I have an oil leak coming from the rear main seal. Looking to fixing it myself. Ive seen a jack on sale for 300 and its rated 2000lbs. Will that be enough to drop the tranny? Also is there a good write up on how to drop the trans? Thank you very much friends
how much does eaton 13speed weigh?
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by thesvg, Feb 8, 2012.
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weighs about 720lbs
American Trucker -
Really720 ? I am sh ocked but thank you for that info!
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http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@roadranger/documents/content/rr_rrsl-0001.pdf
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American Truckerthesvg Thanks this. -
Still shocked, but I am happy a 1000lb jack is on sale too! more repair money!
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Have you ever pulled a trans on a truck its not something I would advise if you've never done it also I wouldent trust a 300 dollar jack a real jack is 2000 bucks plus once you get it out and to the rear main you will have to buy a rear main installer specific to your engine and if you make it to getting the trans back in after you've set the clutch up right there not always so easy to get back in they can be a real pain in the ##### I'm not trying to burst your bubble or put you down just a little heads up I've been wrenching for 10 years and I've seen guys that claim to be mechanics and the best take 2 days to get a trans stabbed back in everyone has there own way to so but they don't always work also have had a few trans input shafts so hummed up with dust old grease and rust that you have to use a come along to get them out good luck if you need any advise just ask there's plenty of qualified guys on here
thesvg Thanks this. -
Thank.you and yes in my teens I used to help around in a diesel shop. Iv
e helped pull a fair share of trannies but another guy did most of the work. I just assisted and provided an extra hand. I see where you're coming from, but in this day in age I cannot afford to drop 5-6 hundred bucks on labor. My trade doesn't pay well enough for me to have that luxury.Surjit Thanks this. -
Don't forget, you are going to remove the clutch and flywheel, and you need to get your hands on a piloting tool as well, and a good torque wrench. Once you get in there, it's almost prudent to inspect and replace the clutch as well, but then you are spending more money.
Flywheel bolts shouldn't be re-used. Cheap and safe insurance.
Is the leak bad enough to warrant all that labor without doing the rest of the work while it's all apart? -
The leak is slow but its there. And DOT can see it. I have a pretty good arsenal of tools. I'm inspecting every single jack. I'm looking for the most sturdy. All are within the 300 price range. I don't mind turning wrenches though I'm a DIY'er lol
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I would suggest having the work done at a shop. 1) It will be safer. 2) the work should be covered under warranty if the seal leaks etc.. 3) it will be safer.
However if you take it to a shop be prepared for them to find something else going on. When they drop the clutch out it may show wear. The input shaft may be worn or clutch fork/bushings etc..
Also you did not list the type of truck. You may have to support the weight of the engine.
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