I just replaced every single one of the studs on my drives due to several having been stripped on my truck when I bought it. Now here I am about a year later and I've got a couple more wheel studs stripped yet again. I know for a fact that the inner lugs are long enough to not be bottoming out and I know the lugs are not being over tightened. Could a slightly bent wheel be the cause of this? What else could be the cause for this? I am sick of dealing with pulling the hubs and the downtime involved in the job. Anyone got any advice?
Stripped wheel studs. Again.
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Wildcat74, Dec 4, 2011.
Page 1 of 3
-
-
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
-
Use antiseize on your studs and inner nuts if you don't already. It seems to help. You don't have a bent wheel. An occasional stripped stud or a twisted off inner nut is just part of the deal with stud pilot rims. I haven't had any stud problems after getting new enough equipment to have hub pilot rims.
-
When replacing the stud, try to also replace the inner and outer nut too. The threads on the inside of the inner nut may be worn. Even with the torque wrench set correctly, if the threads are full of rust and corrosion, or worn the wheel will never torque right. Since you really can't clean the inside threads it is better to just replace them before a wheel comes off!
-
I'd been told that anti-seize on wheel studs was not legal.
-
SL3406, mslashbar, Elvenhome21 and 3 others Thank this.
-
-
You put a drop or two of oil in the gap between the nut and washer on hub piloted hardware. The washer face against the wheel remains dry.
I put small amount of oil on stud threads too. Dry threads require a tad higher torque.
I always use torque wrench on wheels. Never had one loosen or become hard to remove next time. -
On subject, Wildcat do you have steel or aluminum rims? They use different length inner nuts.
ALCOA p/n
5988R/5988L Inner Cap Nut
For use with standard length studs (1.31 to 1.44 stud standout) or longer studs not to exceed 1.88 stud standout.
Full external threads, counter bore 5/16 deep at open end. For use with aluminum inner and outer wheels.
7896R/7896L Inner Cap Nut
Inner thread 3/4 x 16, outer thread 1-1/8 x 16. For use with steel inner dual wheel and aluminum outer dual wheel with 1.31 to 1.44 stud standout.
EUCLID p/n
Aluminum Inner & Outer Wheel
Hardened inner Cap Nut
E5988-R & L 1-1/8"-16 3/4"-16 3-1/16" Inner Cap Nut
or
E5978-R & L* 1-1/8"-16 3/4"-16 3-1/16"
*E5978-R & L has a few more inner threads than E5988-R & L.
Steel Inner Wheel & Aluminum Outer Wheel
Hardened inner Cap Nut
E7896-R & L 1-1/8"-16 3/4"-16 2-9/16"
or
E7897-R & L 1-1/8"-16 3/4"-16 3-1/16"
I used the Euclid E5978-R & L when I switched from steel to aluminum inners.
What brand hardware are you buying? Could be bad Chinese crap.
Make sure your hub studs are minimum 1.31" long.
I have 4 boxes of used L&R inners for steel wheels free to anyone willing to pick them up. -
I'm not sure on the brand or country of origin on the studs but I replaced the studs inner and outer lugs all in one shot the last time and used anti seize on all the above.
I'm using steel inners and aluminum outers. -
One might think torque is torque regardless. Stick a torque bar on an impact and the lubricant aids how far it goes. They figure it can increase actual torque 10 ft lbs using an impact. Then you are dealing with metal fatigue on stretched threads.
If you do like semi crazy and use a torque wrench, then it doesn't matter. The specs apply to dry. Wheels aren't on there long enough to rust over that bad. Antiseize is good for like exhaust manifold bolts.
Wildcat, I would of replaced everything as a set. Sounds like the previous owner over torqued which stretched the studs and inner lug threads both, which allows just enough play for a 1 year wear out on the outer lugs.
Both semi crazy's posts are good.
Trucking Jobs in 30 seconds
Every month 400 people find a job with the help of TruckersReport.
Page 1 of 3