Is my alternator failing?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Richter, Dec 26, 2013.

  1. Richter

    Richter Road Train Member

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    So,

    At 1400 engine rpm, my voltage is sometimes 13.8 and sometimes as low as 13 with no load aside from lights. (turning lights on or off makes no difference). At idle is only 11.5 or 12. I got all new batts 6 months ago and have done a great job so far. The truck still starts, but voltage is low. Engine off the batts are around 12 depending on how long i ran the truck.

    No squeeling, belt seems to be making its rounds smoothly. Tentioners arn't bouncing to much. Could it be a short somewhere or is it mostlikly a failing alt?
     
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  3. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    I would say no on the short, bad connection very possible. The only way to know for sure is see how many amps it is still putting out. It's is likely to be getting weak, also you could have gotten a bad battery. I hate to see a guy spend money if not needed especially with the quality of parts they push on us. The poor mans way of testing the alternator is turn the lights on for 15 to 20 minutes eng off. You only want to take some charge out of batteries not drain them. Start engine let it run for a minute or two. Feel of alt if it's blistering hot it's ok most likely. If you can hold your hand on it it's bad. I know that May sound backwards but to generate power you have to make a lot of heat. If it is not getting hot most likely the brushes are wore some.
     
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  4. Richter

    Richter Road Train Member

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    its down to 12 volts now. Should i really drain it further with lights to test it? I would think it should be cranking out the power to get from 12ish to 14 right?
     
  5. wore out

    wore out Numbered Classic

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    Yeah ideal voltage is 13.5 eng running. Although it is normal to have to raise the rpms one time to excite most truck alternators.
     
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  6. bubbanbrenda

    bubbanbrenda Road Train Member

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    Don't forget to check the short cables that connect them all together. If the cable between the first and second battery is bad then you theoretically only have 1 usable battery.
     
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  7. Richter

    Richter Road Train Member

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    Well since batts are in series, would that mean the amps would go down and volts would be fine? All batts seemed to have same voltageish within .2 or .3 volts.
     
  8. allan5oh

    allan5oh Road Train Member

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    Check output voltage right at the alternator at idle. It should still be around 13.5 volts. If not it needs to be replaced. If a battery is shorting out it will get hot.
     
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  9. d281833

    d281833 Heavy Load Member

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    I just put an alternator on mine, old one ran 14.1, this one is 14.5
     
  10. Richter

    Richter Road Train Member

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    ok, batt leads are fine, everything points to alternator. Its not getting hot either.

    So what brands are best? Bosch seems to have tons of advertizing saying they are best, but are they? I want to replace with a high amp model that i wont need to worry about for the next 300k miles. are there other brands i should consider? is it worth the savings to go reman? I pretty much want quality and reliability over cheapness.

    Thanks
     
  11. fld

    fld Medium Load Member

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    I was always taught that you must have full batteries to check your alt for charging.

    If it were me, I would disconnect the cables and fully charge the batteries. Then clean the terminals and check the cables, including the ground strap.

    Then connect cables, start, and check charging.

    I think optimal charging is 13.8 to 14.2, but I think up to 14.5 is ok.

    I would also use a separate tester (not relying on truck gauge).

    Just my .02. Hope it helps.
     
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