trans removal
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by digger22, Sep 20, 2014.
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Have a good trans jack, mark your airlines. The rest is pretty easy if there is no PTO, air tanks, crossmembers ect to deal with.
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put the truck on 8x8 wood blocks,...good trans jack!!! use the tie chains so trans dont fall!!!!!! good floor under jack!!! dont force nuttun...good luck...
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I have a plastic tray I mounted casters on. So I can lay my tools in there while under trucks. It's like a creeper for my tools. Keeps #### off the ground an out your way
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Removing is the easy part...I like threaded rods into bell housing to help guide when reinstalling. Don't skimp on clutch, or rear main while it's out out it back right. If you don't have a jack it can be done with pipe on the frame and a chain and roll it on back if you are jut changing clutch, but I don't advise that method, it's a have to case. Other than that it's more work than it is complicated for sure.
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Unless your name is Arnold Swartzenegger, get some help, it weighs a ton. If you are putting a clutch in, go with a disc(s) with no springs (severe duty). It may be a little rougher engaging but it lasts a lot longer. I put 3 clutches in my trucks, and everytime those springs broke. Went with a severe duty, problem solved.
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put one them easy pedal pressure plate in it,..lot smoother engaging an last just as long as a severe duty one will...
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Make sure you put the plates in the right way if you install new or the plates in facing the same way they came out. I know a guy that burnt up a flywheel almost instantly cause he had them flipped
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If it's got a nodal clutch housing with your rear engine mounts located there, and the mounting cap bolts are rust welded. That'll make you so happy, you could almost ####, at times.
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Good time to replace the input shaft pilot bearing. They're cheap, and if it goes later on, guess what, out comes the trans again.
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