cummins big cam 4 cpl:749 beige paint NTC315 hot rodding questions. low flow to high

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Mountainmover, Mar 1, 2015.

  1. Mountainmover

    Mountainmover Bobtail Member

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    Feb 24, 2015
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    1986 Freightliner FLC120. Set forward axle.
    Engine: Cummins NTC315
    Beige paint on engine.
    Green pain on engine heads.
    Engine has Jake Brake.


    Single turbo.


    History of truck. Purchased this truck from a friend years ago. The truck had been wrecked. Cab was bent. We replaced cab. The story of that truck is that it had a fresh overhaul before the wreck. The engine was supposedly turned up to a 400 horsepower setting at the shop that performed the overhaul.
    Truck runs pretty decent. I does, in fact, seem to to run slightly better than 315 horsepower. We use this truck as a lowboy truck for our heavy equipment business.


    The only trouble we have had with truck was a few cooling issues due to radiator. We had the radiator rebuilt with a new core. Engine does not run hot now.


    I am pretty sure that it was put back as a low flow cooling system if my memory serves me correctly.


    The truck is sentimental as my father is ill and we bought this truck together. I am aware that this is not a desirable truck as for example; Peterbilt and Kenworth classic style trucks.


    The truck runs good, but I need more power because I haul in the mountains of Northeast Georgia. I need to be able to stay ahead of traffic so as to when I swing to make a turn into a side road or driveway, traffic is now backed up behind me and in a panic to pass me on the inside when swinging wide to make a turn in. Power in my area is actually needed for safety. Also, I pull heavy loads and power is necessary.


    The truck is paid for. I do not drive the truck except for when moving between jobs. I do not need a new truck and I do not need a new payment. I can use the truck as I am fixing it up.


    The engine plate ID tag is very hard to read due to corrosion on the aluminum tag. After taking a picture of the tag, Pittsburgh power replied via email saying that it was a CPL 749 engine.


    I occasionally drive my friends Peterbilt trucks which have 6nz Cat engines with 18 speeds, pdi big hoss turbos, Pittsburgh power boxes, and PDI ECM computers. They are absolute beasts. That kind of power is exactly what I need in my truck.


    I realize, someone is going to say.....just go buy a truck with a 6nz engine. Well, I do not want truck payments. Can I get a pretty close power output from my truck?


    I do not want my truck to be a grenade with fuel only power that forces me to baby it and back out of it on hills and never allow others to drive it. I know that I could probably put a button in it and get lots of fuel and roll coal...but I want to do it right.


    I would like to start with things that are foundation based modifications that allow me to. Build the power up as I can afford it.
    Does my engine have the liners with the recessed lip in the block that is able to withstand more boost and heat? Or, do I need to to be done via a mobile machine shop and new pistons and liners?
    If that is too much expense, what is a realistic setup to use on my truck? Or should I put that investment into it?
    What is the mvp system that Pittsburgh power sells? Any pictures of it? Do I have to manually turn on the mvp system as I accelerate?


    Will twin turbos help my truck? Do I need an intercooler system from in front of my radiator? Where can I find that setup at a junk yard?


    Does anyone have the detail parts, part numbers, and instructions to convert my truck over to high flow cooling?
    Do I need a harmonic balancer?
    Injectors?
    Lower compression Teflon coated Pistons?
    Twin turbos?


    Does anyone make a pyro gauge that has an alert when temps get over the limit? Is their a pyro system that cuts the fuel back?
    Is my engine an stp timing engine?


    And, in the end....what is the best cheapest engine I could look for in a junk yard that makes the best foundation for a modifiable motor that makes awesome power?
    Fuel mileage is kinda....kinda important in case I want to make a long haul occasionally. But, it is not the priority as long as it is within reason.


    I do not want to use the truck for truck pulls. I want solid power that is dominate to most other trucks on the road.


    Has anyone seen that Freightliner FLD heavy hail truck on YouTube that has the mvp system with. Twin turbos that puts out 800 horsepower? It has dual transmissions. Halas heavy transport? It is a red truck. Can I do that with my truck?


    Thanks. Advice is appreciated.
     
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  3. PackRatTDI

    PackRatTDI Licensed to Ill

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    That big cam Cummins is a good start for building the perfect beast.

    I'd ask the guys at Pittsburgh power. They seen to be the experts on that engine.

    The holy grail would be finding a Cummins K block that somebody doesn't want, lol.
     
  4. OLDSKOOLERnWV

    OLDSKOOLERnWV Captain Redbeard

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    To make a "true" 400 out of it you would need to change the Pistons if my memory is correct. It's a shame that some older shade tree mechanics that could build it the right way are still out there, most don't have computers though. There is some good heads here on the forum, I'm sure you'll gain some good input.
     
  5. Mountainmover

    Mountainmover Bobtail Member

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    Feb 24, 2015
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    Thanks for the response guys.
    this engine isn't an m11 or formula is it???

    supposedly....when it was rebuilt....they did change pistons and turbo but you know how people can lie.... But they were my friends and only sold it because the cab was bent in accident....

    so so this engine is a good platform?

    does this have the chamfered liners tops that don't push the liners out when the fuel is turned up?

    i wonder if when switching to high flow cooling I could find a 3406 cat radiator and inter cooler and make it intercooled in the process? How can I do that?
     
