Air tank drain valve replacement

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Hanadarko, Dec 17, 2010.

  1. dairyman

    dairyman <b> Hopper Thread Greeter</b>

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    I was kinda thinking the same thing too,but i ain't gona argue with a feller with 40+ years experience on me that is from a tad colder region than Ky.:biggrin_25525::biggrin_25524:
     
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  3. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    If you look at the air system most every line is plastic. If you drain it when you first get out of the truck the warmth from driving will have everything thawed, and it will drain. To make the manifold what I do is drill a hole in a plate for every hose needed and weld in a 1/4 NPT coupling. Tape the end of the threads, paint it install the fittings and drain valves. You want to leave extra room to easy access. Putting in an elbow so they drain to the ground keeps everything clean. Works the same as a manifold made to grease hard to access fittings.
     
    Hanadarko and dairyman Thank this.
  4. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    Ok..that makes sense. Initially I didnt follow this idea...but your right.
    :yes2557:
     
  5. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    I had the dealer install 1/4" ball valves. I got the actual valves at Lowe's. They are lightweight and seem to work very well. Used a 1/4" Male to Mail threaded adapter between the valve and tank. The smallest length one I could find.

    Just not sure if I should put 90 degree turn downs out the back of them or just leave the backside of the valve itself as the output....
     
  6. MRQ

    MRQ Bobtail Member

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    Ritchie, IL
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    I'm surprised that no one has mentioned this idea, so I will. Anyone ever been near an idling train engine and heard those auto drains popping off every so often? That's what I'm gonna do. In my case I have an apu so I don't need to run my C15 when I sleep. All I'll do is wire the 12 volt power to a switched ignition source so they'll only pop off while I'm goin down the road, otherwise they can get a bit annoying till you get used to them.
     
  7. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    Here is the valve (American Valve) I ended up using on my tanks:

    [​IMG]

    Its 1/4" and very small profile. The dealer thought it was a good unit. It looks huge but it's not.
    The Center of Valve to End of Handle is 3-1/2".

    However, I am a bit worried about that handle length. Not sure if that's a concern or not.
    I couldn't find anything better locally, but today I came across this unit from Legend Valve:

    [​IMG]

    I like the idea of a small T-handle (1.6") and that it actually comes with a built in male-thread.
    My current install needed a male-to-male adapter but we found a very small one that worked fine.
    I am not sure if I pass on the adapter for install that the valve might not end up being too close
    to the tank to function 100&#37;.

    ..just looking for opinions on what others have done regarding this.
     
  8. Roadking58

    Roadking58 Bobtail Member

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    I like the Legend Valve idea. I'm in and out of dump sites which limits what valve to use. The t-handle brass valves i have used in the past leak brand new. The T handle is located at the end of the valve, rather than on top. The pull type get dirt in them and stick open in the mud. Pain in the rear. Thanks for your help.
     
  9. MRQ

    MRQ Bobtail Member

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    Ritchie, IL
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    [​IMG]
    That looks like a ball valve for natural gas to me. Most gas ball valves look like that and can be picked up at any hardware to big box store.
     
  10. Hanadarko

    Hanadarko Independent Owner/Operator

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    It's actually a WOG/WSP rated valve....the photo could be misleading I think.
    ..but I am gonna stick with the ones I have installed.
     
  11. Mcast3092

    Mcast3092 Light Load Member

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    Is 1/4 the standard size for air tank valves? Bought one recently and it looks too tiny.
     
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