Greasing question.

Anything on my truck and trailer that has a grease fitting gets greased every 10k

 

These information is available in the manual for your truck if you don't have one you can look up the diagram on line that's specific to your truck.
I grease every 7k in during winter months I'll let It go to 10k rest of the year

 

Driver side. Kingpin top and bottom. Pitman arm front and back. The tie rod end. Slack adjuster and s cam.

I get the clutch linkage from that side too, and steering shaft.

Move to passengers side. Repeat process.

Go to the rear and get each of the brakes - 4 s cams and slack adjusters. Take wrench under and check diff oil levels. Hit both drive shafts front and back, wriggling forward to gear box. There's a shaft on the side of the gear box to get too. There's a hose that hangs down for the thrust bearing, but only a pump or two for that, every second time.

Fifth wheel has a zerk on each side. And then the 5th wheel plate.

Oh - not too much in the s - cams.

Every 7000 miles, I use Schaeffers high pressure grease. And a De Walt cordless gun.

Apologies if I mis-named anything, I'm a new owner too.

Ask your mechanic if there's any others specific to your truck. My AG 200 suspension had some zerks in it.

I'd never done it before - asking questions helps.

Good luck, others feel free to correct me.

 

You'll find grease zerks on the spring shackles, both ends. And the kingpins, top and bottom, all the tie rod ends, drag link, pitman arm, any steering part that pivots. Slack adjusters and s-cams. Steering shaft will have some ujoints that need grease. Sometimes you'll find one on the clutch linkage near the firewall. There will be one in the clutch inspection cover..go easy! Too much here will just make a greasy mess of the clutch.Then all the u-joints. More slack adjusters and s-cams on rear axles.

Basically you need to look for any parts that look like they are designed to move or pivot and see how they are lubricated.. Look for the grease zerks. Think about how much each part needs to move in the course of its normal use. The u-joint on the steering shaft won't need anywhere near as much grease as the ones on the driveshaft. And don't over do it. Grease hanging off everything just gets slung all over your undercarraige and attracts dirt. Clean the zerk with a rag before and after greasing. Don't forget the fifth wheel

I do my truck every 5000 miles. Grease is cheaper than parts and breakdowns. Use a good quality grease rated NLGI 2 EP.

 

Pretty much everything that was stated above. I usually grease the steering linkages until I see the rubber boots begin to expand. I try to ensure that I see grease beginning to flow (key word: beginning, not gushing out) from all 4 crosses on each u-joint. That way you know for sure each end is getting lubrication. Always wipe off the grease fitting before putting the hose on, prevents you from pumping dirt directly into the part. Also a good time to inspect your truck for cracks, loose/worn parts, leaks, etc. Thorough grease job and inspection on a tractor should take about an hour.

 

Also a good time to grab the driveline and see if there is any play in the u-joints or yokes.

Another thing is not to grease so much that you are pushing it out of the rubber boots, as you have now just compromised the seals.

 

Some trucks (the T660 being one of them) have grease zerks on the hood hinges
There's the u-joints in the steering column (these are sealed on some trucks). There may be one on the shaft from the power steering pump to the Pitman arm. There should be zerks at both ends of the drag link. There's the upper and lower kingpins and the tie rods. Your transmission may have either one or three zerk fittings. If you have a linkage clutch, you might have some on that. You might have them on them on the spring pins. U-joints on the driveshafts might have them, or they might be sealed. The s-cam housing will have a zerk, as will each of your slack adjusters.
I'm partial to grease with an EP2 rating. On the road, a cordless would probably be the way to go... I use a DeWalt 20v which I found for $160 on Amazon (tool only - I already have six of those batteries). If you can, I'd put the steer axle on jack stands before greasing those components. Also check your kingpins for play and wheel bearings while it's up there... I use a 54" prybar for this task. Keep extra zerks handy, as well as the wrenches to change them (most will require a 7/16"). Don't do crack.

 

There are a lot of grease fittings on a truck. Mostly you will just need to look for them. On the front end you should have fittings on the steering, kingpins, tie rods and drag link, hood, and then work your way down the drive line which includes the throw out bearing, u-joints and then to anything else that has a fitting in between. Don't forget the fifth wheel. There should be fittings on each side and you should also put grease on the plate. You can never use too much grease. I have known some who grease half way between their pm. Some every couple of weeks, one guy I remember used to grease his truck every week when he got home. Bearings dry out and rain or snow can wash out grease, so it is important to keep grease in those fittings.

 

When greasing your kingpins, put a few squirts in with the full weight on the wheel, jack it up a few thousand pounds and put a few more squirts then jack the weight completely off the ground and put in a few more squirts again.