cat help

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by slowhandpete, Nov 20, 2011.

  1. slowhandpete

    slowhandpete Bobtail Member

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    Jun 18, 2011
    salem,in
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    Guys help, I have a sick kitty kat(LOL). I have a 3406E 5EK, I am having a problem with a miss and have been losing a little coolant and it's not in the oil. I believe it is going out the exhaust. I have a tempature drop on no. 2 cyl. of 35 to 40 degress. This is a 550 cat and I was coming across VA. the other day and I set my cruise at 65 mph and I had to down shift going up a hill empty. Has any body heard of the water bottle and the overflow tube trick. I need help what is wrong with this engine,PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
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  3. Superhauler

    Superhauler TEACHER OF MEN

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    sounds like a typical head gasket failure. probably had a liner drop and burnt out the head gasket.
     
  4. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    It could be a gasket, it could be a cracked head, in the valve seat area, or in the normal places between the valves. Some will crack and only open at certain temperatures that would be blowing compression into the coolant. You can blow a gasket and take coolant out with it usually out the back of #6
     
  5. Mr. Haney

    Mr. Haney Road Train Member

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    The bottle test is referring to taking a clear bottle with water in it and sliding the over flow tube from the radiator into the water in the bottle. What you're looking for is a stream of bubbles entering the water from the over flow tube. This test is done after the engine is thoroughly warmed up. I actually like to see it done at the end of the days work. By doing then you've had the thermostats and fan cycle through out the day and have purged any possible air pockets from the cooling system. A constant stream of air bubbles is an indication of engine compression entering the cooling system
     
  6. JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    If you go onto "Diesel Garage.com" and go to handy links there is a complete write up. Because of the fact some units use a air operated flow control switch, you need to have a separate air source for operating the fan, and you want to drain the air system completely and disconnect the air compressor. If you do it at the end of the day you want to test the rad cap and be sure it is good.
    Many a head gasket has been changed because the rad cap was bad.
    Just a thought!
     
  7. black_dog106

    black_dog106 Road Train Member

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    Here is the write up from TDG that JohnP3 mentioned in previous post. I believe John posted this in TDG... the credit is his...:biggrin_25514:

    To do a proper complete bottle test, you have to test the radiator cap, and be sure it is holding pressure, at least 10 lbs.
    The coolant must be good to at least -40F, and the correct level.
    I like to do it from a cold engine, and adapt another compressed air source to hook into the fan solenoid, to run the Fan when needed.
    You want an infrared temp gauge, to monitor when the thermostat opens, and to check that it is not bypassing coolant. Past the seals or a stuck thermostat.
    You want to drain the complete air system every last pound, disconnect the air compressor out-put hose.
    Check the oil level and PS.
    Start the motor and run it to 1,000 RPM. test the top rad pipe for temperature, and when the coolant temperature at the oil cooler, or water pump gets to above 70F you can crank up the speed, Max RPM does not hurt it, and is a lot quicker.
    Turn on all your lights on, no heater fan, no AC.
    You need a plastic bottle clear is best, I add a little soap, and use a bungee cord or wire to hang it so the recovery discharge line is in the bottom.
    Monitor the top radiator pipe, it should stay cold until the thermostat opens if not the seals or the thermostats are leaking.
    Monitor the temperature the fan come in, the bubbles will blow while it is heating up that is OK, monitor the temperature the fan comes off.
    When the fan has come on the third time, then, the forth time, if you are still getting bubbles, you have a problem, and it failed the test.
    Remove the hose from the bottle, and idle the engine, wearing gloves, attached the air compressor discharge hose, remove the auxiliary, air source, and reconnect, original hose, put the engine speed back up and the hose back in the bottle.
    Let the air build, then open, or tie back the air tank drains so you have the compressor cycling. when the fan comes on and you have no bubbles it passes.
    If you have no bubbles, before the air compressor is attached, and bubbles after, the problem is the compressor.
    Remove the hose from the bottle. Shut off the air discharge valves and be sure they are closed properly.
    You either have work to do or have removed one possibility from the list.
    Remove the oil fill cap if it is wet with water or foam, that is a bad thing, get your creeper and check the vent hose if it has droplets of water in it that is bad, the coolant is getting into the oil.
    Just a thought!
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    Last edited: Nov 23, 2011
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