  6. PackRatTDI

    PackRatTDI Licensed to Ill

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    Nah, an M11 is smaller than the N block. I don't think the M11 came out until the late 80's/early 90s.

    A formula engine would have a formula decal on the aftercooler. If not present, most likely not a formula. Besides from what I've gathered, the Formula engines were the last of the big cam engines in the late 80's before the NTC was retooled and released as the N14.

    I bet they did go ahead and change the pistons. Would seem to be the perfect opportunity to change to 400 pistons since the engine is already in pieces.
     
  7. Mountainmover

    Mountainmover Bobtail Member

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    Feb 24, 2015
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    Thanks for the replies. So I'm still wondering what kind of engine setup I have. If I have the liners that are recessed or champhered (I guess that's the word) that can withstand performance. My heads are green and that's strange but I assume its because they were jake brake heads added later? Is their a quality difference if these are aftermarket? Will that matter?

    also, my truck has an unidentifiable turbo on it. The numbers makes no sense. Definitely not stock. How can a person determine the style of turbo and specs?

    also, how can I determine my style of injectors? How hard are they to remove? Once removed....do inflow bench them to get the specs? What does that cost?

    ive heard I can use an n14 manifold to change my motor to air to air cooling???

    where can I get the plumbing to make this work?

    And a a radiator that's high flow....
    and....no one will come off with the parts and part numbers to change to high flow cooling!

    Id love to make this thing pull like a modern truck on pdi or Pittsburg steroids! Lol.
     
  8. SmokinCAT

    SmokinCAT Road Train Member

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    Funny thing about that red truck is that there is no information to back up what they claim, where are the dyno sheets, it's a bold claim to say to have added 325hp to an engine without any proof.

    A single turbo will handle as much as the engine will stand with the correct one.

    What size hoses connect the engine to the radiator?
     
  9. bubbanbrenda

    bubbanbrenda Road Train Member

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    Pittsburgh Power is one of the best places to have these motors worked on if you are not able to do it yourself. There are several "old school" guys around here that can make them absolutely scream. The exact recipe depends entirely on your exact expectations and more importantly the size of your wallet. All of the damage control equipment you asked about is exactly why the electronic motor was born. A CAC will need to be fabricated, an EGT monitoring system from the drag racing world could be adapted to give you an audio/visual warning, but since the motor in question's fuel system is mechanically controlled your EGT system CANNOT be set to cut the fuel BACK it can however be set to cut OFF the ignition, however I'm pretty sure completely killing a motor in a hard pull with the throttle wide open and the exhaust at 1000* while drag racing a 379 up Mont Eagle is going to be catastrophic. With mechanical motors its all or none, Twin turbo's are not very reliable in a road truck situation in my opinion, however Holset makes some monsterous turbo's, IF the rest of the truck is set up right. Again if you cant do it yourself PP is a pretty safe bet. The size of your wallet is directly proportional to how well it runs, you can run circles around any 6NZ if you set it up right. Unless the 6NZ you drove was highly and I mean highly modified, then you have no idea what a beast is,(please do not be offended by that I mean no disrespect I swear). If you are planning on letting others drive it they will burn it down if they have never drove a hot mechanical truck, that I can promise you. The old mechanical motors are very inefficient and quirky but make butt loads of power when tuned and driven correctly. But letting anyone else drive it would not be a very good idea in my opinion.
     
  10. Mountainmover

    Mountainmover Bobtail Member

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    Understood bunnanbrenda!
    What is a CAC? Is that something to do with air intercooled?

    would my engine need to have the mvp system? Or is that for big cam 3 and below. I can't seem to find a picture or price for an mvp system.

    i understand about the mechanical side. But you would think that someone would make an EGT gauge that flashes and makes a warning sound !!!!

    i have only used my truck as a lowboy in the past 10 years or more. Local moves. Probably havent put 5000 miles on it since buying it after the overhaul and wreck it had before buying it.

    i guess I'd have more problems with age and decay than worn metal parts in motor. Dry rotted gaskets.....corrosion......

    but it its a long hood truck and I recently ordered a big chrome shop stainless grill and surround and thought....I'll pretty this thing up!

    I like the idea of no truck payments!! It's old but its a classic. Freightliner is kinda rattley and cheap but still a cool old truck.
    it would look cool to our pull new cat 6nz trucks and the newer def trucks with an old truck.

    inactially need the power because i use it in the mountains and it sux to have a Dozer on the back on a hill with cara lined up behind me for miles...and they get so anxious that when I finally turn off the road and I swing wide to turn...the start passing and driving isn't my swinging turn !!! Make sense??

    I I need to stay up and ahead of traffic to get free to make my turn.
     
  11. Cetane+

    Cetane+ Road Train Member

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    CAC= Chassis mounted Air Cooler
     
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