Intake actuator harness plugs on C15 ACCERT MXS fill with oil.

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by xTHANATOPSISx, May 1, 2010.

  1. xTHANATOPSISx

    xTHANATOPSISx Light Load Member

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    Feb 12, 2010
    Hutchinson, KS
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    On my fathers C15, every now and again, he gets a intake actuator code and we end up having to clean out the plugs that go into the valve cover riser. They will be FULL of oil that has flowed in through the back of the receptacle on the riser.

    I suggested just packing that plug FULL of dielectric grease to prevent/slow down the oil filling it. A 50% decrease in maintenance would be worth the cost in decent dielectric grease.

    Question is, will the oil just displace the grease when it gets hot? Anyone have a more permanent fix? Do you think, if the grease does thin and flow out, will it flow into the head? Would you worry about a tablespoon of dielectric grease in the engine oil?

    According to Cat mechanics, its not a real "problem" so much as it's an irritant.

    Since we just fix this kind of thing ourselves, at least we aren't paying $100 an hour for someone to spray contact cleaner into a plug and stare at it while it dries out.

    Unfortunately, I think its about time for either some sort of adjustment or a replacement as IAT #3 code isn't going away this time. Nearly 600k miles so time for something else to break on that truck.

    *scratches 6NZ behind ears*
     
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  3. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Feb 4, 2009
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    Oil really isn't the problem. Chances are the actual terminal inside the connector body are worn/weak and making poor electrical contact with the actuator pins. You would need a test terminal to check it, but we see this problem all the time!
     
  4. xTHANATOPSISx

    xTHANATOPSISx Light Load Member

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    Feb 12, 2010
    Hutchinson, KS
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    I can believe that I guess. It has always seemed to go away with just unplugging and cleaning, but the movement could certainly be enough to make the pins connect for a while.

    Problem I have with that theory is that it lasts for quite a while before it starts acting up and once it starts, its fairly consistent.

    If it is a bad/worn pin, would you suggest replacing it or just popping it out and "adjusting" it a bit? Is that a deutsche-type plug?
     
  5. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Feb 21, 2010
    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    Oil is not a conductor of electricity, If the connector is week, and the terminals are worn they will break contact, If they are telling you it is the oil they are lying to you. Ask them why the older model Jake heads work, new harness and solenoids, Just a thought!
     
  6. xTHANATOPSISx

    xTHANATOPSISx Light Load Member

    77
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    Feb 12, 2010
    Hutchinson, KS
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    Seeing as oil isn't a conductor, then it's presence would likely exacerbate a weak connection. Once you add the oil film, it would be harder to get any connection at all, much less an already poor connection. That much makes sense to me anyway. Removing the oil prolongs the functioning of the connector until the wear becomes terminal.

    The second part of your reply, I don't get it. Reads like something was left out.

    No one has commented on the use of dielectric grease. Barring any effect on a bad connection, what are your collective thoughts on using dielectric grease to keep oil out of the plug, at least preventing buildup of the other nasties that used oil carries along with it.
     
  7. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Feb 21, 2010
    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    The connections are worn and not making proper connection Period. The oil does not make it any better or worse. Cat and everyone else has the connections open to oil on all the old Jake heads, Cummins has the power connections open to oil on the N14 injectors, as does Cat and Detroit. Die electric grease would work if you cold keep it in place but the oil getting to about 230 degrees and spraying around I do believe would wash out. The connectors are not made to keep the oil out, the oil will run down the wires. They are flat out lying because they do not want to change the wiring harness, and the solenoids. Detroit had very close to the same connections, on their injectors and if it came in with a code for the injector, we changed that injector and the complete under the cover wiring harness. Just a thought!
     
  8. rollinsmoke

    rollinsmoke Light Load Member

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    Dec 23, 2008
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    Whats exactly is the code? In the early years of the trucks life i would see intake valve actuator "not responding" and it ended up being some software updates. I have seen some "Intake valve actuator low current" codes before. Just wondering what codes these loose connections are related to.
     
  9. CAT700

    CAT700 Light Load Member

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    Feb 2, 2010
    Hopkins MI.
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    Hey :
    I agree with John .
    The oil has nothing to do with it. Your Jake wires are in oil all the time. They do not short out or get wierd.

    That plug is worn... I just watched {mostly } a guy change his wire harness in a truck stop parking lot for the same reason.

    The grease should be fine and I see no reason for any harm to that engine over it. I use it. It is still there.
     
  10. Jas

    Jas Medium Load Member

    Not too sure about oil causing a fault in there but if it is pushing out through the plugs try reducing you crankcase pressure, clean out you breather, if that doesn't help you can try adding a second tappet cover breather, some Acerts breathe real heavy.
    I dont know why but I too have been able to get rid of an IVA fault by cleaning the oil out of the plug, dont know why but it works. IVAs seem to be very suseptable to shorts, opens and increases in resistance for some reason.
     
  11. CAT700

    CAT700 Light Load Member

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    Feb 2, 2010
    Hopkins MI.
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    Hey :
    Jas is also right. My CAT huffs very hard .. I installed a new Cleer Air filter and it does not even wiggle that filter minder any more . This is sending a lot more air through the engine now.

    CAT does all my service. Oil changes etc.. They are putting on a second valve cover with the breather on the back one. They say it will help stop the new blow by.

    My last oil change they used 10w / 30 ... CATs new idea.. Never again..
    Too thin and I used a lot of oil fast. It was thin enough to atomize and blow out . With 15/40 it never does.


    I also tried the new Lucus stop leak oil.. I believe it helped slow down the leak at the bridge... My engine was nowhere near as wet as before.

    With the 10/30 oil I used almost 2 gallons between Mich, and Washigton . About 3000 miles. The 15/40 never shows any loss on the stick. :biggrin_25510:
     
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