Time on pretrip? - Page 4 - Truckers' Trucking Forum | Message Board

MGASSEL · **^ Top** #31 08.08.2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by CulliganMan

Pre-Trip Vehicle Inspection

do all this in less then 15 minutes and I'll give you a cigar!

Ready, GO!!! I'M counting...

11.1.1 Engine Compartment (Engine Off)

Leaks/Hoses

Look for puddles on the ground.
Look for dripping fluids on underside of engine and transmission.
Inspect hoses for condition and leaks.

Oil Level

Indicate where dipstick is located.
See that oil level is within safe operating range. Level must be above refill mark.

Coolant Level

Inspect reservoir sight glass, or
(If engine is not hot), remove radiator cap and check for visible coolant level.

Power Steering Fluid

Indicate where power steering fluid dipstick is located.
Check for adequate power steering fluid level. Level must be above refill mark.

Engine Compartment Belts

Check the following belts for snugness (up to 3/4 inch play at center of belt), cracks, or frays:
- Power steering belt.
- Water pump belt.
- Alternator belt.
- Air compressor belt.

Note: If any of the components listed above are not belt driven, you must:

Tell the examiner which component(s) are not belt driven.
Make sure component(s) are operating properly, are not damaged or leaking, and are mounted securely.

Clutch/Gearshift

Depress clutch.
Place gearshift lever in neutral (or park, for automatic transmissions).
Start engine, then release clutch slowly.

11.1.2 – Cab Check/Engine Start

Oil Pressure Gauge

Make sure oil pressure gauge is working.
Check that pressure gauge shows increasing or normal oil pressure or that the warning light goes off.
If equipped, oil temperature gauge should begin a gradual rise to the normal operating range.

Temperature Gauge

Make sure the temperature gauge is working.
Temperature should begin to climb to the normal operating range or temperature light should be off.

Ammeter/Voltmeter

Check that gauges show alternator and/or generator is charging or that warning light is off.

Mirrors and Windshield

Mirrors should be clean and adjusted properly from the inside.
Windshield should be clean with no illegal stickers, no obstructions, or damage to the glass.

Emergency Equipment

Check for spare electrical fuses.
Check for three red reflective triangles.
Check for a properly charged and rated fire extinguisher.

Note: If the vehicle is not equipped with electrical fuses, you must mention this to the examiner.

Steering Play

Non-power steering: Check for excessive play by turning steering wheel back and forth. Play should not exceed 10 degrees (or about two inches on a 20-inch wheel).
Power steering: With the engine running, check for excessive play by turning the steering wheel back and forth. Play should not exceed 10 degrees (or about two inches on a 20-inch wheel) before front left wheel barely moves.

Wipers/Washers

Check that wiper arms and blades are secure, not damaged, and operate smoothly.
If equipped, windshield washers must operate correctly.

Lights/Reflectors/Reflector Tape Condition (Sides & Rear)

Test that dash indicators work when corresponding lights are turned on:
- Left turn signal.
- Right turn signal.
- Four-way emergency flashers.
- High beam headlight.
- Anti-lock Braking System (ABS) indicator.
Check that all external lights and reflective equipment are clean and functional. Light and reflector checks include:
- Clearance lights (red on rear, amber elsewhere).
- Headlights (high and low beams).
- Taillights.
- Backing lights.
- Turn signals.
- Four-way flashers.
- Brake lights.
- Red reflectors (on rear) and amber reflectors (elsewhere).
- Reflector tape condition

Note: Checks of brake, turn signal and four-way flasher functions must be done separately.

Horn

Check that air horn and/or electric horn work.

Heater/Defroster

Test that the heater and defroster work.

Parking Brake Check

With the parking brake engaged (trailer brakes released on combination vehicles), check that the parking brake will hold vehicle by gently trying to pull forward with parking brake on.
With the parking brake released and the trailer parking brake engaged (combination vehicles only), check that the trailer parking brake will hold vehicle by gently trying to pull forward with the trailer parking brake on.

Hydraulic Brake Check

Pump the brake pedal three times, then hold it down for five seconds. The brake pedal should not move (depress) during the five seconds.
If equipped with a hydraulic brake reserve (back-up) system, with the key off, depress the brake pedal and listen for the sound of the reserve system electric motor.
Check that the warning buzzer or light is off.

