So... who has been brave enough to DIY Main Bearing swap?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by thesvg, Jun 11, 2011.

  1. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    Okay guys, so I dropped the pan to figure out the source of my oil leak (bad gasket BTW) and as I was draining the oil I saw a bunch of metal crowded around the pick up tube. However it never interfered with the Oil Pressure. I've been having problems with the Electrical oil pressure sending unit, but the mechanical one has been showing consistant pressure since I installed it.

    Sorry for drifting off. those metal shards were pieces of my thrust washers.

    So my question is with me dropping the oil pan, and taking the #7 Main cap off, I removed the bearing to check its condition. It looked like a normal wear about 35X,XXX miles on it. I read that on the Main bearings only the bottom one wears out. So Im kinda wanting to swap those main bearings, at least the bottom ones.

    Has anyone ever swapped their own bearings? did you do Main and Rod?
    Thank you

    If I do end up swapping them, I'll be sure to take lots of pictures for future references. :biggrin_255:
     
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  3. SL3406

    SL3406 Medium Load Member

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    Why are the thrust washers wearing that much? Did you replace them? The upper rod bearings wear faster than the mains. I would suggest checking them. 350k is normally early for bearings, but something unusual is going on for the thrust washers to be wearing like you're seeing.
     
  4. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    I am thinking who ever overhauled it. either reused the washers or probably put them in backwards. Either that or I need to avoid jobs with a lot of loose dirt, the previous day before I dropped the pan, I spent a few minutes spinning out in the dirt, maybe that broke them.

    I've been reading the service manual like crazy now and I still do not want to check the connecting rods because I read that those tighten on sequence. So far I just unbolted the #7 main cap to get to the washers, I dropped the liner to check it out. and I forgot about the dowel pin, I hope that thing stayed up there.
     
  5. lovesthedrive

    lovesthedrive R.I.P.

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    I trust the book told you how to check the clearance of the bearing?

    Most auto parts stores will sell a compressing plastic. Cut off a small bit of it and place on the crank surface. Tighten cap to torque specs, then remove cap and look at deformed plastic on surface. Using the package of the plastic, there is a guage that will tell you by the amount of squashing how much clearance you have.

    If your losing thrust washers you have too much end play some where and the washer was not thick enough to stop the endplay. If you have other thrust washers down there now is the time to check them too.
     
  6. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    I add that plastic in between the crank and bearing sleeve?
     
  7. lovesthedrive

    lovesthedrive R.I.P.

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    correct. the bearing stays in the cap.
     
  8. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    please just dont do 1/2 a bearing job--might be asking for world of hurt right there
    do all the rods/mains/thrust washers
    the plastic you are looking for is called plastiguage--you put a strip in the shell--torqu to specs to check bearing clearence
     
  9. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    Lol I bought the whole kit for 220 I'm going to install the seperate thrust washers and if that fixes the problem I will do the bearing job when the temperature cools down
     
  10. canuck in da truck

    canuck in da truck Road Train Member

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    that will work--i kinda meant not to do tthe bottoms and leave the tops
    cause in reality--if you have decent psi your mains should be ok to go for awhile yet
     
  11. thesvg

    thesvg Light Load Member

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    Yessir oil prssure is perfect. Oil still comes out clean but I will be taking a sample to send it for an analysts
     
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