Rear End Chunks

I do all of my own. I use a cherry picker when I can, if crossmembers or fifthwheel etc allow. I use a clevis and a smaller bolt thru it on the mounting flange of the rear. Just pry the pumpkin out a lil to get the clevis in there, slide the bolt thru n go from there. When its out I set it down n roll it out from under the truck. I have also done several with a floor jack if the cherry picker wont work. Just have to be careful not to drop it on urself! Its not rocket science, mostly just a lot of bull work cuz they are so darn heavy.

 

we did a power divider with a tranny jack... it held up pretty good. It was also high enough to strap it to the jack.

 

if u have enough room between the back of the cab u can pull the cat walks off and bring the pumpkin out over the frame if u r using a cherry picker. i changed my front power divider myself too. just pull the axles and use a cheater bar on ur wrench or socket cause the factory uses a high strength thread locker to keep the bolts from backing off.

 

wild hog, where you located at in ar, i am a mechanic and could come give ya some assistance if close enough,for a small fee if you dont want to go it alone. what kind of truck ya got?

 

You might look at this jack, hard to beat for the price, I just happened to look at it last night at a store, and I thought it was made pretty well. I would think you could use some shims and or a block or two and make it work pretty good.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-low-profile-transmission-jack-4075.html

I also had to have a front rear changed last year and I'm sure the labor was around $350, add to that the oil and maybe a couple gaskets. I supplied the rear end, $750 from the junkyard.
OK I just looked in my checkbook, The take out rear $750, total for the R&R from the shop, oil and all $530.05, but it was 2 years ago not 1.

 

im in earle ar, about 10 miles north of the t/a on I40 exit 260

 

I use the tranny jack at the shop. I made a pipe to bolt to jack that i could set against yoke and use u-joint strap to hold the pipe tight in the yoke. That and a ratchet strap keep it solid so it is easy to put back in