Air Brake Check (Air Brake Equipped Vehicles Only)

Failure to perform all three components of the air brake check correctly will result in an automatic failure of the vehicle inspection test. Air brake safety devices vary. However, this procedure is designed to see that any safety device operates correctly as air pressure drops from normal to a low air condition. For safety purposes, in areas where an incline is present, you will use wheel chocks during the air brake check. The proper procedures for inspecting the air brake system are as follows:
- Shut off the engine, chock your wheels, if necessary, release the tractor protection valve and parking brake (push in), fully apply the foot brake and hold it for one minute. Check the air gauge to see if the air pressure drops more than three pounds in one minute (single vehicle) or four pounds in one minute (combination vehicle).
- Begin fanning off the air pressure by rapidly applying and releasing the foot brake. Low air warning devices (buzzer, light, flag) should activate before air pressure drops below 60 psi.
- Continue to fan off the air pressure. At approximately 40 psi on a tractor-trailer combination vehicle, the tractor protection valve and parking brake valve should close (pop out). On other combination vehicle types and single vehicle types, the parking brake valve should close (pop out).

Service Brake Check
You will be required to check the application of air or hydraulic service brakes. This procedure is designed to determine that the brakes are working correctly and that the vehicle does not pull to one side or the other.
Pull forward at 5 mph, apply the service brake and stop. Check to see that the vehicle does not pull to either side and that it stops when brake is applied.

Safety Belt

Check that the safety belt is securely mounted, adjusts, latches properly and is not ripped or frayed.

11.2.1– Steering

Steering Box/Hoses

Check that the steering box is securely mounted and not leaking. Look for any missing nuts, bolts, and cotter keys.
Check for power steering fluid leaks or damage to power steering hoses.

Steering Linkage

See that connecting links, arms, and rods from the steering box to the wheel are not worn or cracked.
Check that joints and sockets are not worn or loose and that there are no missing nuts, bolts, or cotter keys.

11.2.2 – Suspension

Springs/Air/Torque

Look for missing, shifted, cracked, or broken leaf springs.
Look for broken or distorted coil springs.
If vehicle is equipped with torsion bars, torque arms, or other types of suspension components, check that they are not damaged and are mounted securely.
Air ride suspension should be checked for damage and leaks.

Mounts

Look for cracked or broken spring hangers, missing or damaged bushings, and broken, loose, or missing bolts, u-bolts or other axle mounting parts. (The mounts should be checked at each point where they are secured to the vehicle frame and axle[s]).

Shock Absorbers

See that shock absorbers are secure and that there are no leaks.

Note: Be prepared to perform the same suspension components inspection on every axle (power unit and trailer, if equipped).
11.2.3 – Brakes

Slack Adjustors

Look for broken, loose, or missing parts.
For manual slack adjustors, the brake rod should not move more than one inch (with the brakes released) when pulled by hand.

Brake Chambers

See that brake chambers are not leaking, cracked, or dented and are mounted securely.

Brake Hoses/Lines

Look for cracked, worn, or leaking hoses, lines, and couplings.

Drum Brake

Check for cracks, dents, or holes. Also check for loose or missing bolts.
Brake linings (where visible) should not be worn dangerously thin.

Brake Linings

On some brake drums, there are openings where the brake linings can be seen from outside the drum. For this type of drum, check that a visible amount of brake lining is showing.

Note: Be prepared to perform the same brake components inspection on every axle (power unit and trailer, if equipped).
11.2.4 – Wheels

Rims

Check for damaged or bent rims. Rims cannot have welding repairs.

Tires

The following items must be inspected on every tire:
- Tread depth: Check for minimum tread depth (4/32 on steering axle tires, 2/32 on all other tires).
- Tire condition: Check that tread is evenly worn and look for cuts or other damage to tread or sidewalls. Also, make sure that valve caps and stems are not missing, broken, or damaged.
- Tire inflation: Check for proper inflation by using a tire gauge, or inflation by striking tires with a mallet or other similar device.

