Stud pilot vs. Hub pilot

Here are your specs:[TABLE]
Hub Assembly 102314 Status Terminated (This assembly has been superseded by 10001348) Assembly Type Basic Hub Assembly Axle Location Drive Axle Name R Axle-Specific Specification Long Barrel Mounting Ball Seat Nuts - Right Hand ABS No ABS Characteristic ABS Ready - NonStamped Wheel Stud Bolt Circle Diameter 11.25 in Wheel Stud 102280 Wheel Stud Standout 1.88" Detailed On 102313 Hub Rating 11,500 LBS 5,216 kg Drum Pilot Diameter 8.78" Bearing Set Standard Fill Hole No Fill Hole ABS Offset 2.33" Hub Offset 1.31" Axle Stud Standout 1.75" Axle Stud Diameter 5/8" Weight 37.0 LBS 16.8 kg Machining 102847 Machined Flange Thickness 1.53" Casting 102208 Casting Material Aluminum [TR]
Superseded By [TD]10001348[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
[TABLE="class: BillOfMaterials"]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel0, colspan: 6"]Bill of Materials ' 102314 ' Basic Hub Assembly[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TH]Item[/TH]
[TH]Description[/TH]
[TH]Material[/TH]
[TH]Qty[/TH]
[TH]Unit[/TH]
[TH]Type[/TH]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel1"]103430[/TD]
[TD]STUD, DOUBLE-ENDED[/TD]
[TD]5/8"-11UNC / 5/8"-18UNF[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]8[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Double-Ended Stud[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel1"]102280[/TD]
[TD]STUD, WHEEL - SAE GRADE 8[/TD]
[TD]3/4"-16 UNF RH X 3.41 LG[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]10[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Wheel Stud[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel1"]101026[/TD]
[TD]CUP, BEARING - OUTBOARD[/TD]
[TD]572[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Bearing Cup[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel1"]101027[/TD]
[TD]CUP, BEARING - INBOARD[/TD]
[TD]592A[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Bearing Cup[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel1"]102847[/TD]
[TD]HUB, MACHINED[/TD]
[TD]102208 HUB, CAST ALUM[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Hub Machining[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel2"]102783[/TD]
[TD]HUB, MACHINED[/TD]
[TD]102208 HUB, CAST ALUM[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Hub Machining - Turned Only[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel3"]102208[/TD]
[TD]HUB, CASTING[/TD]
[TD]A356-T6 ALUMINUM[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Hub Casting[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="class: BomLevel2"]102208[/TD]
[TD]HUB, CASTING[/TD]
[TD]A356-T6 ALUMINUM[/TD]
[TD="class: BomQuantity"]1[/TD]
[TD="class: BomUnit"]EA[/TD]
[TD]Hub Casting[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

 

I've heard there's a company that machines stud pilot hubs to accept hub pilot lugstuds, you may be able to get a local machine shop to do this, though I don't know how much money you'd save.

 

The best I can figure and you can call Conmet to verify but you need 4 10003468 hubs. These will be iron hubs instead of aluminium. Look here for the specs https://vdm.conmet.com/HubCatalog/LookUpHub.aspx when you call verify the seal bore and bearing offset. Here is the number for tech 800-547-9473.

 

You can not do that as the discription says it is hub piloted meaning the hub centers the wheel unlike stud piloted or ball and seat the nut centers the wheel and the hub has no way to center the wheel.

 

Depends on the hub, some stud pilot hubs also have the pilot pads cast into the hub, to cut down on the number of molds the manufacturer has to maintain.

 

Looking at the photos again, it appears those pads are in place.

 

really sometomes it is so hard to pull rim from hub!!!! so it is a big problem is tire companies do not let as use it! Yep, I know that they check for hub leak, but anty seiz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

No, Pablo, no antiseize. It interferes with getting and retaining the appropriate amount of tension on the lugnut to keep the wheel in place. Industry group TIA trains techs to clean the mounting surfaces on the hub, rim, and drum, apply two drops of 30w oil to the studs and spread a thin film of oil on the pilot pad of the hub, a drop of oil between the nut and washer of each lugnut, put the rim on the hub, and torque the lugnuts to 475 ftlbs., half way between 450-500 to allow for variation of torque wrench calibration. Then retorque in about 100 miles to insure against settling of the components. Occasionally they'll stick, and you'll have to do some work to get them back off, but that doesn't happen that often, not worth taking the chance with antiseize.

 

We use wheel guard liners between the drum and aluminum wheels and add never-seize to the centering tabs, not the lug nuts. The only stuck wheels run into are on other peoples trucks.

There is not problem with never-seize on the hubs, they don't want it on studs. The biggest problem with tire installation is over tightening, which can stretch a stud to its yield point. When that happens, nuts can come loose, or even worse, studs can break. The lugs require a certain clamping load, which is achieved by a torque range. When you change the friction of the threads, you change the clamping force for a given torque.

Rusty threads are rarely an issue because most people over torque in the 1st place. A real tire impact will have a remove/install setting. Install is noticeably less powerful. Some people will even hammer them on with a tire gun, then "double check" with a torque wrench. This is usually a waste of time if all you are doing is looking for a click. This does not tell you if they are too tight.

 

THANK YOU! geez,

I think this is also what Pablo is saying. I have always put a little anti sieze on the centering tabs/fingers, never had a problem. GrapeApe is dead on. The biggest problem is people using 1" impact guns to put wheels on too, way over torqued!