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Oil cooler leaking after replacing water pump

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by CbarM, Jan 26, 2014.

  1. Jan 26, 2014 #1
    CbarM

    CbarM Heavy Load Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    Irvine, AB
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    Hey guys, I have a 6TS 3406E and just replaced my water pump. Started pouring the coolant back in and got about 2/3 of a pail in n it started leaking out the front seals on the oil cooler. Does this mean its not aligned properly or the seals are shot? Are these gonna be a big deal to change, as in will the back part of the water pump have to come off again to get the pipe end out of the oil cooler?
     
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    #1
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  3. Jan 26, 2014 #2
    Pablo-UA

    Pablo-UA Road Train Member

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    Borispol, Ukraine
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    sounds as old seals, I'd reseal it and keep driving
     
    Pablo-UA, Jan 26, 2014
    Pablo-UA, Jan 26, 2014
    #2
  4. Jan 26, 2014 #3
    CbarM

    CbarM Heavy Load Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    Irvine, AB
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    It was new about 190K miles ago when the engine was inframed, but the front pipe end moved when I took the water pump out so it might have broken a good seal. Is this gonna be a huge job or pretty simple?
     
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    #3
  5. Jan 26, 2014 #4
    JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Feb 21, 2010
    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    When you buy a Reman water pump you get the two oil cooler "O" rings, orange ones you have to clean the adapter that takes the two "O" rings clean the end of the cooler and the piece that goes to the Water pump. I file the piece to the water pump flat and use a very thin smear of Loctite 5699, silicone, on the gasket. I use synthetic gear oil as lube on the seals and housings, align it and push in place install the two bolts and torque to 35 lbs. You can not reuse the old seals or not change the both of them. You want to clean all the debrise off the end of the cooler cores.
    Just a thought!
     
    JohnP3, Jan 26, 2014
    JohnP3, Jan 26, 2014
    #4
    DogHouse83 Thanks this.
  7. Jan 26, 2014 #5
    GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    Jan 7, 2013
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    It's not a hard job. The pipe will come out without taking the water pump back off. I usually pull that pipe and replace the o-ring when doing a water pump. It gives you a little more room, plus I have often found an impeller bolt in there from a previous pump change. It also lets you see the end of the oil coolers to see if the rubber is starting to deteriorate.

    Anyway, you'll have to take off some heater core valves and fittings to get it out, but I've always been able to get them off with the oil cooler and water pump in place. I pulled one a few months back for a no heat complaint. The owner replaced the water pump, then had no cab heat. I found the old impeller bolt fell down into the fitting for the heater valve plugging the hole.

    When you change a water pump, always make sure the old pump has the impeller bolt in it. If it's gone, you'll usually find it in front of the oil cooler in that pipe beating up the copper tubes.
     
    GrapeApe, Jan 26, 2014
    GrapeApe, Jan 26, 2014
    #5
  8. Jan 26, 2014 #6
    CbarM

    CbarM Heavy Load Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    Irvine, AB
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    OK, sounds good. I cleaned and replaced the gasket where the pipe bolts to the pump with 2 bolts, used a metal gasket with rubber O ring there, but my leak now is where the pipe end comes out of the oil cooler. Is this easy to remove with everything else bolted back in place, or am I gonna have to take the water pump out again to get this out to replace the O ring in the cooler?
     
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    #6
  9. Jan 26, 2014 #7
    CbarM

    CbarM Heavy Load Member

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    Jan 17, 2011
    Irvine, AB
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    Sorry GrapeApe, I think we posted at the same time. So I will have to pull the housing on the back of the water pump off again, the thing with 4 bolts holding it on that connects to the lower rad hose?
     
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    #7
  10. Jan 26, 2014 #8
    GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    No, you should not have to. You'll have to work it around a bit and hold your tongue just in the right place, but it'll come out.
     
    GrapeApe, Jan 26, 2014
    GrapeApe, Jan 26, 2014
    #8
  11. Jan 26, 2014 #9
    CbarM

    CbarM Heavy Load Member

    894
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    Jan 17, 2011
    Irvine, AB
    0
    OK, awesome!! Thanks for the advice! I am gonna go back out to the shop n try it again now. Is there just 1 O ring that needs to be replaced? I think thats all I have left over from the water pump kit.
     
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    CbarM, Jan 26, 2014
    #9
  12. Jan 27, 2014 #10
    JohnP3

    JohnP3 Road Train Member

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    Feb 21, 2010
    Rock Creek B.C. Canada
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    You do not have to pull the water pump cover, just bend the conector downwards and it will come out, There are 2 "O"rings on the conector, if just one was replaced, and it is not damaged you can reuse that one. Use synthetic oil and clean up the pieces really good. I use to sand blast the conector and use emery cloth on the oil cooler nose.
    Just a thought!
     
    JohnP3, Jan 27, 2014
    JohnP3, Jan 27, 2014
    #10
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