help setting celect injectors

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by AUSSIE DAVE, Jul 31, 2010.

  1. AUSSIE DAVE

    AUSSIE DAVE Road Train Member

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    Cummins M11 celect plus engine, hi can someone please explain how to set the injectors, the workshop manual can be interprated in two ways, I think that the correct method is to turn the bolt until it is finger tight and hard up, then back off two flats, and then tighten the lock nut. is this correct? or do you continue past the point of finger tight tightening the bolt with a spanner (several more turns pushing the injector plunger down) until it just bottoms out, and then back off two flats ? hope this makes sense.
     
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  3. Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    The injector is under spring tension, you won't be able to turn it by finger. Just use a wrench. I have a stubby wrench so I can fell it bottom out better. A long wrench gives you too much leverage and makes it hard to feel. You can use a long wrench and just hold it closer to the open end. When I can feel it bottom out it is kinda a soft feeling, it is hard to pin point the exact spot so I will go back and forth a few times till I am confident of the best spot when it is bottomed out. Then back off two flats and tighten the jam nut.
    ***Here is a major tip*** Before you start, or at least before the rocker cover get put back on, take some penetrating spray oil like WD40 or some thing better and spray the hell out the injectors through the spring area where the plunger goes into the injector body. If you don't do this there is a good chance the injector will get stuck in carbon build-up when you adjust it and cause a miss when you start the engine.
     
  4. AUSSIE DAVE

    AUSSIE DAVE Road Train Member

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    Thanks for the tip, can you please confirm the following - So i have to screw down the bolt makeing the injector spring compress, and keep turning it until i feel the plunger bottom out, and then back off two flats and lock it off with the jam nut. (so i have to preload the injector spring yes?) just seems strange that the injector spring should be under constant compression. and not like valve springs were the spring is not under constant compression.

     
  5. AUSSIE DAVE

    AUSSIE DAVE Road Train Member

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    I found the answer here it is for anyone else that is interested.. you can see below that they talk about lash "Two flats will provide 0.56 mm [0.022 in] lash. " therefore you tighten bolt hand tight until the injector pluger bottoms out on the rocker lever, then back off two flats and then lock off the jam nut.

    Tighten the adjusting screw on the injector rocker lever until the timing plunger just touches bottom.

    Back out the adjusting screw on the injector rocker lever two flats (120 degrees).
    Two flats will provide 0.56 mm [0.022 in] lash. The specification is 0.50 to 0.74 mm [0.020 to 0.029 in] lash.


    Hold the adjusting screw and tighten the lock nut.
     
  6. AUSSIE DAVE

    AUSSIE DAVE Road Train Member

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    I found the answer, thanks for your input. for anyone that is interested, here is what you do, turn the injector adjustment bolt by hand until it bottoms out on the rocker level (e.g. finger / hand tight) then back off two flats, then lock off the jam / lock nut. doing this allows for the correct amount of lash. P.S once I finally realised that the workshop manual states that the lash specs are XXX it accured to me that the only way to have lash is to set the inject in this manner.
     
  7. AUSSIE DAVE

    AUSSIE DAVE Road Train Member

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    I got a cheat sheet direct from Cummins today - that states what I previosly found "turn the injector adjustment bolt finger tight then back off two flats, then lock off the jam / lock nut.
     
  8. Rnz520

    Rnz520 Bobtail Member

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    Yea I just set the valves on an ISM last week and thats how its done. Very simple, easier done with a stubby wrench as previously mentioned.
    How did your In-Frame come along?
     
    AUSSIE DAVE Thanks this.
  9. AUSSIE DAVE

    AUSSIE DAVE Road Train Member

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    Thanks for the info greatly appreciated! The inframe has been long but rewarding so far everything is good, I am so close to starting her up, just have external plumbing to finish (raditor, fuel lines, air intake, wireing, etc) and need to buy some diesel, pull fuel pump off and install new PVC cog, charge the batteries, and install ECM, prime fuel pump & oil, etc then good to test run. looking at next weekend as a start-up day.

     
  10. Rnz520

    Rnz520 Bobtail Member

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    that is good to hear, hopefully she starts right up with no problems and runs strong for a while too.
     
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