Note: You will not get credit if you simply kick the tires to check for proper inflation.
Hub Oil Seals/Axle Seals
See that hub oil/grease seals and axle seals are not leaking and, if wheel has a sight glass, oil level is adequate.
Lug Nuts
Check that all lug nuts are present, free of cracks and distortions, and show no signs of looseness such as rust trails or shiny threads.
Make sure all bolt holes are not cracked or distorted.
Spacers
If equipped, check that spacers are not bent, damaged, or rusted through.
Spacers should be evenly centered, with the dual wheels and tires evenly separated.
Note: Be prepared to perform the same wheel inspection on every axle (power unit and trailer, if equipped).
11.2.5 – Side of Vehicle</EM></STRONG>

Door(s)/Mirror(s)

Check that door(s) are not damaged and that they open and close properly from the outside.
Hinges should be secure with seals intact.
Check that mirror(s) and mirror brackets are not damaged and are mounted securely with no loose fittings.

Fuel Tank

Check that tank(s) are secure, cap(s) are tight, and that there are no leaks from tank(s) or lines.

Battery/Box

Wherever located, see that battery(s) are secure, connections are tight, and cell caps are present.
Battery connections should not show signs of excessive corrosion.
Battery box and cover or door must be secure.

Drive Shaft

See that drive shaft is not bent or cracked.
Couplings should be secure and free of foreign objects.

Exhaust System

Check system for damage and signs of leaks such as rust or carbon soot.
System should be connected tightly and mounted securely.

Frame

Look for cracks, broken welds, holes or other damage to the longitudinal frame members, cross members, box, and floor.

11.2.6 – Rear of Vehicle

Splash Guards

If equipped, check that splash guards or mud flaps are not damaged and are mounted securely.

Doors/Ties/Lifts

Check that doors and hinges are not damaged and that they open, close, and latch properly from the outside, if equipped.
Ties, straps, chains, and binders must also be secure.
If equipped with a cargo lift, look for leaking, damaged or missing parts and explain how it should be checked for correct operation.
Lift must be fully retracted and latched securely.

11.2.7 – Tractor/Coupling

Air/Electric Lines

Listen for air leaks. Check that air hoses and electrical lines are not cut, chafed, spliced, or worn (steel braid should not show through).
Make sure air and electrical lines are not tangled, pinched, or dragging against tractor parts.

Catwalk

Check that the catwalk is solid, clear of objects, and securely bolted to tractor frame.

Mounting Bolts

Look for loose or missing mounting brackets, clamps, bolts, or nuts. Both the fifth wheel and the slide mounting must be solidly attached.
On other types of coupling systems (i.e., ball hitch, pintle hook, etc.), inspect all coupling components and mounting brackets for missing or broken parts.

Locking Jaws

Look into fifth wheel gap and check that locking jaws are fully closed around the kingpin.
On other types of coupling systems (i.e., ball hitch, pintle hook, etc.), inspect the locking mechanism for missing or broken parts and make sure it is locked securely. If present, safety cables or chains must be secure and free of kinks and excessive slack.

Platform (Fifth Wheel)

Check for cracks or breaks in the platform structure which supports the fifth wheel skid plate.

Release Arm (Fifth Wheel)

If equipped, make sure the release arm is in the engaged position and the safety latch is in place.

Kingpin/Apron/Gap

Check that the kingpin is not bent.
Make sure the visible part of the apron is not bent, cracked, or broken.
Check that the trailer is laying flat on the fifth wheel skid plate (no gap).

Locking Pins (Fifth Wheel)

If equipped, look for loose or missing pins in the slide mechanism of the sliding fifth wheel. If air powered, check for leaks.
Make sure locking pins are fully engaged.
Check that the fifth wheel is positioned properly so that the tractor frame will clear the landing gear during turns.

11.4.1 – Trailer Front

Air/Electrical Connections

Check that trailer air connectors are sealed and in good condition.
Make sure glad hands are locked in place, free of damage or air leaks.
Make sure the trailer electrical plug is firmly seated and locked in place.

Header Board

If equipped, check the header board to see that it is secure, free of damage, and strong enough to contain cargo.
If equipped, the canvas or tarp carrier must be mounted and fastened securely.
On enclosed trailers, check the front area for signs of damage such as cracks, bulges, or holes.

11.4.2 – Side of Trailer

Landing Gear

Check that the landing gear is fully raised, has no missing parts, crank handle is secure, and the support frame is not damaged.
If power operated, check for air or hydraulic leaks.

Doors/Ties/Lifts

If equipped, check that doors are not damaged. Check that doors open, close, and latch properly from the outside.
Check that ties, straps, chains, and binders are secure.
If equipped with a cargo lift, look for leaking, damaged or missing parts and explain how it should be checked for correct operation.
Lift should be fully retracted and latched securely.

