How do these numbers look?

The first time you change the oil you want to check the oil level, many of these units came with the wrong dipstick and took 53 liters instead of 36 liters total. The CAC is what I would check for leaks, and cleanleness. the fuel preasure, and return fuel for air.
You want to get a printout of the cost of repairs from Cat and use that as a bargaining point, You will be paying for, or doing a complete tear down of everything but the long block. You would want to buy a complete rebuild engine gasket kit, much cheaper overall, you have to price in new motor mounts front and back, also a pilot bearing, belts, and hoses.
Just a thought!

 

HOLY HELL IN A BASKET OF FRUIT, THOSE ARE THE FLATTEST CURVES I HAVE EVER!

What kind of smoothing did they do to that graph?

Are you sure its not electric?

That air pump should be listed in the thesaurus under a synonym for linear.

 

I think the torque is that flat because they graphed RPM vs RPM from a split second later instead of tq vs rpm. Like I said in your other thread, they screwed up that dyno -- I'd ask for a retest. You can't have 400hp and 2135ft-lbs at 2100rpm on the same run, it is physically impossible.

If you have 2135 ft-lbs @ 1950rpm, you're making 800 horsepower... But if you have 400 hp @ 1950rpm, you're only making 1075 ft-lb of torque.

 

I'm wondering when was the last time they had their equipment checked and calibrated.

I dyno'ed a truck I was going to buy, I passed on it because of the numbers came out really bad. Found out the guy who bought it was someone I knew from my LS days, I called him up to ask him why he bought it, He said because it was a great deal, he took it to his favorite shop and told me the numbers from his test .... they were way way way different than mine.

 

I have a 475 2008 c15 with a very mild tune. I got 412 to the ground. My torque numbers were odd as well and when I asked them he said they don't input information for torque numbers, he said it would take too long to put in all the proper info and as well they would need a computer system that costs 20k.

I called 3 other dyno shops and asked and none of them had the computer setup for torque, said it's a waste of money.

 

Plug off the vacuum line from the bottom of the Turbo, then try. Should add 20 lb of boost but if you don't reset it, the Electronic will kick the fuel off at 40.1 in. boost. Call Pittsburgh Power and talk to a tech there. The only thing I can think of is, you have a really tight engine with less than 50K mi on it. That's when my E model started running right.