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adding a pusher axle to my new truck

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Ezrider_48501, Nov 25, 2014.

Page 1 of 4
  1. Nov 25, 2014 #1
    Ezrider_48501

    Ezrider_48501 Road Train Member

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    bismarck, nd
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    part of my reason for getting a new truck was wanting a tri-axle the truck that i bought did not already have one but has plenty of room. I have a little time at the moment and i was checking pricing at a few places on pusher axle's when i stopped at one place that they say we got a used one sitting out back $1000 its all yours. so i go look it over. seems pretty decent, its a heavier style than i was really looking for but i figured at saving nearly 4k over a new one for one that was two years old pulled off a wreck and everything seems good and tight on it with good breaks complete drum to drum, steerable air up down. so i bought it.

    not sure if i will have any questions or not so far all i have done is got the pusher to the shop got it unloaded and slid it under the truck. so far the biggest issue i see is going to be re-mounting the exhaust after installing the pusher. the stack bracket is going to be in kinda a bad place ill have to figure that out. tomorrow I'm going to try to get everything off the truck that's going to be in the way get the pusher up on the frame and go from there.

    2014-11-25 17.57.31.jpg

    2014-11-25 17.57.49.jpg
     
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 25, 2014
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 25, 2014
    #1
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  3. Nov 26, 2014 #2
    The Challenger

    The Challenger Kinghunter

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    Subscribed. Been interested in seeing someone do it and seeing how the results are.

    KH
     
    The Challenger, Nov 26, 2014
    The Challenger, Nov 26, 2014
    #2
  4. Nov 26, 2014 #3
    SAR

    SAR Road Train Member

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    I added a link high steer self steer pusher axle on my 06 pete that is in my avatar. It is a duralift 13,500 lbs capacity rating. I went with this style pusher cause I didn't have much room to work with. I have dual 150 gal tanks and truck is 275 wb. I had to slide the tanks ahead 4 inches to make more room. My truck has the 4 staps holding each tank so I took both tanks off and moved each bracket forward 4 inches on the frame which consumed a majority of my time doing that project.
    Just make sure where you want to mount it to the frame and measure twice, drill once. I used bit reamers to get the hole size I wanted on the frame. I wished I had access to a magnetic drill press to make sure each hole was dead on where I wanted it but didn't have one. I drilled each hole by hand and It all matched up to the pusher bracket.

    I hope yours is pre-plumbed which makes it easier to hook up. All I had to do was plumb into the main supply line that ran to the rear of the truck. I mounted a switch in the cab so I can lift/lower it. Mine came with a small box that housed the air regulator and air gauge. I mounted that behind the sleeper. Some people mount theirs inside the sleeper but you cant have it within reach of you to adjust the dial, DOT frowns on that.
    If you travel off road much I would add fenders to it. I added some on mine but made the mistake on not tilting in more toward the back of wheel because I notice it throws dirt/snow on the front of my trailer.

    I can't tell by your pictures if yours is a link high steer or a watson chalin but they all look kind of similar. Just take your time and you'll be happy with the outcome. I like mine cause I can gross some more and makes the truck ride smoother loaded. It probably added around 1000 lbs to the truck by the time you add fenders and rims and tires. Good luck with your project. You will like the end result.
     
    SAR, Nov 26, 2014
    SAR, Nov 26, 2014
    #3
    t800kwopper Thanks this.
  5. Nov 26, 2014 #4
    Ezrider_48501

    Ezrider_48501 Road Train Member

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    bismarck, nd
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    well i made progress today, not as much as i had hoped but progress none the less. i was planning to install it on 4' center ended up moving it to 4'3" just because it was going to fit a little better there. rooms not to much of a issue the bigger issue is things that are needing to share bolt holes with the pusher. iv got it up on the frame and enough bolts bolts in to hold it in place about half the bolt holes drilled. im doing it the same way you did with a hand drill a mag drill press would be a godsent on this job.

    it did not come pre plumbed. so i will have to do all that, ill need to get a control valve as well. plumping the air bags should be pretty straight forward. for the service breaks do you tap into the drive axle service breaks?

    2014-11-26 15.12.29.jpg

    2014-11-26 15.12.50.jpg

    obviously not the rims or tires im going to be running on the pusher just stuck a tire that was near by on it to see how things were looking i don't think anyone would actually run 11r24.5's on there pusher...lol

    2014-11-26 15.14.55.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2014
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 26, 2014
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 26, 2014
    #4
  7. Nov 26, 2014 #5
    j_martell

    j_martell Light Load Member

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    Jun 12, 2014
    Centre Wellington, Ontario
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    The brakes should be tied in with a relay that only let's them operate when then axle is down. I don't know the specifics, but that's how most operate.....
     
    j_martell, Nov 26, 2014
    j_martell, Nov 26, 2014
    #5
  8. Nov 26, 2014 #6
    Ezrider_48501

    Ezrider_48501 Road Train Member

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    bismarck, nd
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    i believe every pusher axle truck iv ever drove including factory installed pushers the breaks still would apply even when the pusher was lifted it just didnt do anything because the tires are likely already stopped and off the ground. i know for sure one of them if you lifted the pusher when you were pulling into a place where you were going to have to make a tight maneuver or you knew you were going to have to back ect but you lift it while your still driving forward and so the tires are up in the air still spinning as soon as you would tap the break pedal they would stop. i don't have a control valve for it in front of me yet. so im not sure if the service breaks run threw the control or not. even if the service breaks come threw the control it still has to get a signal somewhere.
     
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 26, 2014
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 26, 2014
    #6
    Caterpillar Cowboy Thanks this.
  9. Nov 26, 2014 #7
    j_martell

    j_martell Light Load Member

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    Centre Wellington, Ontario
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    Not one truck I've run with a lift or tag had operational brakes unless the axle was on the ground.....just saying. :). Sorry I can't be of more help

    Tying into the service brakes on either drive axles should work....

    You are a member on another forum I'm on too EZ.......
     
    j_martell, Nov 26, 2014
    j_martell, Nov 26, 2014
    #7
  10. Nov 26, 2014 #8
    Hurricane69

    Hurricane69 Road Train Member

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    Brake comes from your tandems. I did like the previous and put in a air valve so the brakes only work when their is pressure to the down bags. Saves flat spotting tires. Also have a dump valve. Mine isn't steerable....didn't want one....they changed the law so we can lift them for corners.
     
    Hurricane69, Nov 26, 2014
    Hurricane69, Nov 26, 2014
    #8
  11. Nov 26, 2014 #9
    j_martell

    j_martell Light Load Member

    284
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    Jun 12, 2014
    Centre Wellington, Ontario
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    Not here....If i get caught with it in the air....im a tandem and wicked overweight.....just dump enough I can turn lol....glad I'm moving to a tandem week after next, one less thing to do :)
     
    j_martell, Nov 26, 2014
    j_martell, Nov 26, 2014
    #9
  12. Nov 26, 2014 #10
    Ezrider_48501

    Ezrider_48501 Road Train Member

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    Apr 2, 2011
    bismarck, nd
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    bigmacktrucks.com
     
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 26, 2014
    Ezrider_48501, Nov 26, 2014
    #10
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