Frame

Look for cracks, broken welds, holes or other damage to the frame, cross members, box, and floor.

Tandem Release Arm/Locking Pins

If equipped, make sure the locking pins are locked in place and release arm is secured.

11.4.3 – Remainder of Trailer

Remainder of Trailer

Please refer to Section 11.2 of this manual for detailed inspection procedures regarding the following components:
- Wheels.
- Suspension system.
- Brakes.
- Doors/ties/lift.
- Splash guards

It might take longer than 15 miniutes but if you would like to burn up a chuck of that 14 hour clock logging exactally how long it takes be my guest. We will continue to only log it 15 min and make more money because we have a little more time to run. little more time in a day will equal to a few more miles times that by 5-7 days it will add up quickly.
I do alot more vehicle inspections and only do the pretrip once a week.
I check all of my fluids every stop sometimes every other stop depending on the fuel stops.
If I hit two fuel stops in a day then I would only check it once and then again before pulling out from my 10 hour break.
I check my 5th wheel after each stop you never know when someone will pull the release on the 5th wheel.

Lilbit · **^ Top** #32 08.08.2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by MGASSEL

I check my 5th wheel after each stop you never know when someone will pull the release on the 5th wheel.

I had forgotten about that dirty little trick (haven't been in the seat for 8 years). Some people have a sick sense of humor.

LogsRus · **^ Top** #33 08.11.2008

DOT does not require you to pre-trip all those items.
They require you to post-trip all them items.

Pre-trip is only to make sure you are satisfied.

§392.7 Equipment, inspection and use.

No commercial motor vehicle shall be driven unless the driver is satisfied that the following parts and accessories are in good working order, nor shall any driver fail to use or make use of such parts and accessories when and as needed:

Service brakes, including trailer brake connections.

Parking (hand) brake.

Steering mechanism.

Lighting devices and reflectors.

Tires.

Horn.

Windshield wiper or wipers.

Rear-vision mirror or mirrors.

Coupling devices.

§392.7 Equipment, Inspection, and Use

Question 1: Must a driver prepare a written report of a pretrip inspection performed under §392.7?

Guidance: No.

Question 2: Must both drivers of a team operation comply with the provisions of §392.7 before driving?

Guidance: §392.7 states that a driver must be satisfied that the vehicle is in good working order before operating the vehicle. If a driver is satisfied with a co-driver's inspection, or a safety lane inspection, then the requirement of this section will have been met.

I can not find the post-trip information but it's posted around here in one of the threads titled post-trip or pre-trip.

The post-trip has to be done in writting and if repairs are needed you sign the post-trip on the pre-trip inspection stating it was done and you are now safe. YOu only sign it once it's fixed and when you have finished your pre-trip.

What goes wrong if your truck is parked for a 10 hour break (talking solo drivers). That's what should definately be checked on your pre-trip and then some like look under the trailer etc

CANGST · **^ Top** #34 08.12.2008

Do any OTR drivers every mark when something is wrong and get it signed? I never actually did that. When something was broke I got it fixed. Not sure of the reason for this. Also, doing flatbed, if I stop for pee break and check my straps I put it as off duty but flag as load check/break. Because it does not take that long to grab a few chains or wrench a couple of straps, Is this a problem?

Lurchgs · **^ Top** #35 08.16.2008

I'm OTR - and if I find something that needs fixed in order to run safe, darn right I'll hack it and sit until it's fixed. So far, fortunately, it's all little annoying stuff that I log mostly to keep my sitdownupon covered (minor dings/dents that were there when I took over the truck and have no bearing on safety)

I log my pre-trip typically as 15 minutes - though the one I did in Butte MT the other day was a bit over half an hour - and I logged it as such.

I flag my post-trips.

Lone Ranger · **^ Top** #36 08.19.2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by CANGST

Do any OTR drivers every mark when something is wrong and get it signed? I never actually did that. When something was broke I got it fixed. Not sure of the reason for this. Also, doing flatbed, if I stop for pee break and check my straps I put it as off duty but flag as load check/break. Because it does not take that long to grab a few chains or wrench a couple of straps, Is this a problem?

That's how I used to do it, set a new bungee cord, bang the chains or pop the straps on the way by, if one was loose, tighten it up, log it as a "load check" without using up any on duty time and I never had a problem doing that.

I pull a van now, and aside from THAT stigma (you have to be a flat-bedder to understand that reference) it pays better, and no load checks.

