In the lubricity study Marvel Mystery oil was 17th and had 42 micron worse wear than the base fuel and is not made for anything 2007 and above. That would make it useless junk in my books, it is even worse than adding used motor oil. With all respect, I suggest you try to crap in front of your 5th wheel and tell us how it improves your milage makes it run quieter, as the smell pushes you along.
When Cat improves a component like the block that all the parts from the old block still fit they do not make two blocks they discontinue making the old design. The new design has the same part number, same goes for Cams, rocker arms, hundreds of items.
What's the difference between a Cat 3406B and a 3406E
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by silver dollar, Jun 25, 2012.
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I wouldn't have a 2007 or newer truck, and I wk continue to use MM oil, I have never had a problem with it, I don't use it to get better mileage I get 7mpg all day, so you can have your "studies"
Last edited: Feb 23, 2014
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Back in the '80's we ran lease tractors (Mack) from Ryder.....I remember Ryder would always pump the used oil from the pan into the fuel tanks.....After knowing that, my co-driver and I would always make sure our tanks were full when getting a PM.....As I also re-call, he had gotten his oil and likely a bunch more dumped in there, lots of smoke out the stack....We always added Marvel to the oil in the winter months, thinned it down a bit, when running below zero constantly.....Added alcohol to the air lines too, and kerosene to the fuel when bought down South....Carried a propane torch when things froze up on occasion also...But then again, we used a road flare when that was all we had....Yeah, winter in the North, North, sucks, stuff just doesn't like to work so well....
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We just to close roads around dc and show them how mad we are with carb, emission crap, more breakdown, HOS, and elogs.
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It won't win any races but it'll get it done.
650cat425 Thanks this. -
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I would go with a B/W 177148 in a 1.45 housing. It will need OR-3423 nozzles.
It would also be best to change the pump cam and timing advance if I remember correctly the 350 hp had a 16 degree pump cam and the 425 had an 18. Its also gonna need the governor section of the pump gone through. So to do it right its gonna cost right at 4k in pump work alone. Right at 2k for a turbo and 100 a piece for nozzles
Many here will say something generic like advance it half a hole or even 3/4. Oh I done it for years wont hurt nothing.
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