STOP ENGINE light. N14 Celect. Most common causes?

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Deezl Smoke, May 8, 2014.

  1. Deezl Smoke

    Deezl Smoke Medium Load Member

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    Hillsboro Oregon
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    I know it is difficult to near impossible to diagnose an engine from a bit of written text, so I will ask in general, what are some of the most common causes of the stop engine light to light up and the engine to die when the light does so, on an N14 Cummins Celect in a 93 Pete 379?

    Here are some details on my situation, in case someone recognizes the issue or wants to take en educated guess.
    I just aquired the truck a few days ago, so I have no history with it, nor any real knowledge of it's maintenance and repair. But here is what happened today. I started it to move it, then decided to let it run with the idle bumped up a bit to charge the batteries. About 3 minutes of run time and it died. Would not start. Let it sit about 5 minutes and tried again. It fired right up. So this time I stayed in the truck with my foot on the pedal to run high idle. About 2 minutes in, the stop engine light comes on and the engine dies right then. Will not start.

    I do not know the condition of the fuel filters, though likely need changed. I do have plenty fuel in the tank and though not real fresh I'm sure, it does not appear to be too awful old. But the stop engine light coincides with the engine dieing.

    Any ideas or history with the stop engine light?

    Thanks.
     
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  3. slippez

    slippez Bobtail Member

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    could just be a sensor. eop or eps both a known problem with the n14
     
  4. Turtles

    Turtles Light Load Member

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    If I remember right on the Celect N14 the only immediate shut downs are low oil pressure, low coolant, and high coolant temperature. I'm not sure if the engine position sensor will shutdown immediately or give you a check engine light and a code as it dies.

    I have had a short run than crash problems turn out to be the low coolant sensor several times. It checks out and works until the coolant warms and then flakes out. Check the wiring as well, the wiring harness is old and brittle and a crack in the insulation will cause it to throw a false code.

    N14's are known for weird electrical problems being caused by poor grounds. Have you checked them? Tighten the cables in the battery box and on the starter as well.
     
  5. Smellfunny

    Smellfunny Road Train Member

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    What Turtles said. Oil Pressure, low coolant, and high coolant. If you are full of water and you have oil pressure then you will have to try and get flash code or have someone hook up reader to it.
     
  6. baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    Cross out wires on low coolant SEN. do not forget and drive for years after that?
     
  7. Smellfunny

    Smellfunny Road Train Member

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    Don't cross out wires to sensors. At least not for a permanent fix. To get you to a safe location, yeah maybe on an older truck. Sensors are there for a reason. Fix the problem the right way. Don't create more problems.
     
  8. Deezl Smoke

    Deezl Smoke Medium Load Member

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    Hillsboro Oregon
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    Thank you for the replies. I shall check the coolant level sensor or just replace it. The engine had fine oil pressure and had not run long enough to get warm. But low coolant sensor makes a lot of sense. I have had these sensors on other equipment give issues.
    Thanks again.
     
  9. dustinbrock

    dustinbrock Road Train Member

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    If your truck has a diagnostic switch on the dash turn key to on position and hold switch. If not, key to on and hold the cruise to either resume or set. Watch for flashing lights on your dash, count the flashes...... That should give you your code.

    If not then I'm in agreement with previous, low coolant, high coolant temp etc
     
  10. Deezl Smoke

    Deezl Smoke Medium Load Member

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    It does actually have a diagnostics switch. That's interesting that you mention this. I did not know about the code flashing part, but a friend stopped by and told me to unhook the batteries for a few seconds and reconnect. That got it to start. He said he had heard that disconnect was supposed to clear codes for a minute or two, or until they show back up. I shall try the code flashing idea tomorrow.

    One other thing, the coolant level is fine, but the sensor, which I think is supposed to be in the over flow tank?, is not there. The wire is cable tied to the fan engage line. So no sensor even on the coolant level.
     
  11. 1johnb

    1johnb Medium Load Member

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    Most likely it is the engine position sensor. These will often fail with out logging a code. You can check the resistance with an ohm meter. The reading should be 1200/1500 if I recall correctly.
     
    Traveler_1969 Thanks this.
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