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  1. #1
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    Stud pilot vs. Hub pilot

    My truck is needing new brakes, s-cams, and s-cam bushings. I have to pull the hub off to do this so I am going to do bearings as well. My truck currently has stud piloted wheels. Since I am in the market for some new rims and tires would it be worth it to buy new hubs and rims and converting it over to a hub pilot wheel? Are there any advantages between the two or would it just be wasted money? Thanks in advance!


  2. #2
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    I definitely prefer hub piloted rims, when I was a mechanic at a truck shop I saw many more problems with broken studs and lugnuts with stud piloted wheels.

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    If you have to replace a lugnut, hub pilot lugnuts will be the same for the whole truck, while stud pilot requires different nuts for inside or outside, left or right, and the inner lugnuts vary based on length of stud and aluminum or steel wheels, less likely for a T/S to have the right one in stock.

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  5. #4
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    The advantages are easier to upbolt and rebolt hub pilot wheels. Your looking at having to buy 6 hubs 10 wheels all the nuts. its not a hard job to do, but you have to make sure you get the correct hubs for your housings. I have changed a lot of bud and Dayton hubs over to hub pilot. though truth be told a common misunderstanding is that hub pilot our self centering when in fact as I learned from working in a tire shop dealing with it everyday they do not center themselves out. that's why they make centering pins for when mounting the wheel on to the hub.

  6. #5
    Road Train Member Pablo-UA's Avatar
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    sometimes alloy rims gets seized on hubs and it is so hard to pull them. so experienced drivers use anty seiz spray

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  8. #6
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    I have been calling around to see how much the new hub cost and no one knows what type I need. One shop told me that many Con-Met hubs were interchangeable, you just have to change the studs over. I have Con-Met hubs (part #cm 102314 or newer # 10001348 ) how does one tell if my hubs are interchangeable?
    Last edited by olpa77; 04.28.2013 at 07.29 PM.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pablo-UA View Post
    sometimes alloy rims gets seized on hubs and it is so hard to pull them. so experienced drivers use anty seiz spray

    that's a BIG NO NO these days. Aint aeiz can get you a red tag out of service and can also void a warranty on tires and rims should you have one. it does not allow the rims to be properly tightened. only allowed to use a drop or two of oil or penetrating oil. NO AINTI SEIZE any more....sorry...learned that the hard way

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  11. #8
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    .......... *
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -img_20130428_192145_751-jpg   -img_20130428_191944_856-jpg   -img_20130428_192001_849-jpg   -img_20130428_192030_758-jpg   -img_20130428_192107_814-jpg  

    -img_20130428_192158_664-jpg   -img_20130428_192204_665-jpg  
    Last edited by olpa77; 04.28.2013 at 08.17 PM.

  12. #9
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    The more I research what that parts guy told me the more I think he is full of poop. I think he just didn't have an answer to hub I need and told me I could swap studs. Thanks for the help everyone. God Bless!

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    Heavy Load Member GrapeApe's Avatar
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    Your hubs are stud pilot only, you cannot simply change the studs an run hub pilot. Got to https://vdm.conmet.com/HubCatalog/Home.html

    Click on the Functional Characteristics link and plug in the info you need to get a good part # for a hub that will work. You can use the look up a con-met part # link to get the critical info from you current hubs to use in looking for a hub pilot hub. When you get hub pilot part #, you can use the compare 2 parts #'s link to look at all the specs side by side to verify that it'll work, you want the same bearings, ABS, Axle mounting, ect.

    Once you get a good #, you can cross that to other brands if you wish.

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