But strangely enough, I miss the skateboards, especially the step decks.

On the topic of filling out the post trip report... the law requires that your company keep all documentation (to be used against you

) in the event of an audit of your logs. That means that if the company has a receipt of you having a repair being made, or a flat fixed, and you don't log that as being done? You just got a violation. It probably wont happen to you, unless you run over a car or into the ditch, and then the DOT will find all those "omissions" and your case will become a lot weaker.

CURTWAYNE · **^ Top** #37 08.19.2008

The original company I started with were very strict with all regulations, including logbooks. You have to show a 15 minute inspection. It doesn't have to be logged before you drive, or after you drive. Just as long as you log a 15 minute vehicle inspection.
I have always done a pre-trip inspection, and logged it as such. After that, I don't log any other inspection. But, every time I get out of the truck I look at everything.
Never had a logbook violation, and never failed a dot inspection.

CANGST · **^ Top** #38 08.20.2008

LoneRanger,
I know what your saying about flats. I am going back to driving and have to decide on flats or vans. I liked the length of haul on the flats, plus they would deadhead you crazy distances to get to loads. It would be kind of nice to not have to tarp in 40mph winds or subzero temps or that darn phoenix heat.
Side note: I too am a huge follower of WOTM, Todd Friel is awesome. I have witnessed with a few of those guys before.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lone Ranger

That's how I used to do it, set a new bungee cord, bang the chains or pop the straps on the way by, if one was loose, tighten it up, log it as a "load check" without using up any on duty time and I never had a problem doing that.

I pull a van now, and aside from THAT stigma (you have to be a flat-bedder to understand that reference) it pays better, and no load checks.

But strangely enough, I miss the skateboards, especially the step decks.

On the topic of filling out the post trip report... the law requires that your company keep all documentation (to be used against you

) in the event of an audit of your logs. That means that if the company has a receipt of you having a repair being made, or a flat fixed, and you don't log that as being done? You just got a violation. It probably wont happen to you, unless you run over a car or into the ditch, and then the DOT will find all those "omissions" and your case will become a lot weaker.

User Name · **^ Top** #39 08.20.2008

There is no set time period as everyone has all ready posted. One (either pertrip or post trip) has to be logged for at least 15 minutes & the other can just be flagged.

Also, the law states..."No commercial motor vehicle shall be driven unless the driver is satisfied that the following parts and accessories are in good working order".

It doesn't say that you have to be the one who does the inspection, just that you're "satisfied". A mechanic or someone that you feel is capabe can do the pre/post trip for you. Not that I'd do that, just some FYI.

dangerous dave · **^ Top** #40 08.20.2008

I've had several conversations with DOT orficers about this. Big dif depending on whether you drive same truck/pull same trailer all the time, and no one else ever drives it. I often pay my mechanic an extra hour on a repair visit to look truck over. That is on the reciept in the truck too. Then every week or so I'll have a 2-4 hour post trip where I do some maint work myself and what I did is in the log book. If I was getting in a truck after another person (wheel wrestler) had driven it, it'd take me at least the fifteen minutes and I would log it. You look stupid in front of DOT if you don't. Especially if there's an accident. Doesn't make a dif if it's trucking or any other business, Rule Numero Uno is "Cover thine own rear end first". Of course wasting 3-5 hours a week in log time doesn't hurt a guy that only works 50-60 hrs a week.
Dave

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes	Rate This Thread
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode	Rate This Thread:

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Trucker Forum	Replies	Last Post
On Time Express/Tempe,Az/Grand Prairie,Tx	OTRlightly	Report A BAD Trucking Company Here	21	09.06.2008 10.55 AM
Longest time on the road without sleep	TrooperRat	Stories From The Road	37	08.18.2008 07.09 PM
Ban the UN	Baack	Politics	7	03.20.2008 02.41 PM
My time at Werner so far (update)	slatherd	Trucking Jobs	37	10.21.2007 08.40 AM
Logging Question - "Rollback Hours"?	Justlivin	Questions From New Drivers	55	01.07.2007 06.38 PM

Truckers' Trucking Forum/Message Board - The Premiere Truck Driver Forum
Sponsored Links

The Following User Says Thank You to MGASSEL For This Useful Post:
InMyDreams (08.08.2008)

The Following User Says Thank You to Lone Ranger For This Useful Post:
CANGST (08.20.2008)

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)