Lost my Clutch

Scottie,
Labor Intensive but relatively simple once they separate the Transmission from the Engine.
1. ALWAYS RESURFACE the FLYWHEEL.
2. BUY A NEW CLITCH, Never a REBUILT Clutch. (Cost difference very minor)
3. If the Rear Main Seal looks "OK"...
CHANGE IT ANYWAY, cheap and your there anyway.
4. GET THE WARRANTY IN WRITING, NEVER BELIEVE SHOP "SAYING THEY WILL WARRANT THEIR WORK" GET. IT. IN. WRITING!!!!
Should Cost between $3-4000 and 2 Days of Down Time, when the shop starts the work, call ahead and ask.
5. Ask to SEE The Old Clutch, WHY DID IT FAIL, Old Age, 750k miles? 900k?
Driver Abuse? Information like that is Helpful in the long run.
Good Luck with the Repair.

 

Unless you've had that truck since new I wouldn't assume that's the original clutch.

 

Just on the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing. Pilot bearing only spins when the pedal is pushed in. Throw out bearing spins all the time but its only spinning under load when the clutch is pressed.

 

Not to throw a monkey wrench in the conversation but it is also very possible you broke one of the clutch rods if it's T660 is has about 4 to 5 different rod between the pedal and actual clutch fork.

 

no more than 2500 that includes everything if you do it in a dealer probably around 3000 to 3500

 

1500 tops , parts and labor , at regular shops